ENO La traviata – Minimal Staging Showcases Powerful Performances

ENO La traviata

ENO La traviata Review – 28 October 2023 by Maxine Morse

The ENO’s La traviata has the feel of a Parisian 1920’s nightclub, enveloped in blacks and reds, with a cast in tuxedos and bob haircuts. The pared down staging puts the focus firmly on stand-out vocals, intense dramatic sequences and beautifully controlled conducting.

We are invited on a two-hour rollercoaster, taking a stomach-churning lurch to the highs of Violetta’s parties, where her inebriated frenemies are willing her downfall.  Then there is a slow dip into her life in the country while she pursues true love before our carriage goes through a dark tunnel when she rejects her lover before we reach a slithering halt in her failing health and death.

If you are accustomed to the many fin de siècle productions of La Traviata, with their stately homes and tulle ballgowns, you may find Johannes Leiacker’s set a challenge. Almost devoid of props and scenery, layers of red velvet curtains are tugged, drawn and pulled to create the various scene changes.

Minimalist staging in ENO La Traviata © Belinda Jiao
Minimalist staging in ENO La Traviata © Belinda Jiao

The delicious period feel is largely down to the chorus direction with its joyful goading and clenching of wine glasses at the party to the casino where the chorus purposefully stride across the stage and toss playing cards – minimalist but immensely effective.

Exquisite Chorus Direction in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao
Exquisite Chorus Direction in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao

The revival director, Ruth Knight gets to the heart of Verdi’s preoccupation with realism in her characterisation of the principal part. Violetta is not the archetypical fallen woman but an embodiment of mystique, power and angst brought down by her relationships with inferior, impotent men and seen through the narrow prism of societal constraints.

Nicole Chevalier brings strength to the role of Violetta with her glorious tsunami of raw emotions. By her final aria Addio del passato (‘It’s over, all those memories full of laughter’) she has lost her wig and her soulful lament is one that will haunt the audience long after the opera is over.

The antithesis of Violetta is her lover, Alfredo Germont (Jose Simerilla Romero). This beige-cardiganed, socially-awkward bookworm conveys all the personality of damp cardboard. Romero rises perfectly to this challenge by first seducing us with his febrile veneration of love and then blasting us with forceful vocals as he blames Violetta for shaming him.

Completing this dark triad is Alfredo Germont’s father. Giorgio Germont performed by Roland Wood is convincing in his display of oily, bourgeois respectability as he coaxes and cajoles Violetta to leave his son in order to protect the family’s reputation.

Nicole Chevalier as Violetta in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao
Nicole Chevalier as Violetta in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao

In the final scene, the supporting performers enter from the rear of the stalls and approach the stage to look on Violetta’s demise as if from the audience perspective – each one exuding a powerful  and almost frozen  presence.

Verdi’s score sparkles under the baton of Richard Farnes from the energy of brindisi with its insistent rhythms to the slower and perfectly controlled movements of the final death scene.

Richard Barnes conductor sparkles in ENO la traviata © Belinda Jiao
Richard Barnes conductor sparkles in ENO la traviata © Belinda Jiao

The director’s decision to forego an interval has the effect of asking the audience to drink a triple shot of absinthe…performing La traviata without a pause adds not only to the psychological intensity but also to the audience’s physiological discomfort. And when it ended no one leapt for the doors; instead, thundering applause and foot stamping brought the house down.

 


Maxine Morse

Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.

Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.


UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON
La traviata at the English National Opera.
Nicole Chevalier as Violetta, Jose Simerilla Romero as Alfredo and Roland Wood as Giorgio Germont in the Peter Konwitschny production of Verdi’s La traviata continuing the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the London Colosseum. The opening night for ENO’s La traviata is on the 23 October with performances up until the 12th November.

 

ENO Iolanthe – Superb Spectacle, Slapstick, Satire and Staging

ENO Iolanthe 2023

ENO Iolanthe Review – 10 October 2023 by Maxine Morse

 

If ENO’s Iolanthe were a cake it would be a Unicorn cake with a deep buttercream icing and liberally covered with edible glitter and hundreds and thousands with a surprising layer of tongue tingling popping candy.

 

The director Cal McCrystal’s hallmarks are retro spectacle and masterly comic timing with splashes of whimsy and political satire. When combined with the unique talents of conductor Chris Hopkins, who takes a precision aim at delivering musical oomph, and Paul Brown, the Dior of costume and set design, the overall effect is nothing but a full-on sugar rush.

 

I am not a big fan of Gilbert and Sullivan’s prologues but Clive Mantle as Captain Shaw fluffed the audience with a good poking of fun at the opera going classes and a portent of fire-fighting silliness.

Clive Mantle, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Clive Mantle, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

The late Paul Brown’s set resembles a 1950’s children’s book with its die cut wing and backdrops. The opera’s pièce de resistance is a life size steam locomotive which bursts through as if straight out of the comic golden age, unloading its cargo of crown and gown clad peers. Such was the stunning effect that I was sitting next to a world-weary television personality who broke the Coliseum’s strict ‘no photography’ rule and whipped his phone out to take a sneaky snap. Do not try this yourself!

Ruairi Bowen, Ben McAteer, ENO Chrous, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Ruairi Bowen, Ben McAteer, ENO Chrous, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

Iolanthe has been banished from the fairy world for getting married to a mortal. Her son, a lowly Arcadian shepherd, falls in love with the equally vacuous, toile costumed Arcadian shepherdess, Phyllis. As ward of the chancery, she needs the permission of the Lord Chancellor to wed. Unfortunately, every dull, titled, money and status obsessed peer of the realm, including her guardian, is keen to wed her. Will she be allowed to marry her heart’s desire, or is she condemned to wed one of her less suited suitors? And what about those cute fairies who are besotted with those same dullards? Will they be allowed to live a life of wedded bliss or be condemned to death? We shall see…

Marcus Farnsworth, Ellie Laugharne, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Marcus Farnsworth, Ellie Laugharne, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

 

Strephon (Marcus Farnsworth) the Arcadian shepherd has a touch of David Walliams about him, slightly obtuse and ditzy, a personality twin to the all-too-perfect Phyllis (Ellie Laugharne). Both carry the audience with their charming comical antics and deliberations.

John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor is a Gilbert and Sullivan stalwart. He excelled as Captain Corcoran in the ENO’s 2021/22 HMS Pinafore and is hot off the Opera Holland Park stage as Ruddigore’s Sir Despard Murgatroyd. Savournin, a confident performer with a conversational singing style, made a fast paced word salad of his tongue twisting Chancellor’s Nightmare.

John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor © Craig Fuller
John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor 2023 © Craig Fuller

 

Ruairi Bowen  as Earl Tolloller is a delight to watch as he delivers the crispest vocals of the night with masterly Victorian mannerisms.

Ruairi Bowen, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Ruairi Bowen, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

The off libretto popping candy involved pooping horses, sheep ferried about by stage hands blinded by their camouflage and a shaggy-haired, partying Boris accompanied by a permanently surprised and gormless Michael Gove. A pot shot is taken at Nadine Dorries, who is responsible for the ENO’s current funding crisis, as she hilariously tries to break back in to the Houses of Parliament. And we loved the analogy of the Lord Chancellor having a terrifying nightmare that he had to move the Palace of Westminster to the frozen north as part of the government’s levelling up agenda. Perfect!

 

Did the Lord Chancellor’s page make it out of the performance physically unscathed?  He is bounced from place to place – falling, being clobbered and then dropped from a great height.  Give the marvellous Adam Bown his own one-man comedy show.

 


Please check out our other reviews and if you are new to opera you may find these tips useful for your first visit.


 

The ENO’s Iolanthe fairy world is a colourful pot pourri. Each fairy costume has been painstakingly designed to match the fairy’s unique personality – be that sexy and sultry, rotund and matronly or fun and impish. And the fairies stole our hearts. Petra Massey’s zip wire punching aerial antics have the charm of a Renaissance cherub. Bethan Langford as Leila exudes demure dimple-poking sweetness. The metal-clad, Wagneresque Queen of the Fairies, Catherine Wyn-Rogers, electrifies with a powerful performance embodying matriarchal warmth and strength. Samantha Price as Iolanthe brings her distinctive mezzo soprano and balletic moves to the titular role.

Catherine Wyn-Rogers, ENO Chorus, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Catherine Wyn-Rogers, ENO Chorus, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

 

Samantha Price in title role 2023 © Craig Fuller
Samantha Price in title role 2023 © Craig Fuller

All in all, Iolanthe is a splendid frothy confection that will be voraciously devoured by both adults and children alike.


Maxine Morse

Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.

Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.


UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON
Iolanthe at the English National Opera.
Samantha Price as Iolanthe and John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor in  Iolanthe in the  Cal McCrystal production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s operetta Iolanthe continuing the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the London Colosseum. The opening night for ENO Iolanthe is on the 5 of October  and then 12 performances up until the 25th of October.

 

 

ENO Peter Grimes Review – A Harrowing Thriller

Gwyn Hughes Jones as ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

 

The ENO’s Peter Grimes is not going to be a cosy night at the opera. You can see that in the sparse cantilevered set – dark and gloomy. This will be harrowing viewing.

In a small gossipy fishing village on the English East Coast we find the brow-beaten Peter Grimes (Gwyn Hughes Jones) standing trial for the death of his apprentice. Grimes protests it was an unfortunate accident and Swallow (Clive Bayley), the prosecuting lawyer, forcefully disputes his account much to the delight of the baying crowd. Reluctantly acquitted, Grimes is clearly guilty in the court of public opinion.

Peter Grimes, the impoverished fisherman, is the Borough’s scapegoat. Neither likeable or dislikeable, he melds into his grimy and grey surroundings. But he has dreams. Conventional, keeping up with the Joneses dreams, of a wife, a house, a happy life and money. This will buy him status and an escape from exclusion.

 

Unable to work alone or pay for adult labour, he must fly in the face of Swallow’s advice by finding another apprentice to repair nets and help haul fish.

 

Ellen Orford (Elizabeth Llewellyn) longs to marry Grimes. He is not a catch but probably the best that a lonely widow can do. She convinces the Borough that she will nurture and safeguard any child procured for Grimes from the workhouse.

Elizabeth Llewellyn makes a stunning debut as Ellen Orford in ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles
Elizabeth Llewellyn makes a stunning debut as Ellen Orford in ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

Grimes has spied a shoal of fish.  But a deadly storm is brewing. Grimes sees his chance as no other fishermen will be brave enough to net it. The boy is tired and terrified.

 

We can see this is not going to end well…

 

Elizabeth Llewellyn starts out scratchy and screechy, singing in the upper range of her register, mirroring her inner desperation. Her voice mellows into a powerful angst-ridden performance that propels us into her inner world of hopes and dreams that are constantly dashed like waves crashing on the shoreline.

 

Peter Grimes’s apprentice, Rudy Williams, with his animalistic hiding behaviours and mute writhing, perfectly conveys the sheer fright of being apprenticed to a potential murderer.

William Biletsky captures pure terror in his role as Peter Grimes's apprentice ©2023 Tom Bowles
Rudy Williams captures pure terror in his role as Peter Grimes’s apprentice ©2023 Tom Bowles

Set against the theme of social alienation is a Dickensian exploration into small town bigoted bloody mindedness. The hypocrisy of the village is laid bare.  The apothecary Ned Keene (Alex Otterburne) is not above supplying laudanum to the elderly Mrs Sedley (Anne-Marie Owens), a sleuthing Miss Marple who in turn, gleefully spreads unfounded gossip about Grimes in her drug fuelled haze.

 

Two pre-pubescent nieces (Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd) who hopscotch dance and carry their dolls are sexual fodder for the sleazy fisherman and Methodist preacher Bob Boles (John Findon).

Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd put on a magnetising performance with their robotic acting and crazed demeanour. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles
Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd put on a magnetising performance with their robotic acting and crazed demeanour. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

Their Auntie, a pub landlord (Christine Rice) prowls round the stage in her fur coat and walking stick. Rice’s forceful vocals make her the embodiment of female power in this male centric society.  She is after all the purveyor of sex and alcohol.

Christine Rice with her manly attire is the embodiment of female power in this male dominated community. ©2023 Tom Bowles
Christine Rice with her manly attire is the embodiment of female power in this male dominated community. ©2023 Tom Bowles

The chorus scenes shine bright. Mob rule at its best. The movement director, Maxine Braham, does a fine job of creating spectacle after spectacle…the crowd clench fists, clasp hands and punch the air…or dance a surreal country jig reinforcing the notion that this tightly knit community will be seeking their next victim when they have dispensed with Grimes.

Director David Alden creates a thrilling psychological spectacle. On occasions, he takes things too far. Would even the most despicable drunk sexually intimidate an elderly woman?


Please check out our other reviews and if you are new to opera you may find these tips useful for your fist visit.


It is rare to find an opera where the lighting plays such a pivotal role in evoking a menacing atmosphere. Lighting revival designer, Gary James, takes us from bleak seashore to dim workhouse, to cosy pub, to evening street party and then to Grimes’s solo dramatic soliloquy with its strong, almost incandescent, light and black shadows.

 

Gwyn Hughes Jones role is challenging. It calls for a socially inept man who yearns to rise to life’s challenges but is held back by lack of self belief. Hughes Jones slips into this role with apparent ease, neither singing too forcefully or too timidly. His voice convincingly conveys the twists and turns of his enigmatic situation.

The ebullient crowd scenes are a special treat. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles
The ebullient crowd scenes are a special treat. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

Martyn Brabbins is a master of orchestral control.  He sweeps the audience up in the stormy, frothing sea, harbour bustle, misery and hopelessness. The orchestra came on stage for much-deserved applause during the curtain call. Their performance was the tour de force of the night.

 

We prayed hard and fervently for Grimes to reappear with his workhouse apprentice…simply a misunderstanding. Or for him to heed Ellen Orford’s plea to “Come home out of this dreadful night”.  Engulfed by his feelings of unworthiness and hopelessness, he is swayed by the devilish suggestion from Captain Balstrode (Simon Bailey) to take his boat out far from shore and sink it.

 

Who will be the Borough’s next victim?


Maxine Morse

Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.

Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.


UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON, 18th September 2023
ENO Peter Grimes at the English National Opera.
Gwen Hughes Jones as Peter Grimes in the David Alden production of Benjamin Britten’s opera Peter Grimes opening the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the Colosseum. The opening night is on the 21st of September and then 8 performances up until the 11th of October.

Budget London Red Bus Tour using Public Transport

London Red Bus Tour

Looking for a London Red Bus Tour and don’t want to pay through the nose for an overpriced tour? Have you thought of seeing London on a public bus? 

A one day bus pass for an adult costs £5.25 and you can hop on and hop off all day long. Some bus routes are better than others for touring London. I recommend numbers 9, 11 and 75.

Let’s start our series of budget London red bus tours with the number 9 route which passes iconic London sights like Kensington Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden. 

Photo credit: It’s No Game

Itinerary for the Number 9 London Red Bus Tour

The number 9 bus route can be seen on the Transport for London website. We are going to concentrate on the section from Kensington Palace to Covent Garden

London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route
London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route

Buses in central London leave every few minutes so there’s no need to get hung up on bus arrival and departure times.

You can get off the bus whenever you want and then simply go back to the same bus stop when you are ready to resume your journey.

The best seats for this London Red Bus Tour are the top of the double decker at the front…otherwise choose a window seat with uninterrupted views.

1. Kensington Palace

Kensington Palace

Obviously, you’d be mad to miss Kensington Palace .  It was the birthplace of Queen Victoria and continues to be home to Royalty including Prince William and Princess Catherine. When Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were courting they had a cottage in the grounds.

The state rooms are open to the general public.  Kensington Palace’s forte lies in its display of court jewellery and costumes. There are beautiful clothing displays including Princess Diana’s much photographed dresses.

The controversial Princess Diana sculpture is the Sunken Garden which you can visit free of charge. You decide…does it do her justice?

The scones and cream in the cafe are particularly good and there is a nice outside courtyard area in which to enjoy them.

Kensington Palace: The King's Staircase
Kensington Palace: The King’s Staircase

 

Now its time to begin your budget London red bus tour adventure…board the Number 9 bus at Kensington Palace.

 

2. The Royal Albert Hall

 

The Royal Albert Hall

Our London Red Bus Tour goes past the Royal Albert Hall which is a famous concert space known for the annual classical music festival the Proms.

The Royal Albert Hall. Photo by Greg Fot
The Royal Albert Hall. Photo by Greg Fot

 

The Prince Albert Memorial

The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe 
The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe

 

Facing the Royal Albert Hall, is the Prince Albert Memorial which Queen Victoria commissioned in memory of her husband Prince Albert with whom she had nine children.  It’s our equivalent of the Taj Mahal; a tribute to enduring love.

The Royal Music College

Behind the Royal Albert Hall you will find the Royal Music College with its exciting programme of low cost music recitals. You can find out about their current programme here.

3. Knightsbridge Station

Harrods

Our third stop is Knightsbridge where you will find the ultra exclusive Harrods department store. Nestled inside is a  shopping arcade of high-end brands, luxury designer handbags and a jaw dropping food hall.

Harrods food hall is just the place to pick up a sandwich, sausage roll, pork pie, quiche or any other portable delight to enjoy on your London red bus tour.

 

Harvey Nichols

Equally luxurious is the nearby Harvey Nichols department store with its focus on fashion and premium makeup.

Return to the bus stop to continue your budget London red bus tour as we are now going to chill out in London’s best known park.

 

4. Hyde Park Corner Station

Hyde Park

Hyde Park is the largest London Royal park.  It has two outdoor cafes overlooking a man-made lake and is dotted with hire by the hour deckchairs.

The more energetic may enjoy a boating trip or an outdoor swim.

Hyde Park is just the place to decompress. Take a stroll through the Rose Garden or have an ice cream in the Italianate garden.

The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations
The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations
Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming
Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming

Get back on the bus as our next stop will involve art, more royal palaces and afternoon teas.

5. Green Park

 

Park Lane

The bus crosses the end of Park Lane, home to luxury 5 star hotels including the Dorchester, the Four Seasons and the London Hilton. Which has the most luxurious foyer? You decide.

 

The Wellington Arch and Green Park

On the right, you will see the Wellington Arch, Green Park and the walls of Buckingham Palace.

 

Buckingham Palace

You can get off the bus here for Buckingham Palace which is a 10 minute walk through Green Park.

The exterior of Buckingham Palace
The exterior of Buckingham Palace

 

The Ritz

Look out for the world famous Ritz Hotel which has hosted celebrities and royalty for decades. Afternoon Tea is a spectacular affair but it will be necessary to book well in advance and adhere to their strict dress code.

The Ritz
The Ritz

 


We have a useful blog post on how to have a day out at Buckingham Palace and the Ritz. We include exploring the St James’s area.


 

The Wolseley

You are now on my favourite street, Piccadilly. It  has the Wolseley with its beautiful monochrome interior and one of the best afternoon teas in London (a bargain compared with the adjacent Ritz).

Banana Split at the Wolseley - probably the best dessert in London.
Banana Split at the Wolseley – probably the best dessert in London.

It is almost worth visiting the Wolseley just to eat their banana split.

The Royal Academy

 

The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition
The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition

On the left you will see the Royal Academy which is home to the celebrated Summer Exhibition. Any artist can submit a piece of work for consideration…you will see the most bizarre ideas.

We reviewed Loneliness of the Soul  by the controversial Royal Academician, Tracy Emin. This will give you a taste of what to expect.

The Royal Academy has free galleries and loos…the outdoor cafe with its tables and umbrellas is a nice place to sip cappuccino away from the bustle of Piccadilly.

 

The Burlington Arcade

Next door to the Royal Academy is the Burlington Arcade an indoor shopping street with luxury brands and a distinctive period feel.

 

Fortnum & Mason

Opposite the Royal Academy is Fortnum & Mason, the Queen’s Grocer. Pay a visit to see its beautiful food displays. Tourists beat a path here for its legendary loose tea and quality preserves.

No need to buy groceries, some say that afternoon tea at Fortnum’s is the best in London.

Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.
Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.

You may enjoy our post on Where to buy tea in London and you can get an idea of what they sell from our post on a Fortnum and Mason Hamper for for a Londoner.


 

Hatchards

If you walk up Piccadilly, past Fortnums,  you will see the Royal book seller Hatchards. It has an old fashioned, very British  style and service making it a fascinating place to browse.

Hatchard's book store which supplies Royalty
Hatchard’s book store which supplies Royalty

There are a couple of notable book sellers in Piccadilly including Waterstone’s which is the biggest book store in Europe with 8 miles of books.


St James’s Palace

St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer
St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer

 

Behind Fortnums and Hatchards you will find Jermyn Street with its small artisan shops selling everything from cheese to toiletries, men’s clothing and chocolates.

From here you can walk to St James’s Palace and Clarence House, the London Residence of King Charles III and Queen Camilla.

 

5. Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.
Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.

 

Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus  is London’s equivalent of New York’s Times Square.

If I am honest, it’s not my thing not least because it is crowded with young people enjoying raucous street entertainment.

Visit to take souvenir photos of the Eros Statue, Piccadilly Circus and the LED advertising which is especially spectacular at dusk.

If you are one of the gilded youth,  you maybe able to pick up the man or woman of your dreams by sitting on the steps of the Eros Statue.

 

The Criterion Theatre and the Criterion Restaurant

The charming Criterion Theatre  with its distinctive 20’s vibe faces the Eros statue.

Next door, you’ll find the preserved gold mosaic interior of the former  Criterion Restaurant .  Lately, it has gone downmarket and is now a chain Indian restaurant.  Not all progress is improvement.

Brasserie Zedel

If you are hungry, I can recommend a hidden gem.  Brasserie Zedel  with its well priced set menus is a basement restaurant on the Regent’s Street Side of Piccadilly Circus. It looks like a small cafe above ground and nothing alerts you to its gleaming Gallic interior and crystal chandelier.

The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie Zedel
The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie Zedel
The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel
The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel

We have produced a detailed review of the Brasserie Zedel set menus.


At Brasserie Zedel you will also find the Art Deco American Bar which serves classic cocktails and the vibrant red and black Crazy Coqs night club.

The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel
The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel

 

Regent’s Street

Regent’s Street is less crowded than Oxford Circus with more style and class. It contains many mid priced stores like Zara and H&M alongside luxury brands.

At the top of Regent’s Street, you will find Liberty with its Revival Tudor frontage constructed from the timbers of three ancient battle ships.

Now return to Piccadilly Circus and get comfy on the bus as we are heading to a famous sight…one that screams London.

 

6. Trafagar Square

The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light
The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light

 

Trafalgar Square

This historic square was designed by John Nash to commemorate the Battle of  Trafalgar. It is now a popular meeting point and site for political demonstrations. Look out for the fourth plinth which is a showcase contemporary art.

The National Gallery

At the north end of the square you will see the National Gallery with its free public exhibitions containing the works of almost every painter of any note from Rembrandt  to the Impressionists.

 

The National Gallery home to important works of art.
The National Gallery home to important works of art.

The National Portrait Gallery

Around the corner from the National Gallery is the newly refurbished National Portrait Gallery. This used to be a dusty mausoleum of an art gallery until they hired Sir Roy Strong as its flamboyant and creative director. He breathed a new life into its exhibitions and you will see all sorts of work that push the boundaries of what’s possible in portrait painting.

 

The London Coliseum

Opposite the National Portrait Gallery in Saint Martin’s Lane, you will find the London Coliseum which is home to the English National Opera.

The ENO is famed for its inclusivity with seats starting at £10.  There are some fantastic offers for new opera goers,  school children and the under 35s.

All of its operas are sung in English. Note the the opera season here is from Autumn to Spring.

7. Southampton Street/Covent Garden

Covent Garden Market

Now you are probably on your knees with exhaustion, so I would recommend making Covent Garden your final stop. This used to be a fruit and vegetable market but now it has a lively street market selling art, crafts and London souvenirs.

Covent Garden Street Performers

A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.
A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.

Covent Garden is just the place for a coffee, drink or ice cream while watching street performers. Last time I was in Covent Garden I stumbled upon the ice cream bar Milk Train. Their sundaes looked amazing. There were queues round the block so clearly they tasted amazing too.

Covent Garden Restaurants

Notable restaurants here are the historic Rules which specialises in British cuisine like pies and puddings and Balthazar – a stylish French restaurant.

Regular opera goers also recommend Le Garrick and Frenchie for their reasonably priced pre opera menus.

The Royal Opera House

The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House

A grand finale for your could be a trip to the opera. You can have the experience of a lifetime by visiting the Royal Opera House where you will hear world class performers singing opera in glorious burgundy velvet surroundings.

Concluding our London Red Bus Tour

Don’t you think that it is amazing what you can see for the cost of a £5.25 one day bus pass?  If you take this tour as a single journey without leaving the bus it will cost £1.75. You can pay by Oystercard or credit card.  If you have travelled in by tube, your budget London red bus tour will be part of your capped daily spend, therefore it may cost you no extra.