Ultimate Guide to Richmond Park, Richmond: A Nature Lover’s Paradise

Richmond Park Richmond
Richmond Park Richmond

Exploring the Serene Beauty of Richmond Park: A Hidden Gem in Richmond

Richmond Park in Richmond is one of London’s most cherished green spaces, offering a perfect escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a history buff, an enthusiastic photographer or just looking for a relaxing day out, Richmond Park has something for everyone. In this guide, we’ll explore everything you need to know about visiting this iconic park.

So, pack your walking shoes, bring your camera, and prepare to be enchanted by the serene beauty of this hidden gem in Richmond.

A Brief History of Richmond Park

Richmond Park, located in the London Borough of Richmond was originally established in the 17th Century by King Charles I as a deer hunting ground.

Spanning over 2,500 acres, it is the largest of London’s Royal Parks. Today, it’s a designated National Nature Reserve and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), attracting millions of visitors each year.

How to Get to Richmond Park, Richmond

By Public Transport

Richmond Park is easily accessible from Central London. You can take the District Line or South Western Railway to Richmond Station. From there, hop on a bus (routes 371 or 65) or take a 20-minute up-hill walk to the park’s main entrances.

By Car

If you’re driving, there are multiple gates where you can enter Richmond Park, such as Sheen Gate, Richmond Gate, and Kingston Gate. Parking is available inside the park, but it can fill up quickly on weekends and sunny days, so arriving early is recommended.

 

Things to Do in Richmond Park

1. Spot the Famous Deer

Richmond Park is home to over 600 red and fallow deer, which roam freely throughout the park. These majestic creatures have been residents of Richmond Park since it was created. For the best chance of spotting them, head to areas like Pen Ponds or just outside the fenced off Isabella Plantation.  Remember to keep a safe distance, especially during the rutting season (September to November).

2. Explore the Isabella Plantation

One of the park’s hidden spots is the Isabella Plantation, a 40-acre woodland garden known for its stunning display of flowers, particularly in spring when the azaleas and rhododendrons are in full bloom. It’s a tranquil spot perfect for a peaceful stroll. There are also some cute hatted ducks in the pond.

3. Take a Walk or Cycle Around the Park

Richmond Park offers numerous walking and cycling trails, catering to all levels of fitness. The Tamsin Trail, a 7.35-mile circular path, is popular among cyclists, joggers, and walkers. You can also explore the park on horseback, with riding schools like Stag Lodge Stables offering guided horse-riding tours.

4. Enjoy Panoramic Views from King Henry’s Mound

For breathtaking views of London’s skyline, head to King Henry’s Mound adjacent to Pembroke Lodge. On a clear day, you can see as far as St Paul’s Cathedral. This historic viewpoint is said to be where King Henry VIII watched for the signal announcing Anne Boleyn’s execution.

5. Discover the Ancient Oaks near Robin Hood Gate

There’s some interesting fallen trees near Robin Hood Gate with exposed roots, gnarled bark and skeletal shapes in a boggy, marshy expanse of lush grass. Great for taking nature photographs and selfies. It’s a 10- 15 minute walk up to Pen Ponds from here. On my return trek, I was ecstatic to see the herd of red deer who had come out to graze. It was like being on safari in the Serengeti. Honestly, why go to Africa when you can go to Richmond Park!

 

Where to Eat and Drink in Richmond Park

While there are no large restaurants within the park itself, there are several charming cafes where you can grab a bite to eat.

Pembroke Lodge

Located on Richmond Hill, Pembroke Lodge is a popular spot for afternoon tea with stunning views over the Thames Valley. The lodge has a lovely café and outdoor seating, making it a great place to relax after exploring the park. The menu isn’t large but includes things like hot soup, jacket potatoes, sandwiches and desserts and cakes. They also serve popular warm scones with clotted cream and jam and 12 different types of tea.

Roehampton Café

For a more casual option, stop by Roehampton Café near Roehampton Gate. It’s perfect for a quick snack, offering sandwiches, hot drinks, and ice cream.

On most of the park gates there are mobile vendors offering ice cream, hot drinks and snacks. In terms of seating there are numerous large fallen trees in hideaway places or park benches.

Tips for Visiting Richmond Park

Best Time to Visit

The park is open year round but early mornings are the best time to experience its tranquility and see wildlife.

Accessibility

Richmond Park is wheel-chair friendly with accessible paths and disabled parking spaces available at several car parks.

Dog Friendly

Dogs are welcome in the park but be mindful of the deer and keep your dog on a lead in areas where signs indicate.

Photography

Richmond Park offers fantastic photography opportunities. sunrise and sunset are the best times for capturing stunning landscapes and wild life. The golden hours of sunrise and sunset provide the most flattering light, casting a warm glow over the scenery. Early mornings are particularly magical, as the mist settles over the grasslands, creating an ethereal atmosphere perfect for landscape photography.

For wildlife photography, the areas around Pen Ponds and the meadows are fantastic, where you can capture deer, birds, and other wildlife in their natural habitats.

Car Parking

Richmond Park is free to enter and free to park. You are invited to make a donation at card reading machines at the various car parks but this is by no means obligatory.

You can only park in the car parks and if you park elsewhere you are liable for a fine. As a result, the car parks get busy, on sunny days and at weekends you are likely to have more luck parking at the furthest car parks from Pembroke Gate.

Check the opening and closing times as you don’t want to get locked in overnight. These times change according to the season.

Toilets

There are toilets at most of the Richmond Park car parks but you’ll need to check a map to ensure that your chosen car park has those facilities.

 

A fallen oak tree in Richmond Park
A fallen aak tree in Richmond Park
The Pond at the Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park
The Pond at the Isabella Plantation in Richmond Park
A Spring Camellia in bloom at the Isabella Plantation
A Spring Camellia in bloom at the Isabella Plantation

Wild Life at Pen Ponds
Wild Life at Pen Ponds

Geese and Ducks at the Water's Edge in one of the Richmond Park Lakes
Geese and Ducks at the Water’s Edge in one of the Richmond Park Lakes

Ducks and Geese at Pen Ponds
Ducks and Geese at Pen Ponds
A grazing deer
A grazing deer

Fallen Ancient Trees
Fallen Ancient Trees

 


If you are enjoying this blog post you may like our feature on the nearby botanical wonder  Kew Gardens.


Nearby Attractions in Richmond, London

If you’re looking to extend your visit, Richmond itself is full of charming attractions. Take a leisurely stroll along the River Thames, visit the historic Richmond Theatre, or explore the stunning Kew Gardens, which are just a short distance away.

Conclusion

I have personally visited Richmond Park many times and at different seasons. I once had a memorable New Year’s Day here watching the local, wealthy residents enjoying their tailgate picnics with the air misty and nippy and their flasks steaming. During the Covid  pandemic, I road tested my own Stanley vacuum flask filled with boiling water for tea and taking a lunch beautifully arranged in a Japanese bento box. In May, I felt I was on my own personal African safari when I spotted the deer shown in the above photographs. The great things about Richmond Park, in my view, are the sheer expanse of nature which is as far as the eye can see. The fact that the car parks and entry is free makes a big difference. Where else in London can you have a totally free and memorable day out? And I get a particular thrill when I remember that this is the famed hunting ground of Henry VIII.

So whether you’re looking for a peaceful walk, a picnic with friends, or a chance to spot deer in the wild, this park has it all.

If you enjoyed this guide, don’t forget to subscribe to our blog for more London travel tips!


We have some other great suggestions for free and nearly free days out. and we hope these practical tips will help you make the most of your day at Richmond Park.


For more information on Richmond Park including any seasonal updates see the official Royal Parks website.


Cockney Rhyming Slang – Use your Watch and Chain and Take our Quiz

Cockney rhyming slang is essential insider information for all Londonologists. Use your watch and chain and see if you can pass our quiz.

Cockney Rhyming Slang
Cockney Rhyming Slang. Photo Wilson Loo Kok Wee

What is Cockney Rhyming Slang?

This “secret language” was devised by canny East End market traders in the 1840s who were probably wanting to have a conversation away from nosy police men (coppers). It’s a bit like today where tourists, and second generation Londoners, revert to speaking their mother tongue on the tube in the hope that you haven’t got a clue what they are saying…and you can be sure that they are saying something scathing about your clothes or makeup.

Who are the Cockneys?

A true Cockney is anyone who is born within the sound of St Mary Le Bow Church in  Cheapside.  However, in the 1960s many people who were living in the East End of London were relocated to parts of Essex…so you may hear this accent in some of the outer London boroughs.

St Mary Le Bow church on Cheapside
St Mary Le Bow church on Cheapside. Photo by It’s No Game

How Does the Rhyming Work?

Cockney rhyming slang is probably easiest to explain with an example. If you hear someone talking about going up the apples and pears, they mean that they are going up the stairs as stairs rhymes with pears.

There are a lot of fruit examples as the original users were mainly costermongers (fruit and vegetable stall sellers).

If someone is telling porky pies they are telling lies.

In some cases the rhyming word is omitted from the expression. So if someone is having a look, it may be referred to as a butcher’s, as look rhymes with butcher’s hook.

Not all rhyming slang is a simple rhyme. You may hear someone saying that you are having a giraffe meaning that you are having a laugh.

Learn More About Cockney Rhyming Slang

You can find out more about London’s famous secret language on the Cockney Rhyming Slang website. This site has an awesome Cockney Lorem Ipsum (placeholder text) generator as well as a blog and a Cockney Translator.

The Guardian has, helpfully, provided not only a list of the most common Cockney rhyming slang examples but examined the social implications of the phrases e.g the slang for Army and Navy is gravy because gravy was commonly eaten at mealtimes.

As you are interested in London history, you may want to know why all our cultural icons e.g. buses and mail boxes are red.

Test Your Understanding of  Cockney Rhyming Slang

Here at Londonology, we have devised a clever little quiz for you to test your understanding of Cockney rhyming slang. In truth, we would be amazed if you didn’t get full marks but you never know!

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Cockney rhyming slang

Could you pass as an East Ender? Test your ability to understand Cockney Rhyming Slang.

1 / 10

You've asked for the loo and you are told that they are up the apples and pears. Where are the lavatories?

2 / 10

You have a lot of stubble on your chin. Your girlfriend suggests that you need an ocean wave. What does she mean?

3 / 10

You are out for a night with your new mates and when it comes to buying your round the bar tender asks if you are paying with Bangers and Mash. What does he want to know?

4 / 10

You've gone to the barber who wants to know if you want to keep your strange and weird. How do you reply?

5 / 10

You fall over on our uneven cobbled pavements and an old man hollers that you have ripped your Uncle Bert. What is he referring to?

6 / 10

You have paid an outrageous amount for a capuccino. Your friend exclaims, "How much did you pay? A Lady Godiva!" How much does your friend think that your coffee cost?

7 / 10

You are in a pub and the landlord asks if you would like a Fine and Dandy. How would you reply?

8 / 10

Your new suit is a bit loose on you and your father in law asks if you are going to visit Sinbad the Sailor. What does he want to know?

9 / 10

The man next to you at the opera loves the tenor's dot and dash. What is he complimenting?

10 / 10

You've gone to a wedding in the East End and a friend comments that you are wearing a fine Tin of Fruit. What are you wearing?

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Queen Mary’s Rose Garden – A Sublime Floral Display

 

Queen Mary's Rose Garden
Queen Mary’s Rose Garden

The Queen Mary’s Rose Garden is living proof that anyone can have an experience of a lifetime in London free of charge. These historic gardens containing thousands of roses are an area of peace and tranquility that feed the soul. Come here on a warm Spring day in late May or early June to see the roses when they are at their best.

 

 

I often visit after a trip to the nearby Regents Park Open Air Theatre but there is nothing to stop you bringing a book and a picnic and lying in the sun surrounded by beauty.  Copy the Victorians and make Queen Mary’s Rose Garden it a place to see and be seen.

 

 

What is Queen Mary’s Rose Garden Famous for?

In a single word, roses…to be precise, 12,000 of them, contained in 85 single variety beds. Each year 3 of these beds are replaced with a new variety.

Queen Mary's Rose Garden contains 12,000 roses in 85 single variety beds.
Queen Mary’s Rose Garden contains 12,000 roses in 85 single variety beds.

What is the History of Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

The garden is named after the wife of King George V and was first planted in 1832. In the same way that we might dress up to meet our friends in a pub, club or restaurant the affluent middle classes of the day would wear their best clothes and promenade in their top hats and tea gowns in the rose garden. Fetes and music would be organised in the summer months. It was a place to see and be seen,

Today the Queen Mary’s Rose Garden attracts all sorts of people…newly-weds looking for a back drop for their wedding photographs, professional photographers bearing tripods, local residents taking a stroll, families having picnics, young lovers (it’s the ideal backdrop for a proposal) and of course tourists who have heard about the legendary blooms.

It is a stroke of luck that we have this magnificent garden to enjoy today as there were historic proposals to use the land as a palace for the Prince Regent, the bloated and debauched son of an earlier monarch. Fortunately, he preferred the Buckingham Palace location.

The Four Areas of Queen Mary’s Rose Garden

There are several distinct areas that make up Queen Mary’s Gardens.

The Queen Mary's Rose garden is made up of four distinct areas.
The Queen Mary’s Rose garden is made up of four distinct areas.

The Circular Rose Garden

The original garden was the circular rose garden with its rose-festooned border of white and pink roses that provide a colourful living wall.

The Triton Borders

The Victorian jungle beds known as the Triton Borders have flamboyant jewel like colours with contrasting begonias, huge palms and ferns. These are linked to the famous garden designer William Robinson who worked for the Royal Botanical Society. He was a big fan of subtropical bedding containing hardy plants placed in natural arrangements.

Don’t be mystified if you see plastic buckets in the borders. These are place holders for plants that are on order and waiting to be delivered.

The Sausage Border

There is also a herbaceous border called the Sausage Border because of its shape. This has a planting scheme of deep red peonies and ornamental rhubarb spikes

The Mediterranean Garden

The Mediterranean Garden has been made possible by improving the water-logged London clay soil with plenty of sand to allow acacias, palm trees and purple alliums to thrive.

When Should I Visit Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

Very late May and early June is the best time for seeing the roses in full bloom. Most roses have a second showing in August and September but your photos maybe spoiled by the faded blooms of earlier flowerings. The delphinium border is at its best in June.

Can you find the plant sculpture of an elephant which is hidden in one of the borders?

How Do I Research Roses Before my Visit?

Before you visit, familiarise yourself with the different types of English roses. The varieties that you will see in the garden are:

  • Hybrid tea
  • Polyantha
  • Climbing
  • Rambling
  • Damask
  • Gallica
  • Alba
  • Centifolia
  • Floribunda
  • Patio
  • Ground Cover

As a general rule, the older varieties are less magnificent looking but have a stronger smell and the newer hybrids are amazing to look at but with less scent.

You can find out more about the different types of roses at the Gardener’s World website.

If you see a rose that you like you can almost certainly buy it online from one of our many rose firms, so don’t forget to photograph the plant label.

Tips for Photographing Roses Using a Smart phone

Any amateur can get very successful results using these tips;

  • Use natural light to photograph flowers as overcast days give a softer look
  • Mornings are the best time as the roses are fresh and often have dew drops
  • Crouch or kneel to get to the same level as the flowers
  • Use the close up/flower function on your phone’s photograph menu
  • Take a lot of photographs at different angles and closeness
  • Fill the frame and block out as much of the background as possible for rose close ups.
  • Check for unwanted things in your picture e.g. people, litter bins, insects
  • Use the crop facility on your camera to edit your photos and make the flowers bigger.

 

How Do I Get to Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

There is an 8-10 minute walk which ever tube you take as the rose garden is in the centre of Regent’s Park. The nearest underground stations are Great Portland Street, Bakers Street and Regents Park.

 

How Much Does it Cost to Visit Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

The entry to Queen Mary’s Gardens is free of charge.

 

If you like gardens, be sure to see out post on Kew Gardens in Winter.

 

 

 

Crossrail Place Roof Garden – Canary Wharf’s Hidden Leafy Spot

 

Crossrail Place Roof garden
Crossrail Place Roof garden

Crossrail Place Roof Garden is a leafy oasis hidden in the roof top of the Canary Wharf Elizabeth Line. Canary Wharf, home to our corporate sector, is an urban mass of concrete and glass.  So the thought of spending a half an hour looking at tropical greenery with great views out over West India Quay dock is appealing.

The History of Crossrail Place Roof Garden

At least our town planners thought so. In 2008, they hired notable architects Foster + Partners to design this indoor park  brim full of unusual and exotic plants. And tucked away amongst the foliage is a performing arts space.

Foster + Partners are luxury casting indeed for such a project. They are the firm responsible for other iconic architectural masterpieces including the neo furturistic central courtyard of the British Museum and the landmark Gherkin building in the heart of London’s financial district.

You’ll notice Foster + Partners trademark triangles in the garden roof design.

Trademark triangles in the Crossrail Place Roof Garden
Trademark triangles in the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

 

Shaped like a ship and laden with exotic plant species

The Crossrail Place building reflects Canary Wharf’s maritime history and the outstanding water-side views.

5 Reasons to Visit the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

If you are expecting anything on the scale of the Victorian greenhouses in Kew Gardens you are going to be disappointed. You could probably walk round the whole garden and study the plants in less 20 minutes. Therefore, it doesn’t merit a full day’s visit and is best combined with other activities. Consider visiting after a trip to the London Museum Docklands.

 

Pathway between lush planting
Pathway between lush planting
Interesting hoof shaped park bench sculpture
Interesting hoof shaped park bench sculpture

Here are some ideas for enjoying the garden

  • Bring a picnic lunch with you and eat it sitting on one of the many benches in the garden
  • Grab a coffee from a ground floor coffee shop and enjoy it in tropical leafy splendour
  • Make it a meeting point for a blind date. Walk round and admire the plants. If the date goes well, you can always suggest a drink in the restaurant at the back of the garden
  • Bring a book to read and use it as an opportunity to decompress

The Planting Plan for Crossrail Place Roof Garden

Exotic plant specimen
Exotic plant specimen
Broad leafed foliage
Broad leafed foliage
A plant with striking cyclamen flowers
A plant with striking cyclamen flowers

You may think that Foster + Partners have overthought the planting plan!

The garden lies directly north of Greenwich on the Prime Meridian. Therefore, they have divided the plant species into varieties that grow on the west and east hemispheres.

In the Western Hemisphere section (the Americas New Zealand and Australia) you’ll find plants like:

  • Soft tree fern
  • Golden tree fern
  • New Zealand fern
  • Sweet gum
  • Strawberry tree
Ferns in the Western Hemisphere of the Crossrail Place Roof Garden
Ferns in the Western Hemisphere of the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

In the Eastern Hemisphere (Europe, Africa, Asia and Russia) you’ll find plants such as:

  • Northern Japanese maple
  • Black bamboo
  • Northern Japanese magnolia
  • Veitch bamboo
Bamboos in the Eastern Hemisphere of the Crossrail Place Roof Garden
Bamboos in the Eastern Hemisphere of the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

The Crossrail Gardens website has more information on the plants and planting plan.

 


If you are enjoying this piece on Crossrail Place Roof Garden, check out our post on Kew Gardens in Winter and Richmond Park.


 

Dr Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward and the Invention of the Terrarium

Crossrail Place Roof Garden resembles an Enormous Terrarium
Crossrail Place Roof Garden resembles an Enormous Terrarium

If you think that the garden is similar in design to a terrarium you are entirely correct.

Nathaniel Ward was a botanist who invented a sealed glass container which was used for transporting plants from overseas to Europe. The survival of many of the species found in this garden is due to his invention of the Wardian Case as it was known.

 

Find the Story Dispenser Near the Restaurant

Story Dispenser Near Restaurant Exit
Story Dispenser Near Restaurant Exit

With relaxation in mind, there is a story dispenser situated near the restaurant. You decide whether you want to read for one, three or five minutes and the machine dispenses a ticker tape print out of a story.

Crossrail Place Roof Garden in a Nutshell

  • Great views over the Canary Wharf docks and buildings
  • Sublime Foster +Partners architecture
  • Exotic plant species
  • A place to meet friends or relax

 

Practical Information About Crossrail Place Roof Garden

Directions to the Crossrail Place Roof Garden
Directions to the Crossrail Place Roof Garden

How to find it

Come out of the station at Canary Wharf’s Elizabeth Line and take the entrance behind you. You will see a cartoonish multi coloured wall with escalator and lift to the roof garden.

Do you need tickets?

No tickets are required to the garden just arrive and enjoy.

Is the garden free to visit?

Yes, there is nothing to pay.

What are the garden’s opening hours?

The garden is open from 9am to 9pm. You can check on the Crossrail Place Roof Garden website.

How big is the garden?

You can walk around the gardens in about 15-20 minutes. It’s long enough to enjoy a coffee or a chat with a friend.

 

 

 

Opera Holland Park La Boheme (2023). We laughed! We cried!

Opera Holland Park’s La bohème has memorable staging and standout vocals.

Opera Holland Park, La bohème (c) Craig Fuller
Opera Holland Park, La bohème (c) Craig Fuller

La bohème is a Scintillating New Production for Opera Holland Park

Giacomo Puccini’s La bohème may be the most famous opera of all time: the spartan, gloomy scenes of impoverished Bohemian life are balanced by colourful street scenes and punctuated by dramatic arias. I always look forward to the warm, convivial meal in Café Momus in Act II which takes my mind off these freezing living conditions, lack of food and a dying heroine.

The popularity of La bohème lies in its pathos. Audiences are often moved to tears. For me, the acid test is plausibility. Do I feel that I am freezing in Paris? Am I convinced by the camaraderie of the flat sharers?  Do I feel that Rodolfo is in love with Mimi and is Musetta sufficiently exasperating?

La Boheme is Set in a 1950s Film Studio

Director, Natascha Metherill makes her Holland Park debut with an unusual twist on this 1896 classic setting it in a 1950s Italian film studio where our Bohemians are filming La Vie Parisienne.

In Act I, Adam Gilbert as Rodolfo, warmed gently to Mimì (Katie Bird), a wardrobe girl, who knocks on his attic door asking for a light for her candle. Rodolfo moves from awkward suitor to a star struck lover, all in the space of a short duet. Their sumptuous voices intensify as they become increasingly more enamoured and besotted.

The Italian film studio staging is not entirely successful and you are left puzzled why Rodolfo is wearing smart trousers, a red tie and a business shirt. It also seems unlikely that he would burn his film script in frustration at not being paid.  However, this concept does effectively resolve an issue which is how to make use of  the extra wide stage and additional stage in front of the audience pit. The back of the stage is the wardrobe department and scene cloth back drops while the protruding front stage is the preserve of the cameraman who is pushed along as if on a dolly.

Commendable Set and Costume Designs

Designer, Madeleine Boyd’s evocative street scenes are straight out of a Belle Époque poster; women in black, ruched dresses and feathered hats and men equally resplendent in tail coats and top hats were all carefully accentuated in a deep Parisian red.  The staging was enhanced by some memorable choreography of children chanting, dancing and clapping. In the midst of this, the toy seller, Papaginoli (Philip Costovski), clambers on his box and does his Greatest Show Man routine. A perfect slice of French life.

Opera Holland Park La bohème  Comic Elements

The arrival of Benoît (Henry Grant Kerswell) is always a treat; the landlord who comes to collect his rent but becomes entrapped by over sharing with his tenants who then taunt him over his womanising and throw him out. Kerswell did not disappoint, dressed in a baggy suit with a splendid voice and comical moves. Later, he plays Alcindor at the Café Momus, an elderly suitor who is perfect prey for the women of the night. Much hilarity ensues from his oafish gestures and nauseating table manners.

Musetta, a Femme Fatale with Strong Vocals

There was a standout performance from Musetta (Elizabeth Karani) with her big voice and equally large repertoire of femme fatale poses…a scary wench if there ever was one. In her duet with Marcello (Ross Ramgobin) there’s no need to read the surtitles, or speak fluent Italian, to realise that he was singing something on the lines of “Wimmen! Can’t live with them and can’t live without them”.

Directing and Conducting Triumphed Over the Usual La bohème Pitfalls

One of the tricky issues in directing La bohème concerns the Act IV attic scene with its macho camaraderie between Rodolfo, Schaunard, Colline and Marcello. If played towards the audience, it looks awkward and unconvincing and if acted more naturally facing each other, it is difficult to distinguish the voices. Natascha Metherill manages to get this just right.

The British bass, Barnaby Rea, in the role of Colline, decides to pawn his beloved jacket to pay for Mimi’s medicines. He sings “Vecchia zimarra” with deep, powerful vocals and laddish, gallic gestures. The conductor is to be commended for ensuring that this aria is nice and slow as befitting a funeral dirge.

The City of London Sinfonia Orchestra Capably Led by George Jackson

The City of London Sinfonia was capably conducted by George Jackson. He produced an almost cinematic, musical backdrop to the action leaving plenty of space for occasional pieces which were sung a capella. The music in the street scenes was bright and lively. Violins exquisitely played some befitting, sadder notes when the lovers decide to separate and on Mimì’s death scene.

Opera Holland Park’s La bohème Ticks Most of My Boxes

While the 1950s fit set staging was not entirely plausible, Opera Holland Park ensures that its La bohème is a knockout with a poignant capture of love, forceful arias, warm street vignettes, cosy café scenes and joyful camaraderie set against a backdrop of poverty, parting and death.  There were many wet eyes in the house as the lights went up.

 


If you enjoy opera you may like to read our other opera reviews. We have previously reviewed ENO’s La bohème. If you are new to opera you may also enjoy our blog post on tips for a perfect night at the London opera.


 

Performances until 5 August 2023. A few tickets remain and they can be purchased from the Opera Holland Park La Boheme website.

20 Free Things to do in London (or Nearly Free) That You’ll Love

This is our no compromise list of cheap and free things to do in London

Free Things to Do in London
Free Things to Do in London

London is the city of free. We have free museums, galleries, parks and interesting streets and alleyways. Combine this with some exotic, tasty and cheap street food and you are all set to go.

1. Check out the Dinosaurs at the Natural History Museum.

You won’t need to look far to find your favourite dinosaur as there is a massive beast towering above you in the Victorian foyer. In fact, the Natural History Museum is a bit obsessed with these animals as relics, exhibitions, talks and colouring books are everywhere. And best of all it is one of our top free things to do in London.

 

2. Find the Mummies at the British Museum

Mummies, coffins, funeral masks and all manner of useful objects that the dead took with them into the after-life are displayed in the Egyptian room of the British Museum. Look out for the beautifully engraved inner coffin of the priest Hornedjitef from Thebes 240BC and the mummy of a cat from Abydos AD 1-100.

Egyptian hieroglyphics at the British Museum
Egyptian hieroglyphics at the British Museum

 

3. Explore Modern Art at the Tate Modern

There’s no need to splash a lot of cash when you visit the Tate Modern.  This contemporary art museum is housed in the Bankside Power Station. There is an impressive selection of free art in its public galleries which includes works by Salvador Dali and Pablo Picasso. You can find out more about its top exhibits here.

If you head to the Kitchen & Bar on the 6th Floor, you can sit on a bar stool and enjoy the majestic view of the River Thames, Millennium Bridge and St Pauls – all for the price of a coffee.

Photo Alan Trotter

 

4. Ride on the Top of a Red Double Decker

Forget the touristy and expensive Hop-on Hop-off bus we have a cheaper alternative. Take one of red buses on the 9, 11 or 73 bus routes and see famous London sights for a fraction of the price. The stops and attractions on these routes are explained here. The cost of a day bus pass is currently £6 and you can check out the latest prices and child ticket prices here.

Photo by Tim

 

5. Discover Your Inner Foodie at Borough Market

This famous foodie market in London Bridge has all manner of delicacies sold from their more permanent stalls to their food pop-ups towards the rear of the market. You won’t be dining in a lot of elegance…there are a few tables and loos. Bring your wet wipes and paper tissues. Sauce on your chin is never a good look

Photo by Tiffany

Our blog post on popular London Snacks may provide you with less foodie inspired ideas that can be purchased at the local supermarket.

6. Feed the Ducks at the Serpentine

This was a favourite pastime for a generation of children growing up in the 1950s and 1960s. Parents would give kids a bag of stale chopped up bread and they headed to the serpentine to feed the ducks while their parents had coffee in the Serpentine Lido café.  Why not revive this tradition on a nice Spring day.

Photo: Kenneth Fleming

 

7. Watch an Old Movie at the BFI

The British Film Institute (BFI) on the South Bank has Mediatheque. This is a media viewing lab with an archive of 95,000 films and television programmes. Just go in, wait for a booth and they will give you a set of headphones. A happy way to spend a rainy afternoon when you don’t want to walk much. There are plenty of nearby interesting places and cafes all with a view of the Thames.

Photo Bob Walker

 

8. Window Shop at Harrods

Harrods is one of our most outrageously expensive stores but this makes it window shopping heaven. The designer boutiques on the first floor showcase the cutting edge in fashion from Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Dior, Versace and Valentino (to name a few).

Their lingerie department is a paradise of totally unwearable intimate apparel and expensive silk kimonos. Just don’t reach for your credit card.

Exotic lingerie in Harrods
Exotic lingerie in Harrods

 

9. Walk with a Londoner

There are many free walking tours in London. Of course these guides make a living from the tips that they receive so we recommend that you tip generously.

One of the best tour guides is Barry Greene from Back in the Day Walks.  His tours are reasonably priced and he knows his stuff.  Barry is a born and bred Londoner who conducts the most fascinating and well researched walks all over London. I have been everywhere with him from Brick Lane to Kensington. His latest tour of Southall is truly eye opening.

 

10. Eat Weird Stuff in China Town

If you fancy a tasty morsel that can be held between a paper napkin and licked off your fingers go to China Town. Check out the Pleasant Lady for tasty wraps. The Evening Standard has many more great suggestions in Cheap Eats in China Town for under £10.

Red lanterns in London's China Town
Red lanterns in London’s China Town

 

11. Listen to Live Jazz at Café Boheme

Get on your toe tapping shoes. Café Boheme is probably on one of the busiest corners in Soho and between the hours of 3-5pm they have a live jazz band playing…these are usually the hippest and most talented jazz musicians on the London scene. You can hear them for the price of a couple of drinks. See their live music schedule here

 

12. Take a Boat Down the River Thames

There’s no need to pay for a luxury Thames cruise just head to Embankment (near Westminster tube station) and embark on an Uber boat by Thames Clippers  and set sail down the river. You’ll down the river past the South Bank, the Globe, the Tower of London and all the way to Greenwich.

After you’ve fortified yourself, strolled in the park or visited to the free National Maritime Museum you can do the journey back. Have a drink on deck and wave at the other vessels. You will pay in the region of £10-20 for a return journey depending on whether you qualify for one of their many concessions.

Photo Geoff Henson

If you are looking for tips on how to plan a day out in London read our guide.


13. Admire the Deer at Richmond Park

When feel like a break from the great metropolis take a safari to Richmond Park. I prefer to go by car (avoid sunny days at the weekend when the car parks are busy). You can take the tube to Richmond and the 65 or 371 bus.

You will see ancient trees, lakes and a herd of red deer. It’s all on a scale that is breath taking. You almost feel that you are on an African safari. The park is free with several very good value cafés and ice cream vans.  Our blog post on Richmond Park will give you more information.

A herd of deer at Richmond Park
A herd of deer at Richmond Park

 

14. Become a Groundling at the Globe

In Shakespeare’s Day, the poor who couldn’t afford the more expensive, covered seats would elect to stand for a performance. The same is true today. Ditch the pricy seats in favour of a £5 ticket and experience the play like the Elizabethan peasants. The groundlings are closely monitored, so you’ve got no chance of sneaking into the seated area, sitting on the floor or leaning against a balcony. Standing means standing. Not many people can last the whole performance and you’ll be at the mercy of the elements but you can leave anytime you like.

Groundlings at The Globe Theatre
Groundlings at The Globe Theatre

 

15. Ogle the Street Performers at Covent Garden

Covent Garden, our famous fruit and vegetable market of days gone by, now has a new speciality…street performers. You’ll find jugglers, musicians, human statues, theatre troupes. Take your camera and small change for tips.

Photo: Rob Schofield

Our original inspiration for this blog post came when we experimented with going out in London on an extreme budget of just £5 a day. Find out more about it in our post on London on the Cheap.


16. Watch the World go by on Piccadilly

This is great activity on a sunny day when you don’t feel like walking much. Head to Pret or any of the other outdoor cafes on Piccadilly. Get yourself neatly sandwiched between Fortnum and Masons, the Royal Academy and the Ritz. Then sip iced coffee and people watch. You’ll see celebrities, tourists, business men, tramps and people from out of town dressed in their best. When you feel like a break you can visit the free galleries at the Royal Academy. Or take a stroll down St James’s and find the shops with Royal Warrants who supply the King and the Royal Household.

The Royal Academy on Piccadilly
The Royal Academy on Piccadilly

17. Eat a Salt Beef Beigel in Brick Lane

Eating a salt beef beigel at Beigel Bake is like going on a religious pilgrimage. It must be done at least once in your lifetime. And you’ll join the queue with actors, royalty, office workers, police men. They all know a bargain when they see it. You’ll get a massive bun stuffed with salt beef, gherkins and a tingly mustard which you can eat while walking down Brick Lane looking at the menus of the Indian Restaurants,

Salt beef Beigel from Beigel Bake in Brick Lane
Salt beef Beigel from Beigel Bake in Brick Lane

 

18. Check out Graffiti Art in the Leake Street Tunnel

Banksy popularised the Leake Street Tunnel under Waterloo station. It is the only legal graffiti wall in London. Local artists are encouraged to bring their spray cans and paint here. You’ll now find an ever-changing display of street art as new artists paint over existing exhibits. If this is your thing, be sure to check out our blog post on the Leake Street Tunnel.

Graffiti street art in Leake Street
Graffiti street art in Leake Street

 

19. Walk Across Tower Bridge

Before braving this iconic London landmark, I recommend going for a leisurely stroll to St Katherine’s Wharf. Have lunch of a drink overlooking the harbour. This is particularly idyllic on a warm Summer’s day. Then put your tourist hat on and walk over Tower Bridge. It’s a marvel of Victorian architecture. If you are lucky, you’ll see the bridge rise to let a tall ship pass.

Tower Bridge, a London landmark
Tower Bridge, a London landmark

 

20. Visit Temples and Sample Dhosas, Bhagis, Pakoras and Samosas in Southall

Southall is an Asian area in West London. In fact, it used to be so Asian that it was rare to see any other ethnicity. However, it’s recently become a stop on the new Elizabethan line. This will mean almost instant gentrification…new homes and a fast journey time to the City will attract many young professionals. Why not make use of this interim period and stroll around the Indian wedding dress shops?

Photo Su Lin

If you bring a head scarf you can also enter the local temples.

When you want to rest, find Spice Village . This award winning Pakistani curry house. Or do what the locals do when shopping…sample the huge variety of samosas, pakoras, bhagis and other, mostly deep-fried, Indian snacks which are sold  outside shops and from food stalls. These are in the range of £1-2 per portion. You can top this indulgence off with an Indian sweet from Royal which is arguably the king of Indian sweet treats.

 

Additional Resources for Free Things to Do in London

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Kew Gardens in Winter – Ducks and Dappled Light

 

Kew Gardens in Winter
Kew Gardens in Winter

There is something particularly invigorating about Kew Gardens in the Winter. Everyone enjoys trudging through green and mud, buffeted by cold gusts of air and spotting adventurous crumb seeking ducks.

Kew Gardens in Winter is a Green Leafy, Pine Scented Oasis.

Is it worth Visiting Kew Gardens in Winter? Absolutely! Winter is the optimum time to visit Kew. Any wuss can visit on a balmy summer’s day with a picnic in hand. Or sit on an outside table sipping chilled white wine under a vine covered pergola. But it requires an explorer’s sense of adventure and spirit to go in the Winter when you are going to trudge through puddles, mud and duck poo.

Kew Gardens is a UNESCO World Heritage site in West London. It’s a 9 acre site with many different themes and walks. Originally, the home and private gardens of King George III and opened to the public in 1840. Now a famed scientific institute for plant and fungal research.

 

 

 

 

Green Spaces Are Good for the Soul

Kew Gardens Winter has something for every mood. If today is a day when you want palaces, the breathtaking Victorian palm house, and the Great Walk arrive at Victoria Gate and turn right.

You’ll also find views reminiscent of Constable paintings and a magnificent Orangery which is ideal for coffee with friends.

Kew Gardens in Winter benefits from all round greenery.
Kew Gardens in Winter benefits from all round greenery.

But if your instincts are for  a woodland walk through a densely forested area with, bark underfoot and the scent of pine turn left at Victoria Gate. The arboretum is  home to 14,000 trees and more than 2000 species.

 

 

What to Expect at Kew in Winter

January is perfect for visiting Kew. I am no fan of their hugely popular Christmas Lights extravaganza and by January they have removed the twisted tangle of illuminations hidden in plastic flowers, the fake reindeer, the arches of fairy lights.

In the winter months you can survey the vast acreage and with hardly anyone in sight.

Usually there will be a few media types who live locally, in mismatched athletic wear and bobble hats yelling production instructions into their phones while walking at pace, young mothers with their babies strapped close to their bodies using their phones to photograph the still waters with their mirror images of golden foliage and skeleton branches, women of a certain age in ancient ski wear “getting in their steps” and catching up with their walking companions.

But for all the mud and cold, and there is sometimes sun light, green lawns, bulbs peeking through brown earth, alert, inquisitive geese, oblivious ducks and tall trees that made you feel dizzy as you look up. a day at Kew feels like an adventure that is otherwise hard to come by at this time of the year.

Opening Hours

The Kew opening hours vary according to the month and January has the shortest opening hours with the gardens closing at 4pm and the last entry is at 3pm. You can check the opening hours here.

Toilet Facilities

Toilet facilities are dotted around the gardens and are also to be found in each of the cafes. These are heated and well maintained.

Cafes and Restaurants

Victoria Gate is the busiest of the cafes and serves sandwiches, coffees and cakes. It is the ideal location to meet someone as it is right next to the entrance.

The new Pavilion restaurant is more upmarket and has a grill. Their hamburgers and  grilled chicken with side dishes are very popular.

The Orangery is a popular meeting spot for locals and has a range of hot cooked food and cakes and drinks. Theres a nice outdoor seating area and picnic tables on the grass.

A newer restaurant is the privately owned The Botanist which has more pricy and mesmerising offerings including an Afternoon Tea on tiered stands with exotic tea choices. There are also comfortable sofas in the conservatory area which are ideal for lounging on while drinking hot chocolate and there is a nice view of the pond and palm house.

Kew Gardens Membership

Many local people purchase an annual Kew membership which costs costs £77 for a single adult for the year. One of the main advantages is that you can take in a family member free of charge. This makes Kew a perfect budget day out if the membership card is used frequently.

Day entry for an adult is currently £10. Check their website for more information. www.kew.org