Lewes in East Sussex is the perfect day trip from London. Just an hour away by train, you’ll find a town which is infinitely more picturesque than neighbouring Brighton and more accessible than the Cotswolds but with green rolling countryside and historic buildings. Moreover, Lewes is a stone’s throw from the sea at Seaford and near many interesting villages with a Bloomsbury Set connection.
Lewes – A Memorable Day Trip
Lewes, a few decades ago, used to be a pretty but dull, small town with a decidedly lefty vibe. It was home to bearded Sussex University academics who couldn’t face bumping into their Brighton based students while drinking at their local.
However, in recent years Lewes has started to develop a Woodstock buzz with pavement cafes, craft galleries and artisan food shops with its beating heart in the south of the town around the picturesque Harvey’s Brewery.
Lewes Antique Emporiums
Lewes is jam packed with antique emporiums where numerous dealers trade out of a single outlet. Here you will find a genuine English souvenirs like Victorian embroidered English napkins, table cloths, cut glassware, bone handled cutlery, perfume bottles, vases and Sixties toys. Best of all there is no London, or posh store, mark up.
The Flint Owl Bakery Artisan Bakery
Enter the Flint Owl Bakery and you will be dazzled by dozens of freshly baked cakes; each one is a delectable work of art. Popular choices are the fruit and cream meringues and carrot cake. Their selections change daily. At lunchtime you will find quiches and rustic bean salads, artisan toasted sandwiches, home-made lasagne and meaty sausage rolls. On a sunny day, there is nothing more perfect than having lunch in the rear garden, sipping wine and chatting to friends.
The Needlemakers Craft Hub
The Needlemakers is an artistic hub just behind the high street housing dozens of craft shops. You’ll find quirky pottery, vintage finds, books, unique clothing, hand-made jewellery, speciality foods and a vegan café.
Thrifting in Lewes Charity Shops
Thrifting in the half a dozen charity shops is also a great sport…you’ll have a fun few hours rifling through clothes, books and knick-knacks.
Oxfam has the best books and the worst clothes!
Lewes Castle – A Norman Ruin
If schlepping up Castle Hill wasn’t enough exercise, you could climb yet further to the top of Lewes Castle. This Norman castle was built after the Battle of Hastings by William the Conqueror’s supporters.
As you’d expect the castle is now a crumbing ruin but you can enjoy its beautiful gardens which are the perfect place for a picnic.
The Bull House – Home to Thomas Paine
Thomas Paine famed for writing the Rights of Man lived at Bull House at the top of Lewes High Street from 1768 – 1774 and he married the landlord’s daughter. It seems that Lewes had an anarchist and alternative vibe even those days.
The Rights of Man Pub
The Rights of Man pub is named after Thomas Paine’s famous book and almost opposite the Bull’s Head in the High Street is this atmospheric pub. It comes into its own in the evening with several rooms dedicated to dining with dark wood panelling and a small but perfectly executed menu.
“This stylish pub, whose name reflects the fact that Thomas Paine once called Lewes home, is one of the best places to pair local Harvey’s ale with well executed food, albeit with a definite Continental lean. Wood panelling, art deco lighting and a summer terrace makes things feel a long way from the average British boozer”
Lonely Planet
Balmy, Beachy Seaford
The sea with a pebble beach is within a short drive from Lewes. Seaford is a traditional seaside resort with a beach shack café serving drinks and snacks. More energetic types can walk along its pretty white cliffs. The rest of us can breathe in the sea air and marvel at the waves and seagulls while sipping strong English breakfast tea.
Sitting on the beach trestle tables is particularly enjoyable early in the morning on a Summer’s day where locals gather and chat before the holidaymakers arrive.
Artistic Decadence at Charleston House
Charleston was the rented home of the Bloomsbury Set a group of artists, historians, writers and thinkers who used the house as their wartime refuge.
It is where the homosexual Duncan Grant had an affair with the artist Vanessa Bell. Her husband the art historian Clive Bell would visit frequently from London and the economist (and Duncan Grant’s lover) John Maynard Keynes had his own room.
“They lived in squares, painted in circles and loved in triangles”
Dorothy Parker
Inside the house you can marvel at their unique naive pottery and wall decorations.
The garden at the rear of the house is exquisitely planted in its original style – a riot of clashing colours with plants tightly amassed and offset by Vanessa Bell’s mosaics.
There is a café serving huge slabs of home-made cake and a Summer arts festival.
Their volunteer tour guides are particularly fun to talk to – they are as an eclectic bunch of Bohemians as the original inhabitants.
Village Pubs and Bloomsbury Graves in Firle
Firle village is the final resting place of the Bloomsbury Set…the graves of Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant and her husband, Clive Bell can be found in the local church.
When Clive Bell used to visit his wife at Charleston he used to stay here the Ram Inn.
The Ram Inn is still plying a vigorous trade and is a popular dinner spot for Lewes locals. You may also enjoy their breakfast menu which is served until 11am. You’ll find everything from yoghurt, berries and granola to poached eggs with avocado on toast and of course the full English.
On a rainy day, you can park yourself inside its black painted interior with a crackling fire
And in the summer months you can enjoy the outside terrace which overlooks its picturesque high street.
Before you leave take a stroll through the village to marvel at the quaint cottages many of which have garden produce being sold on trestle tables outside accompanied by an honesty box to leave some change.
If you miss breakfast at the Ram Inn there is an amazing mobile cafe on the main road before the turn off that does bacon and egg sandwiches and cappuccino. You can sit on a faux sheepskin covered stool at the side of the van and tuck into your butty while enjoying the country views.
Bloomsbury War Murals at Berwick Church
Berwick Church is home to the original war murals painted by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant making this is a perfect next stop if you are on a Bloomsbury Set pilgrimage. These paintings were commissioned by Bishop Bell in 1941 and are the only example of a traditional village church being decorated by renowned contemporary artists. The murals are now showing signs of flaking and a restoration appeal is currently underway.
Chocolate Box Alfriston with its British Winery
Alfriston is the quintessential Sussex Village. Its high street has beautiful period houses bedecked with plants and interlaced with small private shops…a book shop, cards, a vintage clothes shop with delightful period costume jewellery and the 15th century The Star Inn. This has recently been acquired by the Polizzi family (Alex Polizzi of the TV Hotel Inspector fame) with its legendary fastidious standards.
If you are planning a romantic weekend there is no finer village to take your beloved to.
The Alfriston car parks start filling up as the hour of afternoon tea approaches. The Singing Kettle which overlooks the village square, has sweet and savoury scones and delicious home-made cakes. Try and grab one their outside tables and you can watch the world go by.
Or if you are into fine dining and wine tasting, you can visit the local Rathfinny Wine Estate and sample their world class sparkling wines while taking in the views out over the vineyards.
The Tasting Room is open for two and three course lunches from Wednesday to Sunday. Their menu changes weekly according the produce in season.
Beddingham – A Walkers and Cyclists Paradise
If you are a hiker, walker or cyclist there is no better base to explore Lewes and the South Downs way than the YHA at Beddingham. Converted from farm buildings, YHA hostel had a multi-million pound restoration before opened by the Queen. The café is idyllic with views of the rolling South Downs. And it is convivial. In the evening grab a bottle of modestly priced wine from the cafe and go to the farm house lounge where you will make new friends with the most fascinating people.
Trains to Lewes
Trains run from London Victoria to Lewes and take approximately an hour.
There is a train from Lewes to Beddingham (for the YHA) and Seaford. Check the timetables.
You can purchase tickets in advance from the Trainline.
Driving to Lewes
If you are driving it will take 1.45 mins to 2.15 mins to drive from London and Seaford, Firle, Berwick Alfriston and Charleston are all within a 15-20 minute drive. There’s free parking in Firle, Charleston and on Seaford seafront with paid parking in Alfriston and Lewes.
If you enjoy green and wooded areas you may want to visit Richmond Park in London.
