A Descent into Darkness: ENO’s The Turn of the Screw Grips and Spooks

Ailish Tynan, Eleanor Dennis, Victoria Nekhaenko, Jerry Louth, ENO’s The Turn of the Screw 2024 © Manuel Harlan
Ailish Tynan, Eleanor Dennis, Victoria Nekhaenko, Jerry Louth, ENO’s The Turn of the Screw 2024 © Manuel Harlan

The English National Opera’s The Turn of the Screw, is an atmospheric and chilling rendition of Benjamin Britten’s psychological thriller. This production, newly interpreted and staged by Isabella Bywater for the 2024/2025 season delivers a gripping exploration of innocence, repression, and the supernatural, while allowing the opera’s themes of ambiguity and fear to unfold with a slow-burning intensity.

Britten’s haunting score, conducted by Duncan Ward, is brought to life with precision and clarity. The orchestra masterfully balances the eerie, sparse instrumentation with lush, romantic undercurrents, reflecting the growing tension and unease in the narrative. Ward’s pacing is deliberate, allowing the unease to creep through every bar without losing the momentum of the story’s chilling trajectory.

The unnamed governess in a frumpy pink frock and fluffy slippers is incarcerated in a 1960’s mental asylum and is recalling her experiences of 30 years previously when she took charge of two very disturbed orphaned children at a gothic mansion. Were the children sexually abused, were they haunted by ghosts or has the governess herself “lost the plot”? You, the audience, are left to decide.

The set design plays a pivotal role in establishing the opera’s unsettling mood. It has all the magical Bywater elements of walls which stretch and contract emphasising the lack of certainty and make the audience feel that they too are descending into madness. The imposing, structure of Bly House with its extensive parkland is projected onto the stage, creating a claustrophobic, haunted atmosphere. Its towering, flickering and shadowy presence mirrors the psychological landscape of the characters, particularly the Governess, whose gradual unravelling is visually underscored by the play of light and shadow. Bywater’s minimalist yet evocative design, complemented by Paul Anderson’s haunting lighting, and Jon Driscoll’s video projections lend a Hitchcockian quality to the production.


If you are new to opera you may enjoy our blog post on opera tips.


At the heart of the opera is a stellar performance by Ailish Tynan as the Governess. Tynan’s portrayal is a masterclass in vocal control and emotional depth. She captures the character’s initial innocence and idealism, but as the events at Bly House spiral into the inexplicable, her performance becomes increasingly unhinged, reflecting the fragility of the Governess’ mental state. Tynan’s voice is clear and lyrical, yet it carries a distinctly strained edge as she sings in the upper range of her register which perfectly suits the opera’s dark undertones.

Victoria Nekhaenko, ENO’s The Turn of the Screw 2024 © Manuel Harlan.
Victoria Nekhaenko, ENO’s The Turn of the Screw 2024 © Manuel Harlan.

Countering her is the ghostly figure of Peter Quint, sung by tenor Robert Murray. Murray’s Quint is both seductive and menacing, embodying the ambiguity of evil that Britten so masterfully weaves into the score. His duets with the Governess, particularly in the second act, bristle with tension, their voices intertwining in a way that blurs the line between reality and the supernatural.

The two child singers, who perform as Miles and Flora, deserve special mention. Miles, portrayed by Nicolai Flutter, impresses with his clear, angelic voice and unsettling maturity. The innocence of his character is constantly questioned, and Flutter navigates this duality with a subtlety that belies his age. Holly Hyton’s Flora is equally commendable, her bright tone lending an ethereal quality to the child’s increasingly disturbing behaviour as the pair dress as a nun and priest, chant gobbledegook in their lessons and play with dolls.

However, the opera’s true strength lies in its psychological complexity and ambiguity. Bywater’s direction highlights the thin line between the supernatural and psychological breakdown, refusing to give easy answers about whether the ghosts are real or manifestations of the Governess’ disturbed mind. This ambiguity is heightened by the tension between the lush, melodic passages and the dissonant, jarring moments in Britten’s score.

In this production, the tension is palpable, the atmosphere oppressive, and the performances nuanced. It’s an opera that lingers long after the final notes have faded, as unsettling and unresolved as the narrative itself. The Turn of the Screw at the ENO is a compelling and thought-provoking experience, a masterful blending of music, drama, and atmosphere that will leave audiences questioning the nature of innocence, evil, and the fine line between the two.


The ENO’s Turn of the Screw opens on Friday 11 October for 7 performances Oct 11, 16, 23, 29,31 at 19.00. Oct 13 at 14.30. Oct 26 at 18.00.

Opera tickets for ENO Turn of the Screw can be purchased here.

Under 21s can get free opera tickets to all ENO performances at every level of the theatre, and 21-35 year olds can get discounted opera tickets. Tickets for everyone begin at £10.

#ENOTurnOfTheScrew

Review: A Haunting Triumph: ENO’s Suor Angelica Delivers Raw Emotion and Stark Beauty

Sinéad Campbell-Wallace, ENO’s Suor Angelica 2024 © Genevieve Girling (2)
Sinéad Campbell-Wallace, ENO’s Suor Angelica 2024 © Genevieve Girling (2).jpg
Sinéad Campbell-Wallace, ENO’s Suor Angelica 2024 © Genevieve Girling (2).jpg

The English National Opera’s latest production of Suor Angelica, staged at the London Coliseum, is an evocative and emotionally charged portrayal of Puccini’s short but powerful opera. Directed by the ever-innovative Annilese Miskimmon, this staging of the 1918 work delves deeply into themes of religious barbarism, repentance, maternal love, and redemption, with a striking simplicity that enhances the intensity of the narrative.

Yannis Thavoris’s minimalist approach to the set design works in the production’s favour, stripping away distractions and placing the emotional core of the story at the forefront. Set in one of the controversial Magdalene Laundries, bedecked with drying sheets and primitive washing implements, he portrays an austere realism in an abstract manner using clean lines and muted tones. This choice underscores the emotional prison of Suor Angelica, allowing her internal anguish to take centre stage, as the audience is forced to focus on her emotional journey rather than on external details.

The Cast of ENO’s Suor Angelica 2024 © Genevieve Girling (4).jpg
The Cast of ENO’s Suor Angelica 2024 © Genevieve Girling (4).jpg

Sinead Campbell-Wallace’s performance as Suor Angelica is simply spellbinding. Campbell-Wallace’s rich, emotive soprano voice captures the torment and longing of the character with heartrending clarity. Her rendition of “Senza Mamma” was the evening’s high point, delivered with such raw vulnerability that it left the audience transfixed. The pain of a mother mourning the child she was forced to abandon was palpable, and Campbell-Wallace’s portrayal was both deeply human and transcendent.

The supporting cast was equally impressive. Christine Rice as the Princess brought an icy severity to her role, providing the perfect contrast to Suor Angelica’s warmth and desperation. Rice’s voice, smooth and commanding, mirrored her character’s cold indifference, creating a chilling scene in which the emotional cruelty of her visit is laid bare.

The orchestra, under the expert baton of Corinna Niemeyer, gave a nuanced and sensitive performance of Puccini’s score. The music swelled and receded with the emotional tides of the story, supporting the singers without overwhelming them. Niemeyer masterfully navigated the transitions between the stark convent scenes and the operatic tragedy, bringing out the pathos in Puccini’s lush orchestration.


If you are new to opera you may enjoy our blog post on opera tips.


The chorus of nuns provided a sombre backdrop, their voices weaving together to create an almost ethereal soundscape. Miskimmon’s direction ensures that each member of the chorus remains an integral part of the drama, contributing to the oppressive atmosphere that surrounds Suor Angelica. Their androgynous, make-up-less and braless presence feels omnipresent yet distant, reinforcing the isolation that defines the protagonist’s life in the convent.

While the production thrives on its emotional depth, there were moments where the starkness of the staging felt almost too bare. The absence of traditional visual cues—such as the grandeur of the church or the convent garden—may not resonate with all audiences, particularly those more familiar with traditional interpretations of Puccini’s works. Nevertheless, this approach allows for a greater focus on the psychological aspects of the story, a trade-off that ultimately benefits the production. I also wondered how audience members would interpret the crawling child in the grand suicide finale – an apparition of a distraught, dying woman or a Romeo and Juliet moment when the child is found to be alive, as his mother dies?

In summary, ENO’s Suor Angelica is a moving exploration of grief, guilt, and spiritual salvation. Miskimmon’s vision, combined with Campbell-Wallace’s powerhouse performance and Niemeyer’ sensitive musical direction, make this production a compelling and unforgettable experience. While the stark staging may divide opinion, it undoubtedly draws attention to the emotional intensity of the opera, making it a triumph for the ENO.


Suor Angelica ran for 2 performances on Friday 27 September 2024.

Under 21s can get free opera tickets to all ENO performances at every level of the theatre, and 21-35 year olds can get discounted opera tickets. Tickets for everyone begin at £10.

#ENOSuorAngelica

Where to Buy Tea in London? – Ask a Londoner

Yesterday, I was approached by a tourist on Piccadilly who asked me where to buy tea in London. She then added in broken English, “Where do you buy your tea?”.

Where to buy tea in London?
Where to buy tea in London?

Quality London Tea Stores

Where I buy my tea in London and where she should buy her tea are two distinct questions which, as a savvy Londoner, I shall explain.

A tourist  is looking for authentic English tea accompanied with a great “buying experience”. They may want to be attended by a suited man in a tail coat who can explain, with great aplomb, the history, geography and science of tea  and guide them to making a selection.

Ideally,  the tea will be sold by weight and on the wall, behind our tail coated expert, will be dozens of liveried tea caddies, preferably adorned with Royal Warrants.

After all we want to drink what King Charles drinks, don’t we?

As we were on Piccadilly, I pointed my tea questioning tourist to two Royal Warrant bearing stores.

 

Fortnum and Mason is My Personal Choice for Tea Buying in London

181 Piccadilly, St. James’s, London W1A 1ER

Where to buy tea in London? Fortnum and Mason on Piccadilly
Where to buy tea in London? Fortnum and Mason on Piccadilly

 

Fortnum and Mason has been selling tea since people did their shopping using a horse and carriage.

Nowhere in London will you find tea of such quality and with such exquisite blends.

You can be sure that whenever there is a  Royal occasion, Fortnum and Mason will bring out a blended tea to commemorate it. Currently, they have special caddies of organic Darjeeling to mark the Coronation of King Charles III.

As I write this post, I am sipping their Mother’s Day Tea which has a distinctive blend of rose and bergamot…it’s subtle which I like, as I am drinking it black. I also have a penchant for full bodied Assam teas. I bought their Irish Tea which is a bold, in your face tea, for early in the morning when you’ve run out of coffee.


Fortnum’s makes an amazing effort with its window design. Its probably the best in London check out these amazing windows made entirely with coloured paper. If you are in London at Christmas their windows are always a delight with several aimed solely at children.


At Twinings You Can Buy Quality Tea and Enjoy its Unique Tea Sampling Bar

216 Strand London WC2R 1AP

Twinings on the Strand offers a unique tea buying experience.
Twinings on the Strand offers a unique tea buying experience.

Twinings is another Royal Warrant bearing, tea shop steeped in 300 years of history.

After the Great Fire of London, Thomas Twining, an astute business man realised that the upper classes would be relocating from the burnt out City to the West End. He chose this prime position on the Strand and made tea a fashionable drink amongst the upper class ladies of London.

A Twinings Tea Caddy
A Twinings Tea Caddy

Ever innovative, Twinings now has a premium sampling bar where you can ask to taste teas that have caught your eye and chat to experts for recommendations.

If you are looking for a special gift, you can create your own personalised selection of tea and request that it be packaged in a deluxe wooden Twinings box.

 

Mariage Freres Sells a 1000 Teas from 36 Countries

38 King Street, Covent Garden, London, WC2E 8JS

Mariage Freres has a Tea Museum and the biggest selection of teas.
Mariage Freres has a Tea Museum and the biggest selection of teas.

Mariage Freres, founded in 1854,  may be an unusual choice for a London tea store as it is proudly French!

I mention it because it has an apothecary style of service with tea experts selling tea by weight. The caddies are luxurious with their period black and cream branding.

This is the perfect store for a day of tea indulgence. It has the longest tea wall in the world selling a 1000 teas from 36 countries. On one of the upper floors there is a tea museum.

The Marco Polo blend with notes of flowers and fruits is one of their most popular blends.

A Mariage Freres Tea Caddy
A Mariage Freres Tea Caddy

 


If you are enjoying this post on Where to Buy Tea in London you may also enjoy reading about our recent discovery of Postcard Teas London Roast.


Where to  Buy Tea in London as a Londoner?

Let’s return to the original question that I was asked by our Piccadilly tourist, where do I buy my tea?

I buy my tea in the Waitrose supermarket! Since I have cut down on dairy and caffeine I have a large selection of herbal Pukka teas. My black tea of choice is Yorkshire tea.

Londoners seem to be evenly divided on whether they prefer PG Tips or Yorkshire Tea for their breakfast blend – I am firmly in the Yorkshire Tea camp.

Before you call me a Philistine, I do have a kitchen cupboard rammed full of gifted Fortnum and Twining teas.

Londoners are a busy bunch. They rarely buy loose tea.

A quick dunk of a tea bag in stained mug is the most that we can usually manage. After all, we are are not the Dowager Countess of Grantham in Downton Abbey, or the  Queen with Paddington bear, pouring  from a Wedgwood tea pot and passing the milk and sugar.

Incidentally, if you find yourself  near the budget store Lidl, I find their award winning Knightsbridge Gold tea to be one of the best.

 

 

Tea Paraphernalia

It seems to have become uncouth to have sugar in your tea. Most Londoners will only have fresh cold milk (poured in last, please).

La Perruche Sugar Cubes

However, if you are using your posh tea set, you will get some kudos for offering hand cut La Perruche sugar cubes in a lidded container with a pair of sugar tongs. OK, people may think that you are a bit mad but please channel your inner Countess.

La Perruche Sugar Cubes. The perfect accompaniment to English tea.
La Perruche Sugar Cubes. The perfect accompaniment to English tea.

The Brown Betty Teapot

The Brown Betty Teapot with its locking lid and non drip spout is a utilitarian design classic that dates back to 1700.

There’s a big debate on whether a tea pot should be cleaned. My neighbour was distraught when  a friend scrubbed the inside of their Brown Betty teapot removing the build up of tannins as their tea never tasted the same.

 

A Wedgwood Tea Service

If you want to imitate Countess Crawley or Queen Elizabeth II you could do no better than buying a Wedgwood service.

A Wedgwood teapot in the Wild Strawberry design. This can be purchased from Harrods.
A Wedgwood teapot in the Wild Strawberry design. This can be purchased from Harrods.
The Beautiful Kutani Crane design by Wedgwood. Photo by Swedg.
The Beautiful Kutani Crane design by Wedgwood. Photo by Swedg.

The individual items can be pricy. A Wedgwood teapot may set you back £200 in Harrods. So think like a savvy Londoner and search for “tea sets” or “tea services” on eBay or Facebook Market Place, sorting by”Distance first” so you can collect in person.

If you develop a passion for Fortnum and Mason you may enjoy our blog post on our dream Fortnum’s food hamper May you have many happy hours buying tea in London.

Next week, I will be answering another pressing tourist question, so I will be looking friendly and approachable as I walk the streets of London. Please check back to see what thorny dilemma I address.

Royal Academy Summer Exhibition Top Tips

Royal Academy Summer Exhibition
Royal Academy Summer Exhibition

The Royal Academy Summer Exhibition is illuminating, bizarre, moving and often laugh-out-loud funny. No wonder it has special bragging rights. It screams London in the summer.

This flag ship show is where amateur and professional artists compete to exhibit and sell their art.  It is coordinated by a leading artist and equally celebrated committee.

As you go from room to room, you can detect the individual curator’s taste. Some rooms have a dark and gloomy vibe, while others are colour themed, industrial or cutesy. One gallery this year closely resembled a craft shop.

Prepare to be entertained by the significant proportion of odd exhibits. I have seen art school tutors laughing and debating the more “out there” creations…evidently too much even for them.

Here are my tips to get the most out of the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition

Gain Free entry to the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition

Consider becoming a Royal Academy member. Annual membership (£138 for 2 people and half price for the under 35s) will allow you to dip in and out of the Summer Exhibition on the day and visit multiple times free of charge. And if you have any spare energy on the day you can visit other exhibitions within the building without charge.

Membership allows you to dip in and out of the RA Summer Exhibition
Membership allows you to dip in and out of the RA Summer Exhibition

You’ll need at least two hours to see the RA Summer Exhibition properly

Go With An Open Mind

Expect to love, hate and be indifferent to many exhibits and that is all ok. Seek out the one or two exhibits in each room which “speak to you”. That way you will enjoy it more instead of feeling the need to generalise about the show as a whole.

Spot Exhibits by Royal Academicians

Interspersed with works by amateur and unknown artists you will see a few by Royal Academicians like Tracey Emin.

Look Up and Down

Not every painting has a prime spot some great pieces will be placed above and below eye level.

Make Use of the Royal Academy Member’s Room

The Summer Exhibition is an assault on the senses and you can tire quickly. There’s a Member’s Only room beside the entrance called the Keeper’s House. You can get alcoholic refreshments, teas and coffees, cakes, bowl salads and sandwiches in much nicer surroundings than the general café.

Google the Room Curator

The name of the curator who has chosen the art for each room is displayed on the wall by the room entrance. You can find out more about them with a quick internet search. There’s a good internet signal in the exhibition.

Use the Viewing Benches

There are backless benches in every room and these are usually placed at a good angle for viewing the art so it makes good use of them if you need a rest from walking or standing.

Use the viewing benches
Use the viewing benches

 


You can combine a trip to the Royal Academy with a DIY bus tour using the Number 9 bus which starts at Kensington Palace and terminates at Covent Garden.


Buy the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition Catalogue

The catalogue for the RA Summer Exhibition shows the name of the artist the name of the work of art and the price of the piece. It costs £3.50 (2024) and is essential if you want to buy anything. Bring a pen so you can mark the title that you are interested in on the catalogue.

 

Buy the RA Summer Exhibition Catalogue
Buy the RA Summer Exhibition Catalogue

Use the Large Print Programme

Alternatively, there are several large print catalogues for the partially sighted which show essential information on the artist, art name and price. This is available in each room and needs to be returned to he stand before progressing to the next room.

Use the large print guide for the partially sighted
Use the large print guide for the partially sighted

Identify the Red Sold Stickers

You’ll see a red sticker on a piece when it is sold. If you see multiple stickers on a piece, it means that it is a limited edition work with more than one copy available.

A red dot sticker indicates the piece has been sold.
A red dot sticker indicates the piece has been sold.

If Buying Art, Visit Early in the Season

Many works are priced under £250 which make them a great buy for budding art collectors. Bear in mind that the cheaper exhibits tend to sell first.  If you want to buy, attend a ‘member’s only’ preview or go early on in the exhibition calendar. You can book your tickets on the Royal Academy website. Entrance is £22 – £24.50  per person.

Look for Art that May Work in Your Space

The purpose of art is never to merely adorn walls but when viewing look for a special piece that may fit in your home. Even if you don’t buy, it will give you purpose and you browse through hundreds of works.

Take Photos

There are no restrictions on photography at the RA Summer Exhibition. You can fill your social media feed with inspiring and colourful shots. Aim to provide a context for the day by photographing the exterior of the iconic Royal Academy building and take some general shots of the viewing galleries.

Gain Inspiration For Your Own Creations

The Royal Academy Summer Exhibition provides fantastic inspiration for your own arts and crafts. Sometimes a piece is so intricate and created by such talented artists it would be impossible to recreate but equally there are many ideas in the show that are genius concepts but with simple execution.

Skull made using vintage cast off jewellery which could be the inspiration for your own arts and crafts.
Skull made using vintage cast off jewellery which could be the inspiration for your own arts and crafts.

Pace Your Royal Academy Summer Exhibition Viewing

There are approximately 9 key rooms in the RA Summer Exhibition with the smaller more interesting art pieces densely exhibited in the final rooms.

 

The Royal Academy Summer Exhibition contains over 1700 works of art.

There is usually at least one fascinating large-scale installations in the final room. Most people have a tendency to take their time viewing the first three rooms and run out of energy when it comes to the later exhibits. You may even want to see the show in reverse order, by starting with the final rooms and work your way forwards.

A large scale installation in the final room with accompanying classical music.
A large scale installation in the final room with accompanying classical music.

 

Dress the Part

The Royal Academy Summer Exhibition is the place to see and be seen. Dress exotically and extravagantly…act as if you are a hip artist or muse, not a suburban spectator.

 

Avoid the Worst Restaurants in London – A Londoner’s Tips

Are you keen to avoid the worst restaurants in London and other food traps? Anyone who sells food in London has to comply with a stringent set of regulations, making it one of the safest cities in the world to eat. But safe and tasty are two different things.

Naming no names, here is a very personal list of restaurants to dodge.

The worst restaurants in London
The worst restaurants in London

For every place on my list there will be many people telling me of the exception to the rule. So at the risk of being controversial, I am going to plunge in…

Ultra Cheap Food Chains Top the List of the Worst Restaurants in London.

A high street burger can be cheap but is it memorable?
A high street burger can be cheap but is it memorable?

I have a friend who worked as a science teacher who told me an apocryphal tale that they ran a science experiment on a burger from a famous low cost food chain and they couldn’t find any meat in it. I can’t vouch for this experiment and it doesn’t, on the face of it, sound as if there is much truth in it…but when you think that some of the burgers out there cost £1, it begs the question of how they manage to make a profit.

Why would you come to London and eat at low cost food chains when you could have identical meals in your own home town?

If you are desperate for a burger from a high street chain, I would say that Byron Burgers and Five Guys are a better bet.

Alternatively, for a few pounds more you can have a memorable burger in sumptuous surroundings at the Brasserie Zedel. It’s on the menu as Boeuf Hache and is served as part of their fixed price menu.

Empty Restaurants Indicate a Poor Rating for Food and Service

An empty restaurant at peak times may signify poor quality food or service
An empty restaurant at peak times may signify poor quality food or service

London is a busy place where news of a good restaurant gets out fast. In Soho and Fitzrovia you will see queues outside the doors of many places at lunch time.

Empty restaurants with a slightly out-dated decor are always a warning sign to me.

Touts or Cartoon Characters are Signs of an Underperforming Restaurant

Restaurant touts or cartoon characters may indicate an unpopular venue
Restaurant touts or cartoon characters may indicate an unpopular venue

If the manager is handing out cards outside the restaurant door, or worse still, they have paid for someone in fancy dress to entice me inside – it’s a five siren alarm.

Sandwiches from Corner Shops and Supermarkets May be Made off Premises

Sandwiches at newsagents and corner shops are probably made on an industrial estate
Sandwiches at newsagents and corner shops are probably made on an industrial estate

There are two types of London sandwiches; those that are made on the premises and tend to be deep filled, fresh and tasty and those that are made on an out-of-town industrial estate with ingredients that are dipped in preservatives, encased in plastic and delivered by van to a shop or cafe.

They may be edible but are they gourmet? Probably not – so best avoided unless you are desperate.

Alternatively, try Pret where their sandwiches are freshly made on the premises. Or better still find a street market where there will be all sorts of tasty filled wraps, buns and rolls inspired by cuisines from all corners of the world.

Street Vending Carts May Lack Adequate Safe Food Storage

Fast food stands rarely use top notch ingredients
Fast food stands rarely use top notch ingredients

In my view, the only time to buy a street food snack is when it is in a street food market like Maltby Street, Borough Market, or at the back of the Royal Festival Hall...or has a gazillion five star reviews on TripAdvisor, or a video review on YouTube.

I stay away from hot dog stands, caramelised nut stands etc etc. I am concerned about the quality of the ingredients and the overnight storage of fresh ingredients.

“Traditional Pubs” with Non Chalk Blackboards May Cook Their Food Only in a Microwave or Deep Fat Fryer

Unless eating at a well known gastro pub, the food may be frozen and deep-fried to order
Unless eating at a well known gastro pub, the food may be frozen and deep-fried to order

Any pub worth its salt will be heaving with people and the landlord will be run ragged.

If you see a pub that’s fake…think plastic flowers in the window boxes, the words “Traditional Pub” emblazoned in gold on the glass and a blackboard that has a painted sign instead of a real chalk board be suspicious, very suspicious.

Your meal will probably be fine but it is likely to be prepared using frozen ingredients that are deep fried or reheated in a microwave. Not what you want when you are looking for a great experience.

Here is an example of a fish and chip pub dinner. I recently had something like this. I enjoyed it but the cod was definitely a bit thin and dry and the whole thing, from the fish to the chips to the peas, had come out of bags in the deep freeze.

Fish and chips from the freezer
Fish and chips from the freezer

Food Displayed or Cooked at the Entrance of Restaurants is Aimed at Tourists

Food displayed in glass cases, or cooked at the entrance, tends to be aimed at the tourist market
Food displayed in glass cases, or cooked at the entrance, tends to be aimed at the tourist market

You’ll see these places in Leicester Square, Oxford Circus and Tottenham Court Road…the food is in display cabinets outside, or it is being cooked in the entrance of the store.

You may see pizzas on display or Chinese food being prepared in a wok. And the clientele appears to be tourists or people from out of town.

How to tell the locals from the tourists…locals will tend to be business people in tailored shirts and suiting having a working lunch or young people in fashionable street wear…the tourists are in couples, or groups, speaking their own language and often carrying shopping bags or rucksacks.

These places are aimed at the tourist market. The food will be ok-ish to eat but won’t be memorable.

If you want a Chinese, head to China Town and look for restaurants with a predominantly Chinese clientele. Or find a pizza restaurant that is famed for the quality of its food e.g. Franco Manca which sells sough dough pizza baked on the premises. Pizza Express is also one of the more reliable High Street chains.

Here is a list of our more reliable high street food chains.

The Worst Restaurants in London Often Display Food at Room Temperature

Some of the worst restaurants in London display food at air temperature for extended periods.
Some of the worst restaurants in London display food at air temperature for extended periods.

In the UK we have strict rules about how long, high risk food, can be sold at room temperature. Bacteria in food can double every few minutes when its left out on display. Best to make sure that your food is either brought to you from a refrigerator, or heated so that it is steaming.

Your Hotel’s Recommendations May be Incentivised

Hotels may be paid a commission for recommending particular restaurants
Hotels may be paid a commission for recommending particular restaurants

Hotel receptionists, doormen and concierge services are often paid to give recommendations for specific restaurants.

Of course these suggestions are unlikely to be dire as you are their guest and they will want you to have a good time. However, you will do so much better if you can ask a local person for a restaurant recommendation.  Alternatively, look at reviews on YouTube as you will often a get a video tour of the restaurant and the food.

Neon Lighting and Unwelcoming Ambience Indicate a Restaurant to Avoid

Neon lighting and backless stools may indicate that a poor quality restaurant is keen for you to eat and leave
Neon lighting and backless stools may indicate that a poor quality restaurant is keen for you to eat and leave

This is a pet peeve of mine…unless it is a 1950s diner, neon lighting strips usually communicate that a venue wants you to buy, eat and leave.

And I could add to this trendy, backless stools.

Unless you are having a fast refuelling stop, I think it is a good idea to choose somewhere with a welcoming decor that encourages you to linger a while.

There are High Risk Foods Even in High Quality Restaurants.

The foods shown below are all very high risk in terms and may cause food poisoning which is the last thing you want, especially if you are on holiday.

Exercise caution if you order them and make sure that their are either steaming hot, properly refrigerated or freshly prepared. If you choose fruit, select bananas or oranges or something that you can peel yourself. Nothing much can go wrong with an unpeeled banana.

Mayonnaise made with raw eggs is a high risk food
Mayonnaise made with raw eggs is a high risk food
Mayonnaise is made from raw eggs and needs to be kept refrigerated especially if it is fresh and without preservatives.
Chicken that hasn't been properly cooked is a serious cause of concern. This is a common practice in some of the worst restaurants in London.
Chicken that hasn’t been properly cooked is a serious cause of concern. This is a common practice in some of the worst restaurants in London.
Chicken needs to be thoroughly cooked to avoid salmonella poisoning and must be either served cold or held hot for a limited period of time.
Boiled eggs are a high risk food.
Boiled eggs are a high risk food.
Boiled eggs are protein rich and need to be kept at room temperature for only a short period e.g. the breakfast buffet or if made into sandwiches, served from a refrigerated display.
Cut fruit can be contaminated by unclean hands from serving and waiting staff
Cut fruit can be contaminated by unclean hands from serving and waiting staff
The surface of fruit may be contaminated with bacteria from either soil or people’s hands and should be washed before use.
Salads may not be adequately washed and contain soil and grit
Salads may not be adequately washed and contain soil and grit
The same is true for salads.
Salami shouldn't be left at room temperature for a long time
Salami shouldn’t be left at room temperature for a long time
And if I eat anything cold, I make sure that it has come out of a refrigerated display and is within the Use by Date printed on the packaging.
Reheated rice can cause serious food poisoning
Reheated rice can cause serious food poisoning
Rice needs to be freshly cooked, and not reheated, as it can contain toxins.
Upmarket restaurants may serve unpasteurised cheese but be aware that this is a listeria risk
Upmarket restaurants may serve unpasteurised cheese but be aware that this is a listeria risk
Unpasteurised cheese runs the risk of listeria and shouldn’t be consumed by children, vulnerable adults or pregnant women.
Undercooked burgers are a sign of a poor quality restaurant
Undercooked burgers are a sign of a poor quality restaurant

 

Burgers must never be served pink, or rare, as the mincing process increases the risk of e-coli.

I always make sure that when I’m out that my food is served very hot. Heat kills bacteria.

A Useful Tool to Help You Avoid the Worst Restaurants in London – Scores on the Doors

You may see a hygiene star rating displayed outside a restaurant. This is known as Scores on the Doors and will indicate how the restaurant fared in its last council-run food safety inspection. You can read the safety report by going to this site. A score of 3 stars or below suggests significant failings were found.

If you are eating at home or on the move you maybe interested in our blog post on popular London snacks. We also have some suggestions for cheap snacks in our post on free and nearly free things to do in London.

The Worst Rated Restaurant in London

As you will see I haven’t named names. On TripAdvisor you will see a ranking of all London restaurants.

If you would like to see an account of the worst ranked restaurant in London, you can read Archie Brydon’s story of the Palace Restaurant. He found a well meaning restauranteur who seems to have been the victim of a smear campaign.

I hope you are able to avoid the worst restaurants in London and may all your choices be safe and tastebud tantalising.

Richmond Park – A Woody Safari Among Ancient Trees

 

Richmond Park
Richmond Park

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Richmond Park in Richmond, the famed hunting ground of Henry VIII, is now maintained as a Royal Park yet it still feels wild and wooded. This year I have explored deeper into this vast expanse of nature.

The Different Regions of Richmond Park

Richmond Park comprises different regions each with their own character and attractions. Driving around the circumference road and dodging deer and cyclists, these are the ones that I have recently explored:

  • Isabella Plantation
  • Pen Ponds
  • Pembroke Lodge
  • Robin Hood Gate

Pembroke Lodge the Information Centre and Cafe of Richmond Park

Pembroke Lodge is the centre of the universe of Richmond Park. There is an information centre, a refreshment stand and  a cafe serving classic English fayre of sandwiches, cakes and scones. Behind the wrought iron gates there are elevated formal gardens with panoramic views of Richmond and the city beyond which rival nearby Kew with an abundance of seasonal colour.

Isabella Plantation a Fenced Garden in Richmond Park

This is a wooded fenced area known for its magnificent display of camellias, azaleas and daffodils with a central pond and the cutest ducks with little hats .

The Pond at the Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park
The Pond at the Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park
A Spring Camellia in bloom at the Isabella Plantation
A Spring Camellia in bloom at the Isabella Plantation

 

Pen Ponds

These ponds are a short walk on a slight incline from the Pen Ponds car park. Geese, swans and ducks follow tourists looking for forbidden contraband and bread from soft hearted folk who have decided to ignore the advice of not feeding the ducks. You almost feel that you are on holiday at an exotic lakeside destination.

Ducks and Geese at Pen Ponds
Ducks and Geese at Pen Ponds

Wild Life at Pen Ponds
Wild Life at Pen Ponds

Geese and Ducks at the Water's Edge in one of the Richmond Park Lakes
Geese and Ducks at the Water’s Edge in one of the Richmond Park Lakes

Robin Hood Gate

There’s some interesting fallen trees here with exposed roots, gnarled bark and skeletal shapes in a boggy, marshy expanse of lush grass. Great for taking nature photographs and selfies. It’s a 10- 15 minute walk up to Pen Ponds from here. On my return trek, I was ecstatic to see the herd of red deer who had come out to graze. It was like being on safari in the Serengeti. Honestly, why go to Africa when you can go to Richmond Park!

A Gnarled Tree
A Gnarled Tree

Fallen Ancient Trees
Fallen Ancient Trees

Wild Deer
Wild Deer

A grazing deer
A grazing deer

Practical Advice for Visiting Richmond Park

Car Parking

Richmond Park is free to enter and free to park (we like free!) You are invited to make a donation at card reading machines at the various car parks but this is by no means obligatory.

You can only park in the car parks and if you park elsewhere you are liable for a fine. As a result, the car parks get busy, on sunny days and at weekends you are likely to have more luck parking at the furthest car parks from Pembroke Gate. Currently, you can’t drive the full circumference of the park as the road is closed just after Isabella Plantation on the anti-clockwise stretch.

Check the opening and closing times as you don’t want to get locked in overnight. These times change according to the season.

Driving and Cycling

As you would expect, Richmond Park is  a popular cycling area…think lycra-clad, kamikaze lunatics riding in packs or on their phones. The road is narrow so overtaking is often not an option. Be patient. You don’t want to make the newspapers for all the wrong reasons.

If you are one of those cyclists Richmond Park is your oyster!

Toilets

There are toilets at most of the Richmond Park car parks but you’ll need to check a map to ensure that your chosen car park has those facilities.

Cafes

There are cafes with seating at Pembroke Lodge, Roehampton Gate and Pen Ponds. In the great British tradition, the smaller car parks usually have ice cream vans run by independent vendors. Think whipped ice creams with flakes, Magnums and Cornettos. And I spied bacon sandwiches. There’s tea, coffee and hot chocolate – perfect for a freezing day. You can find out more information about the cafe and see photos here.

Seating and Picnics

Dotted around Richmond Park are wooden park seats and fallen logs making it the ideal spot for a picnic. Fortunately, you can picnic near to your car so no need to lug your flasks and hampers for long distances. On New Year’s Day I see many people having tailgate picnics from the boot of their car.

My amazing and recent discovery is the wonder of the Stanley vacuum flask. I paid a fortune for this pricy British icon. I preheat it with boiling water for 5 minutes and then adding fresh boiling water and pack Yorkshire tea bags and fresh milk with an ice pack and I have perfect, scalding hot tea for the whole day.

For more information on Richmond Park including any seasonal updates see the official Royal Parks website.

We have some other great suggestions for free and nearly free days out. and we hope these practical tips will help you make the most of your day at Richmond Park.

If you have enjoyed this piece you may like our feature on the nearby botanical wonder  Kew Gardens.

Cockney Rhyming Slang – Use your Watch and Chain and Take our Quiz

Cockney rhyming slang is essential insider information for all Londonologists. Use your watch and chain and see if you can pass our quiz.

Cockney Rhyming Slang
Cockney Rhyming Slang. Photo Wilson Loo Kok Wee

What is Cockney Rhyming Slang?

This “secret language” was devised by canny East End market traders in the 1840s who were probably wanting to have a conversation away from nosy police men (coppers). It’s a bit like today where tourists, and second generation Londoners, revert to speaking their mother tongue on the tube in the hope that you haven’t got a clue what they are saying…and you can be sure that they are saying something scathing about your clothes or makeup.

Who are the Cockneys?

A true Cockney is anyone who is born within the sound of St Mary Le Bow Church in  Cheapside.  However, in the 1960s many people who were living in the East End of London were relocated to parts of Essex…so you may hear this accent in some of the outer London boroughs.

St Mary Le Bow church on Cheapside
St Mary Le Bow church on Cheapside. Photo by It’s No Game

How Does the Rhyming Work?

Cockney rhyming slang is probably easiest to explain with an example. If you hear someone talking about going up the apples and pears, they mean that they are going up the stairs as stairs rhymes with pears.

There are a lot of fruit examples as the original users were mainly costermongers (fruit and vegetable stall sellers).

If someone is telling porky pies they are telling lies.

In some cases the rhyming word is omitted from the expression. So if someone is having a look, it may be referred to as a butcher’s, as look rhymes with butcher’s hook.

Not all rhyming slang is a simple rhyme. You may hear someone saying that you are having a giraffe meaning that you are having a laugh.

Learn More About Cockney Rhyming Slang

You can find out more about London’s famous secret language on the Cockney Rhyming Slang website. This site has an awesome Cockney Lorem Ipsum (placeholder text) generator as well as a blog and a Cockney Translator.

The Guardian has, helpfully, provided not only a list of the most common Cockney rhyming slang examples but examined the social implications of the phrases e.g the slang for Army and Navy is gravy because gravy was commonly eaten at mealtimes.

As you are interested in London history, you may want to know why all our cultural icons e.g. buses and mail boxes are red.

Test Your Understanding of  Cockney Rhyming Slang

Here at Londonology, we have devised a clever little quiz for you to test your understanding of Cockney rhyming slang. In truth, we would be amazed if you didn’t get full marks but you never know!

/10
1 votes, 5 avg
133
Created on

Cockney rhyming slang

Could you pass as an East Ender? Test your ability to understand Cockney Rhyming Slang.

1 / 10

You are in a pub and the landlord asks if you would like a Fine and Dandy. How would you reply?

2 / 10

Your new suit is a bit loose on you and your father in law asks if you are going to visit Sinbad the Sailor. What does he want to know?

3 / 10

You fall over on our uneven cobbled pavements and an old man hollers that you have ripped your Uncle Bert. What is he referring to?

4 / 10

You've asked for the loo and you are told that they are up the apples and pears. Where are the lavatories?

5 / 10

You've gone to the barber who wants to know if you want to keep your strange and weird. How do you reply?

6 / 10

The man next to you at the opera loves the tenor's dot and dash. What is he complimenting?

7 / 10

You've gone to a wedding in the East End and a friend comments that you are wearing a fine Tin of Fruit. What are you wearing?

8 / 10

You have a lot of stubble on your chin. Your girlfriend suggests that you need an ocean wave. What does she mean?

9 / 10

You are out for a night with your new mates and when it comes to buying your round the bar tender asks if you are paying with Bangers and Mash. What does he want to know?

10 / 10

You have paid an outrageous amount for a capuccino. Your friend exclaims, "How much did you pay? A Lady Godiva!" How much does your friend think that your coffee cost?

Your score is

0%

Please rate this quiz

The Churchill War Rooms Review – A Thrilling Journey into How a War Was Planned

Churchill War Rooms Review

 

Churchill War Rooms Review
Churchill War Rooms Review

The Churchill War Rooms has a lot to recommend it. You’ll love it if you lack the bottle to visit the Imperial War Museum.  There is no blood, guts or shocking sights for the squeamish.

How the Churchill War Rooms Came Into Being

The Churchill War Rooms were created after, Winston Churchill, our most esteemed second world war prime minister, had a close brush with death when the rear of Downing Street was bombed in an air raid. This rendered his kitchen to rubble and nearly killed his cook who a few minutes earlier was lovingly tending to a pudding.

 

Feelers were put out for a suitable bomb proof location for the cabinet to plan the war effort and the chosen bunker was the basement of the nearby Treasury Building.

 

Following VE Day (Victory in Europe Day) on 8 May 1945, the lights of the Churchill War Rooms were turned out and everything in this secret underground headquarters was left in situ; picked in aspic as it were:

  • maps
  • documents
  • equipment
  • furniture
  • kitchen appliances and condiments
  • chamber pots
  • even somebody’s war rationed sugar cubes

 

In the 1980’s another famous prime minister, the Iron Lady (“this lady is not for turning”), Margaret Thatcher championed the initiative to get the war rooms opened to the public.

 

And this is the treat that is in store for you…

Exterior of the Churchill War Rooms
Exterior of the Churchill War Rooms

 

Lap in the air, as you take a breezy walk through St James’s Park replete with its cheeky sandwich hunting squirrels, gliding ducks and towering trees.  It’s a rude awakening to arrive at the steps on King Charles Street and go down the hatch to the cellar where you will spend the next few hours.

 

With its narrow corridors and low lighting you think that this is going to be an expensive, murky, boring, damp squib of a place. Then step by step you become thrilled by the immensity of it.

 

Inside this warren of narrow passages and rooms lies a whole underground community of what would have been 500 people who all needed to work, eat, sleep, pee and plot the war. I saw no bathrooms and as many of them smoked (and at least one smoked a cigar) you can only imagine how fetid and obnoxious the air would have been in this windowless space.

 

The cabinet meeting rooms, the map room and the radio telephony rooms will thrill war buffs especially when we contrast it to the sophisticated technology that is at play today in the Russian Ukrainian conflict. The success of the second world war was dependent on low tech, crackly radio systems, coded messages and a paper map room with pins denoting enemy positions.

The Map Room in Churchill War Rooms
The Map Room in Churchill War Rooms

Churchill as a Bon Viveur

Almost more enticing than the war planning effort is the museum’s homage to the life of Winston Churchill. We see a man with a high degree of confidence in his importance and abilities.

Churchill was a gourmand who liked the finer things in life.

“I am easily satisfied, I like the best”

Winston Churchill

The best comprised hats from the Royal Warrant holder’s Lock & Co, suits from Turnbull and Asser,  Cuban cigars from Romeo y Julieta and copious amounts of Pol Roger champagne.

 

War Time Rationing

These were the days of war time rationing which spared no one from the lowliest, hungry and ragged urban dweller to the monarch and the prime minister. Churchill ensured he was spared the worst privations by obtaining dairy produce, vegetables and meat from his country estates. This allowed him to not only maintain his portly physique but to entertain lavishly.

 

Churchill’s Private Kitchen

The private kitchen in the Churchill War Rooms is nothing more than a bleak cupboard. The kitchen utensils, relics of a bygone era and fit for nothing but a junk shop were state of the art back then – enamelled double boilers and dangerous gas grills.

Churchill's Personal Kitchen in the Churchill War Rooms
Churchill’s Personal Kitchen in the Churchill War Rooms

The Cabinet’s Private Quarters

In an age, when we reject houses and hotels that lack ensuites and duck down duvets we see row upon row of bedrooms which housed everyone from his detectives in bunk beds to senior politicians – the size of the room denoting the status of the incumbent. All were kitted out with similar beds, dowdy wool blankets and chamber pots. His wife, Clementine Churchill’s room had the sole touch of femininity, a comfy chair with a floral linen loose cover.

The Detective's Room with Bunk Beds in the Sleeping quarters of the Churchill War Rooms.
The Detective’s Room with Bunk Beds in the Sleeping quarters of the Churchill War Rooms.

Churchill’s Decoy Toilet

The volunteer guide was keen to show me “Churchill’s toilet”. A wooden door with its familiar Vacant/Engaged sign which was typical of any public toilet of the time…and when you turn the corner you see that it is a decoy front to a sound proofed room where Churchill could conduct conversations with America on the progress of the war.

Churchill's "Private Lavatory"
Churchill’s “Private Lavatory”
The lavatory door is a decoy to a private telephone
The lavatory door is a decoy to a private telephone

 

The Churchill Exhibition Space

It is important to pace yourself as you move through the museum as just when your energies start to wane and you think that you have seen it all – you find yourself in a massive museum exhibition space choc-full of fascinating ephemera, war posters, photographs and exhibits that include Churchills favourite lounging outfit which was a red velvet jump suit and film footage of his funeral cortege at St Paul’s.

The Churchill Exhibition is after the underground bunker part of the Churchill War Rooms
The Churchill Exhibition is after the underground bunker part of the Churchill War Rooms

Churchill in the Popular Imagination

It is interesting to note that had Churchill died a few months prior to VE Day in 1945 he would have been regarded as a cantankerous man who had failed the country (we were at the time losing the war effort) and who made more enemies than friends.  And here he is now in the popular imagination as our greatest stateman and the object of emulation by countless prime ministers from Margaret Thatcher to Boris Johnson.

The Churchill War Rooms Museum Shop

In days gone by, London museum shops used to contain a lot of plastic tat made in Hong Kong alongside a pitiful selection of faded, dog-eared postcards.

 

So the Churchill War Rooms Museum Shop must be commended on a delightful selection of upmarket mementos that include aged scotch whiskey, wrist watches, leather aviator jackets and homburg hats, alongside the to-be-expected war posters, fridge magnets and book marks.

 

My Personal Favourites From the Churchill War Rooms Museum Shop

If I had to pick a couple of things to buy it would be the leather ladies’ gloves with their blue, red and white circular air-force insignia at £50 and Churchill’s Cookbook by his personal cook Georgina Landemare at £12.99.

Ladies Gloves with Insignia
Ladies Gloves with Insignia

 

Churchill's Cookbook
Churchill’s Cookbook

 

I was shocked when thumbing through the cookbook to find a recipe for Potage Argenteuil. What could this delectable soup (named after a Paris suburb) be? I was horrified that a soup destined to feed six people was made from nothing more than the water used to cook asparagus, a handful of rice, a few sorrel leaves (an largely unknown lemony herb) and a solitary egg yolk. You can see how Churchill’s cook, Georgina Landemare, with her skills in stretching food, was pivotal in ensuring that the cabinet won the war.

 

Best Time to Visit the Churchill War Room

If you are an early bird, try and get there as soon as it opens at 9.30 am (check the current opening times here). It gets busy at lunch time and then the crowds tail off by 3pm. Bear in mind that the weekends and the summer season are always going to be busier than the winter season and weekdays.

 

How Long to Visit

Most people spend at least a couple of hours in the museum. There is a very good audio guide that comes with the ticket (with a special audio guide for children).  If you listen to the information on each of the numbered exhibits this could take 1.5-2 hours plus you will need time for a coffee break and examining the artefacts in the Churchill exhibition. A serious war and Churchill buff could be here for 4 hours and then want to return!

 

Churchill War Rooms Cafe

The café specialises in British food…think tarts, cakes and sandwiches. It’s more of a place for a pit stop than a gourmet meal. The coffee comes very highly recommended and this may be just what you need to keep going.

 

The café is located in a room that was used by the switchboard operators during the second world war and is open from 10am – 5pm.  As it is inside the museum it is only accessible to paying visitors.

 

As an alternative, I would head to the Regency Café in Pimlico which is short walk to the museum. Have the old fashioned English fry up (English Breakfast) to get in the mood. Nothing like eggs, bacon, baked beans and rubbery white bread slathered with butter and marmalade to fortify yourself for this uniquely British experience of the Churchill War Rooms.

 

And at the end of your trip walk through the park to St James’ and experience the splendour of The Wolseley with its enormous windows and view of Piccadilly. This maybe a nice counterbalance to the museum and they serve and excellent afternoon tea.

Ticket Prices

Most of our museums are free but the Churchill War Rooms costs a whopping (to us) £27 per person so it could work out at just shy of £100 for a family of 2 adults and 2 children, if you include the voluntary donation.

It is possible to buy tickets in advance. Try a search for a promo code (Google Churchill War Rooms promo code/code/2for1.

Alternatively, the museum is included with the London Pass.

You could also reduce the cost by buying an IWM membership. This would give you free entry to other charging IWM sites including IWM Duxford  and HMS Belfast.  IWM Membership allows visitors to return free of charge throughout the year so this is ideal if you live in the city or holiday here frequently.

Closest Tube Station to the Churchill War Rooms

The closest tube station to Churchill War Rooms is Westminster station (Circle, Jubilee, District Line).

To Find Out More about Churchill and the Churchill War Rooms

To find out more about Churchill and the Churchill War Rooms watch The Darkest Hour .

If you enjoyed this piece about the Churchill War Rooms, be sure to check out our blog post on the Charles Dickens Museum.

 

 

 

 

 

Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch Review

The Les 110 Taillevent lunch menu

Les 110 de Taillevent has one of the most exclusive lunch menus in London. Treat yourself to exquisite food accompanied by one of 110 wines served by the glass in a luxe gentleman’s club style setting. 

As one of a stout and portly disposition, I find myself visiting a Wimpole Street nutritionist on the regular. We spend an hour discussing the perils of eating French fries, bread and other evil carbs all the while taking measurements, body composition and blood pressure. At the end of my appointment, I find a nice restaurant to while away a few hours as I then have a full month before I subject myself to the same medical ordeal.

Les 110 de Taillevent

 

 

The Les 110 Taillevent lunch menu displayed outside on its iron railings.
The Les 110 Taillevent lunch menu displayed outside on its iron railings.

 

History

To be fully armed you need to have some understanding of Les 110 Taillevent history. It is the sister restaurant of the iconic Michelin starred restaurant Le Taillevent in Paris  which serves classical gastronomic French food. Les 110 Taillevent is famous for its wines and has won a procession of awards for fine wine, young sommelier and best restaurant. It is the very  antithesis of showy, gaudy and fashionista dining…it exudes classical and refined elegance in everything from decor to the froth on the coffee.

 

Location

So it was with some delight that I found Les 110 de Taillevent conveniently positioned nearby on the corner of Harley Street and overlooking Cavendish Square – a mere stone’s throw from the rear of John Lewis, Oxford Street and a convenient five-minute walk from the Elizabeth Line Hanover Square exit.

Entrance to Les 110 Taillevent
Entrance to Les 110 Taillevent

Ambiance

Les 110 de Taillevent has a reassuringly subdued stone exterior with gilded signage and neat outdoor seating under calico umbrellas.  The interior is a classy moss green reminiscent of a gentleman’s club.

Moss green gentleman's club interior of Les 110 Taillevant.
Moss green gentleman’s club interior of Les 110 Taillevant.

 

On this occasion, I enticed my nutritionist to lunch where we imbibed and munched through the very dishes and beverages that she had just spent an hour advising me not to eat.

 

 

The Legendary Wine List

 

110 wines are available by the glass at lunch.
110 wines are available by the glass at lunch.

Les 110 Taillevent is noted for its cellar with 110 wines served by the glass. I left my doctor friend to ponder this extensive selection and she chose well. We had a leggy, full-bodied Côtes du Rhône, Le Clos du Caillou, 2016 which had smooth, smoke and pepper notes.

Lunch Hours

The Les 110 Taillevent Lunch Menu is served from 12.00 to 14.30  Monday to Friday and contains a la carte menu plates.

Service

The first thing that strikes you about Les 110 Taillevent is the service which is suited in monochrome, discreet and friendly. Despite arriving without a reservation, the manager was  keen to offer us his best available table with a view over Harley Street.

Bread

Crusty bread and salted whipped butter
Crusty bread and salted whipped butter

My doctor friend and I looked longingly at the hot bread and whipped salted butter which is on the diet verboten list. The waiter gave us a little nudge and told us it was amazing and we were like runners off a starting block. The bread was chewy and flavoursome and the sweet butter had a mousse consistency and which was offset by flaked sea salt.

 

Complimentary Canapes

Complimentary canapés of cheese gougere and smoked salmon and avocado mousse tart.
Complimentary canapés of cheese gougere and smoked salmon and avocado mousse tart.

The complimentary canapes of salmon and avocado and cheese puffs, precision arranged on a grey slate, were a tasty portend of things to come.

 

Starters

Squid in broth a jewelled work of art.
Squid in broth a jewelled work of art.

On the day that we visited Les 110 Taillevent there was a choice of a Cashew Nut Soup with marcona almonds, kohlrabi and seasonal fruits or Squid with bell pepper, chorizo, courgette in a butter sauce to start.

 

Our starter arrived in huge black rimmed saucers. There was nothing visually resembling squid on the plate. It looked like a bowl of gem stones garnished with black lace. The creamy broth was liberally spattered with red onion, courgette and flat parsley and garnished with delicate sheet seaweed. It was as delicious as it was visually stunning.

 

Mains

The Les 110 Taillevent lunch mains include Welsh cuts of lamb individually and perfectly cooked.
The Les 110 Taillevent lunch mains include Welsh cuts of lamb individually and perfectly cooked.

The menu choices were Welsh Lamb Saddle with aubergine, yoghurt, blackcurrant and a lamb jus or Cod with heritage tomatoes, basil in a tomato broth.

 

Our lamb was cooked to tender perfection- various lamb cuts were individually cooked some caramelised with slivers of fat, others stewed and rolled or pan fried to a perfect pink with a floral garnish and accompanied by a jug of hot jus.

 

If I am to criticise anything in this otherwise perfect meal, I would suggest that the mains could be served with a vegetable garnish.

 

We shared a side dish of glazed tenderstem broccoli with sesame seeds which was extra to the set lunch menu. This was neither chewy or al dente and the glaze and sesame seeds provided an interesting oriental flavour.

 

 

Desserts

The signature 70% chocolate mousse was the perfect ending to our Les 110 Taillevent lunch.
The signature 70% chocolate mousse was the perfect ending to our Les 110 Taillevent lunch.

I was delighted to see their signature chocolate mousse with a 70% hot chocolate sauce on the Les 110 Taillevant lunch menu. The other choice was their Cox apple terrine flavoured with cinnamon and a Granny Smith sorbet.

 

Recalling my doctor’s earlier advice, we discussed for a nano second sharing a dessert. Fortunately, we came quickly to our senses. Our waiter was most reassuring and agreed that when out at lunch we should eat exactly what we fancy.

 

When the plate of chocolate pudding topped with a quenelle of chocolate mousse and hot chocolate sauce arrived we knew we had made the right call. The distinct but complimentary chocolate textures were a tastebud operetta.

 

Coffee

Les 110 Taillevent prepare a black Americano with a perfect crema and smooth taste
Les 110 Taillevent prepare a black Americano with a perfect crema and smooth taste

Black Americanos were a final and ineffectual nod to our diets. These were smooth with a pleasing crema.

 

Complimentary Petit Fours

We were presented with delicate brioches topped with a piping of chocolate mousse and juicy jellies garnished with gold leaf…perfect mouthfuls.

 

 

Bill

The bill was in the region of £190 and included service. While it is not the cheapest lunch in the vicinity it is doubtless the most elegant.

 


Have you enjoyed our Les 110 Taillevent lunch review? You may also like our review of the Brasserie Zedel Set Menus. Brasserie Zedel is a beautiful Art Deco restaurant in the heart of Piccadilly.  It is at the other end of the lunch budget spectrum.


Walking Off the Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch

I parted company from my doctor who needed to get back to work. The Wallace Collections is a gentle stroll from here and houses delightful paintings. Browsing in Daunt Books may also be a fun post prandial activity.

 


We have more suggestions on how to spend a pleasant few hours in the nearby vicinity of Marylebone.  See our post on Marylebone on a Budget.


 

Our Verdict on the Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch

 

We had a lovely, un-rushed afternoon with all the attention that you would expect in private dining room.  While the set lunch is not cheap, it represents good value for such an elegant venue. The food presentation is exquisite. Delicate garnishes were tweezered and arranged into a veritable Monet work of art.

 

Contact Details for Les 110 de Taillevent lunch

Address

Les 110 de Taillevent
16 Cavendish Square
London W1G 9DD

Telephone

+44 20 3141 6016

Website

Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch Menu

The Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch Menu is served from Monday to Saturday: 12pm to 2:30pm

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where to have coffee and cake in London? – Ask a Londoner

Coffee and cake in London.
Coffee and cake in London.

Having coffee and cake in London is one of life’s greatest pleasures. You look forward to it all morning and commence your prowl through London streets hoping to stumble upon the perfect place with the most enticing of selections.

 

Coffee and Cake in London

Your chosen spot for coffee and cake in London needs to have just the right mix of patisserie, fruit selections, chocolate concoctions and iced sponge cakes. Now before you get excited, I have never found such an establishment and I know London quite well. The cake situation is divided pretty much into cafes which sell old fashioned English cakes  e.g. Victoria sponge, carrot cake, coffee and walnut cake and Bakewell tart. And more predominantly, there are French style patisseries that serve croissants, fruit tarts and mille feuille.

 

Choose London Cafes with Great Ambience Near Interesting Locations

Good cakes are never the only consideration when hunting down coffee and cake in London; we also need to factor in  location and ambience…there’s no point in hounding the most exquisite cakes if they are served in a dingy, greasy spoon cafe in the back of beyond.

In the summer, there is nothing more delightful than sitting outside with a great London street view and watching people walk past casting admiring glances at your thoughtfully chosen cake.

 

Select Quality Coffee in Porcelain cups and Tea Served in Teapots

Honestly, I am not the sort of person who can tell a good coffee from a bad one. However, tea is a different story. Most cafes serving coffee and cake in London worth their salt will at least offer an English Breakfast tea and an Earl Grey. But I like to go for a pot of tea…none of those paper cups for me, thank you.


If your preferred tipple is tea instead of coffee why not check out our posts on where to buy tea in London and this particularly delicious London Roast tea blend from Postcard Teas.


So let’s get into it

 

The Connaught Patisserie in Mount Street, Mayfair

Very expensive, exquisite looking London cake concoctions

An embossed napkin at The Connaught Patisserie.
An embossed napkin at The Connaught Patisserie.
The cherry cake at The Connaught Patisserie.
The cherry cake at The Connaught Patisserie.

I had to try the Connaught Patisserie’s coffee and cake, having watched various YouTubers sample the jaw dropping selection and reporting on their equally astonishing prices.

The cakes are works of art category. Many are garnished in gold leaf. And at £16 plus service you’d expect them to be encrusted with gem stones.

I ordered a diminutive decaffeinated cappuccino coffee and the cherry cake with a cherry marmalade, pastry cream and topped with half a dozen perfectly sliced fresh cherries all atop a crunchy biscuit base.

Knowing the bill would be horrific, I just tapped my card without looking. I have just checked my bank account and I paid nearly £27.

Their clientele is mostly Middle Eastern. I got chatting to a lady next to me who was enjoying her strawberry cake. I asked her why there were so many Arabs in this area and she explained that the temperatures in Saudia Arabia were averaging 50c per day and many Saudis came over to London for the summer to escape the heat. They either stayed in their Mayfair holiday home or one of the local hotels. I love the diversity of London.

I asked her about paying these extortionate prices. She sounded surprised. Was this really expensive for coffee and cake in London? This establishment definitely caters for those where money is no object.

The cafe itself is small and modern in a Barbie pink and with great service.

I would say to get the full experience you need to get there in the morning when the cakes are looking their best and there is a full selection. You won’t want to pay £16-£20 for a cake with a dried out topping and then be rushed out of the door at closing time.

The Connaught Patisserie, Carlos Place Mayfair London W1K 2AL

La Fromagerie in Moxon Street, Marylebone

Surprisingly good value coffee and homemade cakes in a friendly atmosphere

The carrot cake at La Fromagerie.
The carrot cake at La Fromagerie.
My slice of carrot cake and coffee served in the La Fromagerie cafe
My slice of carrot cake and coffee served in the La Fromagerie cafe

I have featured the cafe at La Fromagerie on my blog previously. It is an artisanal grocer which specialises in expertly sourced produce. They have a small bakery selection in the back of the shop where you can choose your cake and then sit in the cafe and ask to be brought a slice and a coffee.

The cakes are hand made and use top quality ingredients. The prices are reasonable at approx £4.50 for a generous slice of crumbly, carrot cake with a buttery icing. I spotted some nice looking fresh fruit cakes and chocolate tortes: making a decision was difficult.

There are a few outside tables but I prefer to sit at the back chatting to the staff and customers…everyone I have met exudes bonhomie. This is one of the best places for a coffee and a cake in London.


While you are having your coffee and cake, why not take our quiz on Cockney Rhyming Slang?


La Fromagerie, 2 – 4 Moxon Street, London, W1U 4EW

Wa Japanese Patisserie in Covent Garden and Ealing Broadway

Moderately priced for fantastic quality, stylish coffee and cakes in London

White sesame cheesecake at Wa Patisserie. This is divine.
White sesame cheesecake at Wa Patisserie. This is divine.

Wa produces the most exquisite French style patisserie with a Japanese twist.

Over the years, I have probably had all of their creations…my favourites are their white sesame cheese cake with its black sesame seed base and the Mont Blanc (chestnut cream). If you are one of those peculiar matcha lovers you will delight in their matcha tiramisu and matcha roll.

Chocolate and Praline Cake at Wa Patisserie. One of the most delicious cakes in London.
Chocolate and Praline Cake at Wa Patisserie.One of the most delicious cakes in London.

I have found Londoners grumbling about the prices here but honestly for such expertly created, stylish and photographable cakes, I will happily pay £5-7 a slice.

If you are interested in living dangerously they have a few unique and delicious sweet breads. While not stricty a cake, their An Pan is a soft white bread filled with a sweet, red Azuki bean filling. Bizarre but delicious. Are you brave enough to try their Yakisoba pan with its home cooked noodle filling topped with seaweed and dried fish flakes? At £3.20 it could be worth the risk.

The service in this coffee and cake spot is charming in a uniquely Japanese way. I love their pottery crockery and the zen-clean, white space flecked with gold lights and wood tables.

Wa – Ealing Broadway 32 Haven Green Ealing, London, W5 2NX

Wa – Covent Garden 5 New Row London, WC2N 4LH

Paul in Piccadilly and Paternoster Square

Very reasonable prices and reliable high quality coffee and cake in London with some great locations

Paul for good value, high quality pastries.
Paul for good value, high quality pastries.

Paul may be an odd choice for the best coffee and cake in London as it is a chain bakery and cafe. However, their cakes are reliably good and rival those of the best hotels

Paul’s overlooking St Pauls Cathedral is a great find with outside tables in the historic courtyard. You get that London vibe with delicious cake at favourable prices.

Paul’s on Piccadilly is another marvellous location. If there are no outside tables, I take my cake as a takeaway and buy coffee next door at Pret.  Sandwiched between the glories of the Royal Academy and the Ritz and  just a short stroll to Fortnum and Mason and the Hatchards book shop…what more could any one want?

PAUL St. Paul’s, 2 Paternoster Square, London EC4M 7DX

PAUL Piccadilly Unit 6 Piccadilly Arcade & 173 Piccadilly,  London
SW1Y 6NH

 

 


If you have enjoyed this piece on coffee and cake in London, why not look at our post on London’s best dessert. You may also want to explore our traditional puddings and the history behind them.


 

 

As usual, I have personally tried each of these recommendations. I hope that I have given you some inspiration of where to sample some of the best coffee and cakes in London.