Budget London Red Bus Tour using Public Transport

London Red Bus Tour

Looking for a London Red Bus Tour and don’t want to pay through the nose for an overpriced tour? Have you thought of seeing London on a public bus? 

A one day bus pass for an adult costs £5.25 and you can hop on and hop off all day long. Some bus routes are better than others for touring London. I recommend numbers 9, 11 and 75.

Let’s start our series of budget London red bus tours with the number 9 route which passes iconic London sights like Kensington Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden. 

Photo credit: It’s No Game

Itinerary for the Number 9 London Red Bus Tour

The number 9 bus route can be seen on the Transport for London website. We are going to concentrate on the section from Kensington Palace to Covent Garden

London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route
London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route

Buses in central London leave every few minutes so there’s no need to get hung up on bus arrival and departure times.

You can get off the bus whenever you want and then simply go back to the same bus stop when you are ready to resume your journey.

The best seats for this London Red Bus Tour are the top of the double decker at the front…otherwise choose a window seat with uninterrupted views.

1. Kensington Palace

Kensington Palace

Obviously, you’d be mad to miss Kensington Palace .  It was the birthplace of Queen Victoria and continues to be home to Royalty including Prince William and Princess Catherine. When Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were courting they had a cottage in the grounds.

The state rooms are open to the general public.  Kensington Palace’s forte lies in its display of court jewellery and costumes. There are beautiful clothing displays including Princess Diana’s much photographed dresses.

The controversial Princess Diana sculpture is the Sunken Garden which you can visit free of charge. You decide…does it do her justice?

The scones and cream in the cafe are particularly good and there is a nice outside courtyard area in which to enjoy them.

Kensington Palace: The King's Staircase
Kensington Palace: The King’s Staircase

 

Now its time to begin your budget London red bus tour adventure…board the Number 9 bus at Kensington Palace.

 

2. The Royal Albert Hall

 

The Royal Albert Hall

Our London Red Bus Tour goes past the Royal Albert Hall which is a famous concert space known for the annual classical music festival the Proms.

The Royal Albert Hall. Photo by Greg Fot
The Royal Albert Hall. Photo by Greg Fot

 

The Prince Albert Memorial

The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe 
The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe

 

Facing the Royal Albert Hall, is the Prince Albert Memorial which Queen Victoria commissioned in memory of her husband Prince Albert with whom she had nine children.  It’s our equivalent of the Taj Mahal; a tribute to enduring love.

The Royal Music College

Behind the Royal Albert Hall you will find the Royal Music College with its exciting programme of low cost music recitals. You can find out about their current programme here.

3. Knightsbridge Station

Harrods

Our third stop is Knightsbridge where you will find the ultra exclusive Harrods department store. Nestled inside is a  shopping arcade of high-end brands, luxury designer handbags and a jaw dropping food hall.

Harrods food hall is just the place to pick up a sandwich, sausage roll, pork pie, quiche or any other portable delight to enjoy on your London red bus tour.

 

Harvey Nichols

Equally luxurious is the nearby Harvey Nichols department store with its focus on fashion and premium makeup.

Return to the bus stop to continue your budget London red bus tour as we are now going to chill out in London’s best known park.

 

4. Hyde Park Corner Station

Hyde Park

Hyde Park is the largest London Royal park.  It has two outdoor cafes overlooking a man-made lake and is dotted with hire by the hour deckchairs.

The more energetic may enjoy a boating trip or an outdoor swim.

Hyde Park is just the place to decompress. Take a stroll through the Rose Garden or have an ice cream in the Italianate garden.

The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations
The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations
Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming
Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming

Get back on the bus as our next stop will involve art, more royal palaces and afternoon teas.

5. Green Park

 

Park Lane

The bus crosses the end of Park Lane, home to luxury 5 star hotels including the Dorchester, the Four Seasons and the London Hilton. Which has the most luxurious foyer? You decide.

 

The Wellington Arch and Green Park

On the right, you will see the Wellington Arch, Green Park and the walls of Buckingham Palace.

 

Buckingham Palace

You can get off the bus here for Buckingham Palace which is a 10 minute walk through Green Park.

The exterior of Buckingham Palace
The exterior of Buckingham Palace

 

The Ritz

Look out for the world famous Ritz Hotel which has hosted celebrities and royalty for decades. Afternoon Tea is a spectacular affair but it will be necessary to book well in advance and adhere to their strict dress code.

The Ritz
The Ritz

 


We have a useful blog post on how to have a day out at Buckingham Palace and the Ritz. We include exploring the St James’s area.


 

The Wolseley

You are now on my favourite street, Piccadilly. It  has the Wolseley with its beautiful monochrome interior and one of the best afternoon teas in London (a bargain compared with the adjacent Ritz).

Banana Split at the Wolseley - probably the best dessert in London.
Banana Split at the Wolseley – probably the best dessert in London.

It is almost worth visiting the Wolseley just to eat their banana split.

The Royal Academy

 

The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition
The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition

On the left you will see the Royal Academy which is home to the celebrated Summer Exhibition. Any artist can submit a piece of work for consideration…you will see the most bizarre ideas.

We reviewed Loneliness of the Soul  by the controversial Royal Academician, Tracy Emin. This will give you a taste of what to expect.

The Royal Academy has free galleries and loos…the outdoor cafe with its tables and umbrellas is a nice place to sip cappuccino away from the bustle of Piccadilly.

 

The Burlington Arcade

Next door to the Royal Academy is the Burlington Arcade an indoor shopping street with luxury brands and a distinctive period feel.

 

Fortnum & Mason

Opposite the Royal Academy is Fortnum & Mason, the Queen’s Grocer. Pay a visit to see its beautiful food displays. Tourists beat a path here for its legendary loose tea and quality preserves.

No need to buy groceries, some say that afternoon tea at Fortnum’s is the best in London.

Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.
Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.

You may enjoy our post on Where to buy tea in London and you can get an idea of what they sell from our post on a Fortnum and Mason Hamper for for a Londoner.


 

Hatchards

If you walk up Piccadilly, past Fortnums,  you will see the Royal book seller Hatchards. It has an old fashioned, very British  style and service making it a fascinating place to browse.

Hatchard's book store which supplies Royalty
Hatchard’s book store which supplies Royalty

There are a couple of notable book sellers in Piccadilly including Waterstone’s which is the biggest book store in Europe with 8 miles of books.


St James’s Palace

St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer
St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer

 

Behind Fortnums and Hatchards you will find Jermyn Street with its small artisan shops selling everything from cheese to toiletries, men’s clothing and chocolates.

From here you can walk to St James’s Palace and Clarence House, the London Residence of King Charles III and Queen Camilla.

 

5. Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.
Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.

 

Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus  is London’s equivalent of New York’s Times Square.

If I am honest, it’s not my thing not least because it is crowded with young people enjoying raucous street entertainment.

Visit to take souvenir photos of the Eros Statue, Piccadilly Circus and the LED advertising which is especially spectacular at dusk.

If you are one of the gilded youth,  you maybe able to pick up the man or woman of your dreams by sitting on the steps of the Eros Statue.

 

The Criterion Theatre and the Criterion Restaurant

The charming Criterion Theatre  with its distinctive 20’s vibe faces the Eros statue.

Next door, you’ll find the preserved gold mosaic interior of the former  Criterion Restaurant .  Lately, it has gone downmarket and is now a chain Indian restaurant.  Not all progress is improvement.

Brasserie Zedel

If you are hungry, I can recommend a hidden gem.  Brasserie Zedel  with its well priced set menus is a basement restaurant on the Regent’s Street Side of Piccadilly Circus. It looks like a small cafe above ground and nothing alerts you to its gleaming Gallic interior and crystal chandelier.

The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie Zedel
The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie Zedel
The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel
The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel

We have produced a detailed review of the Brasserie Zedel set menus.


At Brasserie Zedel you will also find the Art Deco American Bar which serves classic cocktails and the vibrant red and black Crazy Coqs night club.

The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel
The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel

 

Regent’s Street

Regent’s Street is less crowded than Oxford Circus with more style and class. It contains many mid priced stores like Zara and H&M alongside luxury brands.

At the top of Regent’s Street, you will find Liberty with its Revival Tudor frontage constructed from the timbers of three ancient battle ships.

Now return to Piccadilly Circus and get comfy on the bus as we are heading to a famous sight…one that screams London.

 

6. Trafagar Square

The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light
The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light

 

Trafalgar Square

This historic square was designed by John Nash to commemorate the Battle of  Trafalgar. It is now a popular meeting point and site for political demonstrations. Look out for the fourth plinth which is a showcase contemporary art.

The National Gallery

At the north end of the square you will see the National Gallery with its free public exhibitions containing the works of almost every painter of any note from Rembrandt  to the Impressionists.

 

The National Gallery home to important works of art.
The National Gallery home to important works of art.

The National Portrait Gallery

Around the corner from the National Gallery is the newly refurbished National Portrait Gallery. This used to be a dusty mausoleum of an art gallery until they hired Sir Roy Strong as its flamboyant and creative director. He breathed a new life into its exhibitions and you will see all sorts of work that push the boundaries of what’s possible in portrait painting.

 

The London Coliseum

Opposite the National Portrait Gallery in Saint Martin’s Lane, you will find the London Coliseum which is home to the English National Opera.

The ENO is famed for its inclusivity with seats starting at £10.  There are some fantastic offers for new opera goers,  school children and the under 35s.

All of its operas are sung in English. Note the the opera season here is from Autumn to Spring.

7. Southampton Street/Covent Garden

Covent Garden Market

Now you are probably on your knees with exhaustion, so I would recommend making Covent Garden your final stop. This used to be a fruit and vegetable market but now it has a lively street market selling art, crafts and London souvenirs.

Covent Garden Street Performers

A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.
A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.

Covent Garden is just the place for a coffee, drink or ice cream while watching street performers. Last time I was in Covent Garden I stumbled upon the ice cream bar Milk Train. Their sundaes looked amazing. There were queues round the block so clearly they tasted amazing too.

Covent Garden Restaurants

Notable restaurants here are the historic Rules which specialises in British cuisine like pies and puddings and Balthazar – a stylish French restaurant.

Regular opera goers also recommend Le Garrick and Frenchie for their reasonably priced pre opera menus.

The Royal Opera House

The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House

A grand finale for your could be a trip to the opera. You can have the experience of a lifetime by visiting the Royal Opera House where you will hear world class performers singing opera in glorious burgundy velvet surroundings.

Concluding our London Red Bus Tour

Don’t you think that it is amazing what you can see for the cost of a £5.25 one day bus pass?  If you take this tour as a single journey without leaving the bus it will cost £1.75. You can pay by Oystercard or credit card.  If you have travelled in by tube, your budget London red bus tour will be part of your capped daily spend, therefore it may cost you no extra.

 

Attending Opera for the First Time- Top Tips for a Perfect Night

Attending opera for the first time

There’s nothing quite like attending the opera for the first time in London.  I often take my friends who are opera virgins who invariably ask the same questions about how to prepare, what to expect, what to wear and how to behave…let’s see if I can answer them.

London Opera Houses

In London we have two opera houses, the London Coliseum and the Royal Opera House.

The London Coliseum

The Coliseum is a  beautiful Frank Matcham designed theatre. It is swathed in red velvet with ornate stucco ceilings and statues at every turn. You will find it in St Martin’s Lane near Trafalgar Square. It is home to the English National Opera. As the name may suggest, all of its performances are sung in English so no need to lose the plot. The ticket prices are friendly.  Many are priced at under £20 and there are fabulous deals for young people and new opera goers. Recently, I had one of the cheapest seats in the house which was £10 in the balcony and I had a very good view of the stage and subtitles.

The Royal Opera House

The Royal Opera House is one of the most chic and glamorous venues in town.  It is famous for its multimillion pound productions, world class singers and fabulous sets. Each opera is sung in its original language. A seat at the front of the stalls will set you back about £200. Many performances are booked up months in advance. In the amphitheatre, on the fifth floor, there are more affordable seats.  The cheapest seats are dotted about on the upper floors and are standing only You may also be able to find a cheap seat in the amphitheatre side slips.

The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House

Dress Elegantly for a Night at the London Opera

Going to the London opera is one the most memorable experiences you will have. People go to be seen. So make an occasion of it and put on your most glamorous outfit.

I see women visiting the London opera wearing sequins, gold and silver embellished knitwear, silk scarves, costume jewellery, Chanel jackets, cocktail dresses, velvet, diamante, diamante and diamante.

People make correspondingly more effort with their attire in the stalls and boxes which are the more expensive seats. Arguably the opera goers at the Royal Opera House make more effort (but this is controversial!).

London is an inclusive place and you will see a lot of young people in ripped jeans and street wear. But if you dress down for the London opera you may feel a bit out of place.

Prepare for cold, drizzly London weather when you leave the venue in winter. Bring hats, scarves and thick coats. Most people take public transport home.

Dress elegantly when attending opera for the first time.
Dress elegantly when attending opera for the first time.

Read the Plot Synopsis

Read the plot synopsis on the London opera house website before you arrive. You will get much more from the opera if you know in advance what happens. Specifically, make a mental note of how many acts there are and when and how long each interval is. Some operas are five hours long! If there are several short acts, the director may ask the audience to remain seated for a 5 minute set change.

If you would like to know more details about the production, including the careers of individual artists, buy a programme. This is also a good way to support London opera.

If time and enthusiasm permit, use You Tube to research any famous arias or pieces in your opera like Brindisi in Verdi’s La Traviata. Then you will instantly recognise these special moments and the raucous applause following them.

Research the opera in advance.
Research the opera in advance.

Get to the London Opera Early

Part of the fun of a night at the London opera is to soak up the atmosphere. I get there shortly after the doors open which means that I can collect my ticket before the queues form. I then go to the bar.

Getting there early means you will have time to photograph the stunning interiors before people arrive.

This is a wonderful opportunity for people watching…you will see politicians, celebrities and swathes of London society especially on press night.

The Royal Opera House is magnificent. It has been enhanced by a recent restoration.  You could spend your pre-show time taking the escalators between the different floors and checking out the modern bars, sumptuous restaurants and costume displays exhibited in glass cases which line the walls.

Soak up the atmosphere by having a coffee or a drink before the performance
Soak up the atmosphere by having a coffee or a drink before the performance

Use the Cloakroom

Like almost all London theatres, there isn’t much leg room in either of our main opera houses. If you leave your coat and extra bags on the floor, latecomers will be clambering over both you and your prized possessions. Park your belongings in the cloakroom before the opera starts. It’s considered polite to stand as people pass you in the row. Don’t be the rude person who stays seated and expects people to clamber over them.

Use the cloakroom or put your coat under your seat.
Use the cloakroom or put your coat under your seat.

Be on Time for your First Opera

The curtain goes up exactly on schedule. If you are late, you may not be allowed to gain entry until a suitable break in the performance. The ushers may also move you to a different and inferior seat to that shown on your ticket until there is an interval. You will hear a bell ringing at intervals warning you of the need to get to your seats. It is better to have a meal or a sandwich at the venue than risk being late by eating in a local restaurant and rushing.

Turn off Your Phone

Double check and triple check that you have turned off your mobile phone…and then check again. Operas are sung without any amplification, with the orchestra playing under the singer’s voice. This means that the slightest noise can be heard even the vibrations of a phone set to silent

If a phone rings the whole audience will as one, irately mutter under their breath.

Don’t think you can take a sneeky peak at your phone while burying it in your handbag. Lighted screen glow like a beacon in the darkened auditorium and you’ll be seen by everyone, both behind and above you! A lighted phone will not only risk the ire of those around you but it will command the attention of an usher who will whisper in your ear to turn it off…very embarrassing.

Turn your phone completely off before the opera starts
Turn your phone completely off before the opera starts

Exchange Pleasantries

You will be sitting in close quarters with people on either side, so acknowledge your neighbour and exchange a few pleasantries, this way they will be helpful and patient when you need support leaving your seat, cough involuntarily, or require them to stand as you arrive after the interval. These conversations are usually quite dull, along the lines of “Have you seen this opera before?”, “I love this building!”, “I am keen to hear the soprano.”

Acknowledge your neighbours
Acknowledge your neighbours

Numbered Opera Seats
Numbered Opera Seats

This year I attended a brilliant Gilbert and Sullivan  Opera Guided Walking Tour put on by the ENO which you may enjoy reading about.


Carry Opera Glasses and Cough Sweets

Opera glasses are a must if you are in the back of the dress circle, upper circle or amphitheatre (Royal Opera House) and balcony (London Coliseum). This will allow you to see facial expressions, costumes and set details.

A few cough sweets, paracetamol and tissues are useful emergency items. If you find yourself in the middle of a row, you are not going to be able to leave your seat if you have a coughing fit or a headache. This has happened to me on a few occasions when I have had coughing fits that have come from nowhere and lasted agonising minutes,

Operas are a lesson in sitting still in a sphinx like pose.

 

 

Check the Surtitles Every Few Seconds

As a novice opera goer you will be reliant on the subtitles so make sure that you have purchased a ticket with a clear view of the surtitle screen (these are like film subtitles but are on a screen above the stage).  During the opera, get into a rhythm of quickly glancing up at the surtitles. They give you the English translation of the performance and are shown even for performances that are sung in English. Then move your eyes down to focus on the stage. That way you will know what is being sung without missing any of the action.

Understand the plot by reading the surtitles
Understand the plot by reading the surtitles


If you are enjoying this post on the attending opera for the first time you may want to read our opera reviews.


Move Fast at the Interval

If you need to use the rest room at the interval, leave your seat as soon as the safety curtain goes down, as within minutes a large queue will form.

The same is true if you are buying interval drinks, be the first at the bar, or better still order your drinks before the performance and they will be waiting for you.

Pre-order your interval drinks
Pre-order your interval drinks

Stay for the Curtain Call

The curtain call is a choreographed spectacle. It is the only occasion at the London opera when you can photograph or video the performers. As the last scene ends, switch your phone on, so that it is ready for action and zoom in. Stand up for the ovation and hold the camera above the heads of those in front of you.

You are encouraged to share the curtain call on social media.

The curtain call is a lot of fun. The leading ladies are given extravagant bouquets, the crowd always booes the villain which he (and it usually is a he) finds amusing, each singer takes a bow, or a curtesy, in keeping with their on-stage character and at times you will see not only the orchestra conductor, but the director and choreographer. This is especially true on Press Night which is usually the opening night of any performance. I was thrilled when Jonathan Miller appeared after a performance of the Barber of Seville at the Coliseum.

Photograph, or video, the curtain call and share on social media
Photograph, or video, the curtain call and share on social media

Read our latest opera review on Peter Grimes which started the ENO 2023 opera season in style,


To Get the most out of your First Visit to the Opera Read your Programme

Make use of your tube journey home to read your programme or plot synopsis – research the careers of the cast, the conductor and the director.

And the next morning, do one of two things, check the opera reviews to see if you agreed with the critics, or better still, book your next London opera.

 

Moving to London – An Insider Perspective

Moving to London

Moving to London or thinking of living here? Maybe you have concerns about high prices or fitting in? Here I lay all of your worries to rest and give you the many reasons why London is the World’s Capital and one of the best places to live regardless of your personal circumstances.

Here are some unarguable reasons to move to London.

London has a Fascinating Geography and Skyline

Consider moving to London for our fabulous architecture.

Most cities that have been burnt to ashes in fires, or blitzed to smithereens in wars are reconstructed on a communist style grid system but not ours.

We have tiny alley ways with ancient pubs nestled next to giant plate glass tower blocks.

Turn a corner and go down a path to seemingly nowhere and you’ll find a hidden court yard which may be the inspiration for Scrooge’s Counting House in Dickens’s Christmas Carol.

Cross our numerous bridges, or take the lift to a viewing platform at the Shard or the Tate Modern and you’ll see our skyline of majestic buildings – St Pauls, Tower Bridge, The Tower of London peppered with newer buildings like the Gherkin, County Hall and the Walkie Talkie.

And look at the red cranes and the scale of new development. The geography of London is constantly changing.

The Shard dwarfing its surroundings
The Shard dwarfing its surroundings

London has Fantastic World Beating Culture

Our arts scene is second to no other country on the planet and there’s no better reason to consider moving to London. You could never be bored here. There is a constant and never ending stream of entertainment and intellectual stimulation.

London has 230 theatres with 100,000 seats available each and every night. They range from the largest theatres which show musicals and blockbusters, to the oldest theatres like the Theatre Royal (May 1663) to the smallest theatres like the Duchess Theatre with just 494 seats.

With their frequently changing programmes, you could go to two shows a day for a year and never see the same thing twice.

The Savoy Theatre next to the Savoy Hotel
The Savoy Theatre next to the Savoy Hotel

Then there are our free world-class museums like the V&A, Science Museum and the Natural History in South Kensington. Art lovers will appreciate the free Saatchi Gallery in Chelsea, the Wallace Collection and the Tate Modern. History lovers will enjoy a day at the London Museum and wannabe Egyptologists and archaeologists and all lovers of antiquities, can join the crowds at the British Museum.

And when you’ve exhausted their permanent galleries you can go their special exhibitions where treasures are gleaned from around the world. Use a National Art Pass for discounted entry.

We have some other excellent suggestions for free and cheap things to do in London that you may enjoy.

London galleries have art of all genres which is a great reason to move to London.
London galleries have art of all genres which is a great reason to move to London.

Our Love of the British Royal Family is Another Reason for Moving to London

Portrait of the Queen on a £20 note
Portrait of the Queen on a £20 note

Most of us Londoners don’t want to be a republic.

We like the fact that our Royals can sit bolt upright, behave with class, wear stockings instead of bare legs in a heatwave, do public good works and save us from the ills of the government of the day. Her Mag has got to be a restraining influence on Boris, surely? After all she holds him to task at a weekly audience and without her, we don’t like to think what might happen!

And when our Royals get it wrong, they get it spectacularly wrong. We then enjoy the gaffes and the blunders. Many of us remember that rogue, Michael Fagan who scaled the walls of Buck House and evaded palace security, to sit at the end of the Queen’s bed.  There’s many a pub debate on whether Diana was a latter day saint or mad, bad and dangerous to know. Has Prince Harry lost the plot and been duped by a conniving Meghan Markle or are they “innocent victims of the palace machine”?  And don’t get us started on Prince Andrew and his alleged friendship with a friend of an alleged paedophile (and THAT television interview)!

We like the pageantry, the castles, the palaces the pomp and the circumstance…and the time when we met the Queen, or almost met the Queen. And moving to London means that you can share in all the pomp and circumstance that comes with the our royal connections.

Nowhere Does Understated Luxury Like London

Harrods is our most famous store and a byword in luxury
Harrods is our most famous store and a byword in luxury

As a nation we aren’t ones to bare all, teeter around in 6 inch heels or wear colossal rocks on our fingers. We prefer understated quality like wool tweed coats, cashmere jumpers and silk shirts. Many of our luxury branded goods are made by Royal Warrant Holders who supply Queen Elizabeth, Prince Philip or Prince Charles.

There is nothing like a stroll round Harrods, Liberty’s, Fortnum and Mason, Jermyn Street and the Burlington Arcade make sense of the London Look.

A Londoner shopping in Regents Street and wearing the iconic Burberry Mac.
A Londoner shopping in Regents Street and wearing the iconic Burberry Mac.

Our prestigious hotels are far more than places where the rich stay when visiting London, we arrange to meet our friends for afternoon tea, we use their foyers to host business meetings over a coffee or try to evade capture by the hotel doormen as we sneak passed solely to use the loo.

Luxury cars outside the equally luxurious St Pancras Renaissance Hotel
Luxury cars outside the equally luxurious St Pancras Renaissance Hotel

Here's what to expect for a hotel afternoon tea.
Here’s what to expect for a hotel afternoon tea.

London’s Bargains and Deals Defy Belief

London has an unjust reputation as being one of the most expensive and pocket draining capitals in the world. And it’s true, if you are going to dive into the nearest cafe or restaurant and zig zag between destinations in a black cab you’ll feel chewed up and used.

Accommodation

The main expense for anyone living here is accommodation, that’s true whether you are on holiday, renting a flat or buying a home. Costs can be reduced by house sitting, staying in hostels, sharing with friends or living in the suburbs. Once your accommodation has been sorted, London can be surprisingly economical.

 

Travel

The Oyster card (which is the card that you need to travel on London Transport) has a capped daily spend. So you will spend a fixed amount no matter how many journeys you make.

If you are permanent resident and over 60 you currently get free travel (and long may that continue).

 

Save Money by Moving to London

If you are moving to London on a budget you can focus on the free and cheap stuff. Think:

  • Museums
  • Art galleries
  • Libraries
  • Window shopping
  • Lunchtime recitals
  • Parks
  • Street performers
  • Street markets
  • Street food

 

Green Spaces with Free Entry

Lesser known is that there are number of roof gardens all over the City and many are free to enter (although some may require online booking).

This is the Crossrail Place Roof Garden in Canary Wharf which is full of exotic plants with many benches and hidden pathways and an extensive programme of free performances and music.


If you are using the Elizabeth Line at Canary Wharf tube station…the Crossrail Roof Garden is above you and accessible by lift or escalator. You may enjoy our blog post on this garden.


Exotic plants in the Crossrail Place Roof Garden in Canary Wharf
Exotic plants in the Crossrail Place Roof Garden in Canary Wharf

 

Food Deals

Food deals abound. London markets and supermarkets sell their produce off at a fraction of the price at the end of the day. Ask at one of the bigger supermarkets like Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Co-op, Waitrose when they make their evening reductions.

Many chain restaurants do introductory offers which can result in you scoring a free meal. Download apps for the chain restaurants and research deals online. Follow your favourite restaurants on Twitter to be the first to hear of their latest promotion

London markets have bargains galore which are perfect if you are moving to London on a budget.
London markets have bargains galore which are perfect if you are moving to London on a budget.

Cheap Shopping

Every January and July we have sales in our flagship shops and department stores in Knightsbridge and Oxford Circus. In the last few days of the sale, it is not unusual for prices to be reduced by up to 80%

Many People come to London for the January and July Sales
Many People come to London for the January and July Sales

London Weather is Interesting

London has interesting weather.
London has interesting weather.

Our weather changes by the hour, although on most days you can be guaranteed rain. Tourists and newcomers may see this as a bad thing but we tend to like it.

The truth is London weather is as interesting as it is varied. It rarely gets unbearably hot, and neither does it get extremely cold.

Just think, our moderate climate is very good for the complexion and delays ageing.

And you will never stumped for conversation. Our weather is the perfect subject when talking to someone that you’ve just met, or for polite conversation with neighbours when you don’t want to get too intimate.


If you are visiting London in the Winter you must be especially prepared for cold and rainy weather. We advise you on what to pack.


London Transport is World Beating

London Transport is speedy, safe and efficient.
London Transport is speedy, safe and efficient.

Sometimes, I meet friends who go back home to America and Australia and they return with horror stories of how they had to wait 40 minutes or an hour for a bus.

Well that doesn’t happen when you live in London!

Our trains and buses run every few minutes. You may be crushed like sweltering, sardines in the rush hour and need to carry a bottle of water with you at all times but these are minor inconveniences for a relatively safe and speedy journey.

London Markets Cater for all Tastes and Budgets

London has speciality markets catering for bargain hunters, flea market sifters, artisan foodies and arty craft lovers.

Each market has its own unique personality.

Columbia Road is a flower market with a diverse East End vibe. Covent Garden is known for its upmarket crafts and unusual souvenirs and is popular with tourists. Borough Market, visited by locals, tourists and office workers alike, is famed for its fruit, vegetables and artisan street food. There’s a second hand book market in front of the BFI. Portobello Road is a famous flea market with a lot of bric-a-brac, antiques and second-hand stalls. Greenwich Market has a thriving craft and hippy market as does Camden Town.

And if you see an advertisement for a Car Boot Sale, run don’t walk, you will find local people selling their cast off stuff for a pound or so. A top tip is to get there early and be vigilant as the cars are being unloaded.

Tasty Bland English Food  and Boozy Pubs are yet Another Reason for Moving to London

London Pubs serve traditional British food.
London Pubs serve traditional British food.

Fish and Chips
Fish and Chips

Full English Breakfast
Full English Breakfast
Bangers and Mash
Bangers and Mash

Steak and Kidney Pie
Steak and Kidney Pie

British food like bangers and mash, fish and chips and steak pie with lashings of gravy are the nectar of the gods.

We don’t need to eat garlicky olives and salamis, or a vindaloo, when we have the right mix of crispy, creamy, gravyness in our national cuisine.

Moving to London Means you can Experience a Unique,  Diverse and Multi Cultural Population

London is multicultural and diverse and everyone feels that they belong. And if they don’t feel that they belong, it just means that they need to make a modicum of change e.g. join a new MeetUp, move a mile down the road, speak to a new neighbour.

Meeting a white British Londoner is a bit of a rare thing here…even the people who purport to be British or Londoners aren’t! And when you leave the City for a few days, you miss the melting pot of interesting people and everything that goes with it – the ethnic food, the liberal attitudes and the range of beliefs and life styles.

London Pride is the annual LGBT celebration
London Pride is the annual LGBT celebration

Free speech and protests are a hallmark of London life.
Free speech and protests are a hallmark of London life.

Moving to London will allow you to meet different ethnicities
Moving to London will allow you to meet different ethnicities

A major plus point of our ethnic diversity is the myriad of cuisines available – you name it, we have it, from the Curry Houses in Brick Lane and Southall, to Chinese restaurants in Chinatown, Jewish bakeries in Stamford Hill and the Middle Eastern kebab shops on the Edgware Road. Whatever you want, and whatever time of day you want it, you can have it.

And with this comes the speciality grocery shops that supply them, so whether you are looking for wonton wraps, pomegranate molasses or dried anchovy, it’s here somewhere near you.

Emigrate to London to Witness Firsthand Tetchy Impatient Londoners

Londoners walking to work.
Londoners walking to work.

Londoners, dressed uniformly in black and grey, will leave their suburban homes and descend from the main line stations of St Pancras, Kings Cross, Victoria, Euston and Charing Cross each morning. They will then, unrelentingly and at speed, oblivious to stunning sights, march to their City offices.

Do not stop them, or get in their way or ask for directions. Dithering, pointing, or map reading tourists are likely to enrage them and woe betides anyone who causes them to trip over a wheeled suitcase.

As far as they are concerned, you are a “Johnny Come Lately” and London belongs to them. By living in London you can join us in our bad tempered and  impatient ways.

Consider Moving to London to Enjoy the Anonymity

People are like ants at Paddington Station
People are like ants at Paddington Station

In London, you are the proverbial drop in the ocean of humanity.

Discharged from prison? Change your name and address and make a fresh start. If you’ve had an argument with a friend, don’t worry about it, you’ll never see them again. Getting over a bad relationship? You’ll find hundreds of better partners living within a few metres of you, online. Fleeing a bad family situation? They’ll never find you here.

London is the perfect place to get lost, start over or disappear. You will never regret moving to London.

Buckingham Palace London – Top Tips for a Day Out

Buckingham Palace London

Buckingham Palace London is on every visitor’s list but many will leave disappointed.  As you cannot enter Buckingham Palace in the Winter, without a plan your visit may involve staring at a set of ornate black and gilded gates with a couple of guards wearing furry hats. Here are tips for avoiding a humdrum, box ticking day to one that will give you an adrenalin high.

Buckingham Palace London Requires a Detailed Plan

 

Without proper planning you will be staring through the iron gates at a guard in a bear skin hat.
Without proper planning you will be staring through the iron gates at a guard in a bear skin hat.

With a bit of forethought  a day at Buckingham Palace London could be amazing.

In this plan we suggest the following:

  • Watching the Changing of the Guards Ceremony
  • Visiting the Buckingham Palace State Rooms
  • Viewing the processional carriages and vehicles in the Royal Mews
  • Seeing the priceless art in the Queen’s Gallery
  • Having a picnic in St James’s Park or taking afternoon tea at the Goring or the Ritz
  • Visiting shops which have Royal Warrants on Piccadilly, Jermyn Street and St James’s.
  • Seeing a Show at the Theatre Royal

 

The Changing of the Guard Ceremony

The Changing of the Guard ceremony is where one guard regiment takes over from another. This is accompanied by a marching brass band. And best of all, it is free to watch.

The ceremony takes place at 11.00 on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday in Winter (weather permitting) and daily in the summer. Check the British Army website for a detailed schedule.

Get to Buckingham Palace before 10am to bag a prime spot for the Changing of the Guard

 

The Changing of the Guard Ceremony.
The Changing of the Guard Ceremony.

 

A brass band is part of the ceremony
A brass band is part of the ceremony

 

Significance of The Royal Standard Flying Over Buckingham Palace London

Did you know that if you see the Royal Standard flying from the Palace roof top it means that the King is in residence? On all other days there is a Union Jack flying.

The Royal Standard flag flying over Buckingham Palace London means that the monarch is in residence.
The Royal Standard flag flying over Buckingham Palace London means that the monarch is in residence.

Buckingham Palace London Summer Opening Hours

From July to October, Buckingham Palace is open to the public. You can marvel at:

  • The White Drawing Room
  • The Throne Room
  • The State Banqueting Room
  • The Grand Staircase
  • The Picture Gallery

And while you may not be invited to a Royal garden party, your entrance ticket does include Buckingham Palace gardens.

When I was there, I saw Kate Middleton’s wedding dress and a replica of her iced wedding cake.

As tickets sell out months in advance buy tickets early.


Do you love London so much that you would think of moving here? Find out what makes this the perfect city to live in.


The Royal Mews

Don’t miss the Royal Mews with its impressive collection of carriages and processional vehicles.

Gold Processional State Carriage at the Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace London. Photo by Aurelie.
Gold Processional State Carriage at the Royal Mews, Buckingham Palace London. Photo by Aurelie

The Official Buckingham Palace London Gift Shop

At 7 Buckingham Palace Road, there is the Royal Collections official palace gift shop selling tasteful homeware, china, clothing and jewellery.

Compared with the tacky, cheaply made fridge magnets and phone covers that are on sale elsewhere, you’ll find carefully curated, elegant and useful items.  These are precious reminders of  your Royal day out.

Who doesn’t want a furry corgi key ring or a silk scarf? And you can impress that special person in your life with a monogrammed bath hat.

 

A Corgi keyring which may be more cute than regal
A Corgi keyring which may be more cute than regal
A vibrant blue and gold silk scarf marking the Coronation of King Charles III
A vibrant blue and gold silk scarf marking the Coronation of King Charles III
A delightful monogrammed bath hat.
A delightful monogrammed bath hat.

 


If you are enjoying this blog post, you may also like our posts on  Fortnum and Mason the royal family’s grocer and how to photograph St Paul’s Cathedral.


The Queen’s Gallery

Behind Buckingham Palace is the Queen’s Gallery.  This is one of  the most famous art collections in the world featuring old master paintings, rare furniture and photos.

Currently, on display is Johannes Vermeer Lady at the Virginals with a Gentleman. You will also find paintings by Titian, Guercino, Guido Reni, Rembrandt, van Dyck, Rubens, Jan Steen, Claude and Canaletto.

The Queen's Gallery is Just Behind Buckingham Palace London.
The Queen’s Gallery is Just Behind Buckingham Palace London.

Places Near Buckingham Palace London for Refreshments

The Goring Hotel

By now you will be feeling tired and hungry. Staying with our Royal theme visit the Goring Hotel, a luxurious 5 star hotel. It used to house many guests from Buckingham Palace before the palace installed ensuite bathrooms!

This was where Kate Middleton stayed the night before she got married. Make a reservation in advance for afternoon tea.

The Goring Hotel Exterior
The Goring Hotel Exterior

 

St James’s Park

Alternatively, you could buy a packed lunch from one of the many shops in  Victoria Place and picnic in St James’s Park.

St James's Park has beautiful Spring flower displays.
St James’s Park has beautiful Spring flower displays.
There's a nice view of Buckingham Palace London from St James's Park
There’s a nice view of Buckingham Palace London from St James’s Park

 

The Ritz

Or walk through Green Park and have tea in the famous Palm Court at the Ritz.

The Ritz Hotel, London
The Ritz Hotel, London

The Ritz was opened in 1906 and is considered to be one of the most prestigious hotels in the world. It has hosted the Aga Khan, Jean Paul Getty, Winston Churchill and Jackie Onassis.

Margaret Thatcher checked into the Ritz in the final months of her life. The only time I saw Margaret Thatcher was when she was invited to the centenary celebrations of the Goring Hotel. She was accompanied by two assistants and despite her obvious frailty she absolutely worked the room – pumping everyone’s hand. It’s strange to think that she took a suite here instead of a nursing home! A woman of style!

The Queen Mother knew a lot about the high life. She dined regularly at the Ritz. The pianist would play her favourite song ‘A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square’.

Afternoon Tea is served daily at:

  • 11.30am
  • 1.30pm
  • 3.30pm
  • 5.30pm,
  • 7.30pm

Note that like most luxury London hotels there is a dress code.  The Ritz does not permit shorts, trainers and sportswear in any of the hotel’s restaurants or bars.

Afternoon Tea in London
Afternoon Tea in London

 

An Afternoon Walk  in St James’s

To work off the tea time calories, take a walk around nearby St James’s. This matrix of small streets behind St James’s Palace is home to a large number of Royal Warrant holding shops. Royal Warrants are often awarded to small artisan establishments which make the “best of the best” of British.

Notably, there is Lock & Co Hatters which is the oldest hat shop in the word. It was established in 1676. You can buy iconic trilbys, fedoras, berets and bakerboy caps…for the gents, you can even find a top hat or a bowler hat.

If you are not in the market for a hat, what about cheese? Paxton and Whitfield has been selling cheese to the aristocracy for over 200 years. I have a treasured Laguiole cheese knife which I bought from Paxton’s and it has been in regular use for decades.

If you are visiting and don’t want a hotel room full of smelly cheese you could browse in the Queen’s Grocer Fortnum and Mason on Piccadilly for English teas and preserves

Fortnum and Mason the Royal Grocer
Fortnum and Mason the Royal Grocer

or find a book to read at the nearby Royal Warrant holding Hatchards bookstore.

Hatchards the Royal Bookseller
Hatchards The Royal Bookseller

Evening Entertainment Near Buckingham Palace London

By now it must be dusk and you will be thinking of evening entertainment.

You could walk down to the end of Jermyn Street and cross Piccadilly to see what is on at the Theatre Royal in Haymarket.

The Theatre Royal was established in 1720. It is the third oldest playhouse in London. This beautiful intimate theatre  seats just 888 people and is owned by the Crown. Being owned by the reigning monarch means its revenue goes to the Treasury. Sometimes you can get lucky and pick up a ticket on the day at the Box Office. Or you could do the sensible thing and book in advance!

The Theatre Royal Haymarket
The Theatre Royal Haymarket

If you plan properly instead of a fleeting glimpse of a Coldstream Guard  behind the railings of Buckingham Palace London you can have a magical day filled with art, carriages, theatre, splendour, cakes, tea, hats and cheese that you will remember forever.

Charles Dickens Museum Review

 

Charles Dickens Museum

On a recent visit to the Charles Dickens Museum London, I discovered that Charles Dickens was a bit of a rake and dandy and far more eccentric than my early readings had given him credit for.  

In this article we give you insights into the key museum exhibits accompanied by original photographs and explain how  to obtain Charles Dickens Museum tickets.

I Visited the Charles Dickens Museum with Fear and Trepidation

Charles Dickens was a prominent feature of my school days, huge dusty tomes featuring characters of a bygone era. Indelibly etched in my young mind was Scrooge in all his miserly unpleasantness and Oliver Twist in the workhouse begging for more gruel. For every rotund, jolly character there would be a sea of filthy, ragged, bare-foot wretches teetering on the brink of starvation. It was with some trepidation therefore that I went to the the rented home of Charles Dickens, the lease of which was purchased with his advance from Pickwick Papers.

Wretched Characters illustrated in Charles Dickens' Novels
Wretched Characters illustrated in Charles Dickens’ Novels

Charles Dickens got into his characters by acting them out in his bedroom mirror… the very mirror that is in his upstairs bedroom.

48 Doughty Street is an Affluent but Ordinary London Town House

In my mind’s eye, I was expecting the Charles Dickens Museum to contain sumptuous splendour, a house bedecked with Christmas decorations shining like jewels and every candle in Christendom lit to illuminate gilded paintings and antique mahogany furniture. Of course, this was erroneous and ridiculous, Charles Dickens was just starting out in his literary career at the time of his life here and this house was reminiscent of the many Georgian and Victorian houses that line the residential areas of the centre of town.

Children’s Bedrooms Pay Homage to Debtors Prison

I climbed the stairs to the top of the museum, to the children’s bedrooms. A pair of bleak rooms with bare wooden floors and simple cots with a room divider of iron bars – the bars of a debtors’ prison. These bars were the embodiment of Charles Dickens’s own lost childhood when his father was in prison in Marchelsea with his wife and young child and the 12 year old Charles was sent to board with an impoverished woman and work pasting labels onto pots in a blacking factory.

The Children's Bedrooms in the attic of the Charles Dickens Museum.
The Children’s Bedrooms in the attic of the Charles Dickens Museum.

Rehearsing Characters in the Master Bedroom

With a shudder, I went down a flight of stairs and found myself in Charles Dickens’ bedroom overlooking the genteel Bloomsbury street. Dominating the room was a four poster bed with its burgundy coverlet, a slipper bath beside the fireplace and his wife’s turquoise serpent engagement ring on the dressing table.

The bedroom overlooking 48 Doughty Street
The bedroom overlooking 48 Doughty Street

Imagine Charles Dickens taking a bath In front of the fire. The bath tub in the main bedroom of the Charles Dickens Museum.
Imagine Charles Dickens taking a bath In front of the fire. The bath tub in the main bedroom of the Charles Dickens Museum.

In the corner of the room was a large pedestaled mirror sitting aloft a dressing table – it was this very mirror that he had used to “rehearse his characters” I imagined him making grotesque faces in the mirror and adopting gasping, breathy tones and childish high pitched squeals as he tested out each character’s veracity in that very mirror.

Ghosts in the Guest Room

I walked to the next room, smaller and with a sunny sense of calm, no ghosts in sight and nothing untoward…until the room attendant told me that it was in this very bed that his wife’s 17 year old sister had died in Charles Dickens’ arms, the trauma of which dogged him and for years to come.

The Guest Room where Charles Dickens' sister in law died in his arms
The Guest Room where Charles Dickens’ sister in law died in his arms

Charles Dickens, the Dandy

I skated past the dressing room with its display of a suited mannequin and a wash stand. A room where he would dress each morning and don a fashionable tartan waistcoat. Then he would spend his afternoons strolling around town meeting friends, book publishers, or otherwise attending to his many philanthropic activities (before going to bed with his hair in curlers). What a dandy!

Charles Dickens the Dandy, His only surviving suit is found in the dressing room next to the master bedroom of the museum
Charles Dickens the Dandy, His only surviving suit is found in the dressing room next to the master bedroom of the museum

Entertaining the Elite in the Salon

Maybe I would find the jolly family atmosphere that had so far eluded me in the family salon. The living room was the theatrical stage for his early talents with the makeshift lectern that he used when reciting stories to friends. I could see Charles Dickens’ guests marvelling over the twists and turns in his plots, gasping in horror at the sheer wickedness of the bosses and overlords.

The Salon where Charles Dickens read from a lectern to entertain his guests.
The Salon where Charles Dickens read from a lectern to entertain his guests.

 


You may also enjoy our post on another great man Winston Churchill and the Churchill War Rooms. And if you like historical museums read our review on the Museum of London Docklands.


 

Charles Dickens Study – Do Not Disturb

In the next room ,was the book-lined study where Charles Dickens had written his early works in a quill pen and ink with a spidery hand…tiny writing with numerous scratches and addendum. He worked in this room for 4 hours each morning and woe betide anyone who disturbed him.

Charles Dickens' large mahogany desk. A prized antique of the museum.
Charles Dickens’ large mahogany desk. A prized antique of the museum.

Charles Dickens' spidery handwriting in blue ink.
Charles Dickens’ spidery handwriting in blue ink.

Here was a conundrum. Charles Dickens was a man eager for fame, with little formal education yet he wanted to be part of learned society. This house was was sufficiently impressive to be a passport to his place in the world. And it was here, in his first family home, that he and his wife Catherine began to make their mark, inviting interesting people such as the author Elizabeth Gaskell and the historian Thomas Carlyle to dinner.

The Christmas meal in all its splendour
The Christmas meal in all its splendour

The Heart of the Home in the Basement Kitchen

I felt a longing for the warm embrace of a nearby cafe and a hot drink. I arrived on the ground floor of the Dickens’ residence and was about to leave the Charles Dickens Museum when I saw an illuminated arrow pointing to the basement…was there more? I nearly didn’t go. I’m at an age when I think twice about stairs.

And there it was, in its warmth and splendour, the bosom of the family, a kitchen, a pantry, a scullery and a wine cave – filled with plaster of Paris replicas of fruits, vegetables, roasting meats, jelly, cakes, laundry all on scrubbed work tops curved through chopping and overuse…the heart of 48 Doughty Street. A place setting was laid on the kitchen table for Charles Dickens and as I left I could imagine him eating his lunch with the house keeper bustling around him serving a beef and oyster pie and mash with gravy, the resident hedgehog feeding off the crumbs and insects afoot and his chattering children being ushered upstairs by the nursery maid so he could eat in peace.

The Christmas meal in all its splendour
The Christmas meal in all its splendour

It looks as if the kitchen maids are getting ready to make pastry. Pies were a big thing in Victorian England.
It looks as if the kitchen maids are getting ready to make pastry. Pies were a big thing in Victorian England.

The Cold Room where the housekeeper made desserts and kept dairy cool.
The Cold Room where the housekeeper made desserts and kept dairy cool.

The Bleak Laundry Room in the Rear Basement
The Bleak Laundry Room in the Rear Basement

Charles Dickens Museum Accessibility

There is a lift that covers four of the five floors of the Charles Dickens Museum including the basement.

Charles Dickens Museum London Tickets and Admission Prices

Adult: £12.50
Concessions (Students, Seniors and Disabled Visitors): £10.50
Child 6-16 years: £7.50
Children under 6 years: Free

Prices updated September 2023.

You can obtain discounts for museum entry by using the following schemes:

These are welcome on a walk-in basis.

Charles Dickens Museum London Address

48 Doughty Street, London, WC1N 2LX

Charles Dickens Museum London Website

https://dickensmuseum.com

Hats off to the curators of the Charles Dickens Museum who have given us a vivid insight into the home life of one of our most revered authors.

 

The Museum of London Docklands – A Gory and Gloomy Past

The Museum of London Docklands

 

The Museum of London Docklands in Canary Wharf takes us on a gory and gloomy voyage through hard manual labour, executions and slavery of this major London port. Housed in the Grade II listed No 1 warehouse of the West India Docks the museum shows life on the docks at the pinnacle of their importance.

 

Time to Visit the Museum of London Docklands

Museum of London Docklands Exterior
Museum of London Docklands Exterior

I have very fond recollections of the London Museum, Barbican with its ornate Art Deco Selfridge’s lift doors, the charming video of waitresses serving afternoon tea at a Lyons Corner House and the exhibits of various cabs and carriages that plied their trade in London’s West End. Sadly, the London Museum, Barbican is temporarily closed as it plans its relocation to a more central location in 2026.

I decided it was now time to head East to explore the Museum of London Docklands. Would it be up to snuff?

 

Our Journey of Gloom and Despair Begins in the Dockland’s Warehouse

The route through the museum galleries starts on the third floor. As the lift doors ping, we glimpse a darkened gallery of ropes, weighing scales, pulleys and trolleys operated by overworked dockers.

Trolleys and pulleys used by the London dockers
Trolleys and pulleys used by the London dockers

 

Dock Inspectors and Managers Ensured that All Goods Were Measured, Sampled, Weighed and Inspected.
Dock Inspectors and Managers Ensured that all Goods Were Measured, Sampled, Weighed and Inspected.

And on to more doom of fires, prostitutes, ram-shackled, housing and irate dock managers.

 

The Museum of London’s Executions Exhibits

Can we come up for air yet?

 

Nope!

 

Our dear curators have decided that we need a full immersion experience of executions and hangings with a liberal spattering of torture instruments.

You couldn’t make this up.

Torture Instruments and Exhibits
Torture Instruments and Exhibits

 

Children these days are monsters and I am sure they are thrilled to see these horrors. I saw no signs of modern parents shielding their little darlings’ eyes.

 

Sailor’s Town With Its Lodging Houses, Dock Offices and Shops

There was a temporary respite with a stunning alleyway of Victorian era shops, boarding houses and offices. Pure Disney.

A Stationers
A Dock Office
A General Hardware Store
Lodgings for Sailors

If you are enjoying this blog post on the Museum of London Docklands you may also like to read our reviews of the Charles Dickens Museum and the Churchill War Rooms.


 

The Museum of London Docklands Stomach Churning Slavery Exhibition

Shocking images of tortured slaves
Shocking Images of Tortured Slaves

 

Onwards and downwards…to the stomach-churning London, Sugar & Slavery exhibition replete with whips, images of tortured semi naked women hanging from trees and metal restraints used to prevent slaves escaping.

Modern Art as a Response to the London Museum Docklands Slavery Permanent Exhibition
Modern Art as a Response to the London Museum Docklands Slavery Permanent Exhibition

 

If the purpose of museums is to elicit an emotional reaction this was highly successful. I was holding back the tears.

 

A Talk on the Victorian Wine Trade is a Merciful Respite

Thankfully, I was rescued by an announcement of an imminent talk on the Victorian wine trade. A talk! They should provide wine dispensers at regular intervals through their gory exhibits.

A Coopers' Workshop with Wine Barrel Repair Instruments
A Coopers’ Workshop with Wine Barrel Repair Instruments
A Bottling Station Where the Wine is Corked and Labelled
A Bottling Station Where the Wine is Corked and Labelled

Our lecture on bottling, corking and labelling wines…historical taxation and wine consumption statistics all championed by one William Gladstone was riveting.

 

I thought of limping to the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese which was rebuilt in 1667 but alas too far, so I limped towards the Exit in search of nearer victuals.

A Beacon of Quality Souvenirs in the London Museum Docklands Shop

Suffragette Christmas Ornaments in the Museum of London Shop
Suffragette Christmas Ornaments in the Museum of London Shop

 

The bright spot in the Museum of London Docklands…the part that makes your spirits soar and your heart sing is the museum shop near the Exit.

 

This is the very place for London souvenirs that are the pinnacle of good taste. There are purple and green stuffed Women Suffragettes to adorn your Christmas tree…

 

Quality, embroidered hoodies emblazoned with the London Underground logo and lined in a cotton fabric depicting the tube map.

A Quality London Underground hoodie
A Quality London Underground hoodie

Their book department on all matters London would have you browsing for hours.

My Bargain Book With Fabulous Photography
My Bargain Book With Fabulous Photography

My find was a book on London at Night remaindered at £2 from a previous Museum of London Docklands exhibition. London during the blitz, the seedy side of London’s Soho and Londoners on the night bus kept me entertained on the tube journey home.

 

Recovering from the Museum of London Docklands at Browns

Browns Restaurant Exterior
Browns Restaurant Exterior

Browns West India Quay in the first dock warehouse has a lunch menu at £17.95 served until 5pm. Chain restaurants have a bad rap but I was very happy with my smoked duck starter accompanied by crisp croutons, fresh watercress with a delicate orange dressing.

Smoked Duck Starter at Browns near the Museum of London Docklands
Smoked Duck Starter at Browns near the Museum of London Docklands

The main course steak was a perfect medium rare and they were happy to switch out the chips for broccoli.

Steak and Broccoli (instead of chips) from the Lunch Menu of Browns near the Museum of London Docklands
Steak and Broccoli (instead of chips) from the lunch menu of Browns near the Museum of London Docklands

Friendly and unobtrusive service made it the perfect place to recover from a trip to the Museum of London Docklands.

Pass the smelling salts.

 

Getting to the Museum of London Docklands

The museum is a short walk from the exit of the Canary Wharf Elizabeth line.  Follow the signs for the London Museum. As you leave the tube you will see a row of dock warehouses and the museum is in the last building.

You can also take the DLR to West India Quay,

Buses D3, D7, D8, 277, D6 15, 115, 135 stop near the museum.

 

Museum of London Docklands Tickets

You are encouraged to make a voluntary contribution but entry to the museum is free. There is no need to prebook your ticket.

The museum charges for entry to some of its temporary exhibitions. More information is available on its website.

 

Museum of London Docklands Opening Times

The museum is open from Monday to Sunday 10am to 5pm.

 

Museum of London Docklands Parking

There is a public car park behind the Museum of London Docklands on Hertsmere Road.

 

 

 

Marylebone on a Budget – Shopping and Sight Seeing Paradise

Marylebone on a Budget

Marylebone on a budget? It can be done! Explore this little known area sandwiched between Marble Arch and Baker’s Street with a unique village atmosphere, many independent shops, a church that rivals some cathedrals and a sumptuously ornate, free museum. Here is a nuts and bolts guide on how you can have a fabulous day in Marylebone on the cheap.
Each month I show you how to plan a budget day out in an interesting part of London, I throw in some cheap eats, shopping and culture and help you do it for less than £15. If you are travelling on a shoestring budget read on…

Rules for the Marylebone on a Budget, London for £15 challenge

I don’t include tube travel …the over 60s with a London address have a Oyster 60+ card which gives them free travel on the London Underground and buses. Many working Londoners are using Oyster cards with capped daily spends and and most tourists have a prepaid Oyster card.
And I don’t include memberships. If you are a Londoner on a low budget, I advise you to stock up on every subscription and membership that you can lay your hands on…just make sure that they are for venues that you will actually go to several times in the course of the year.

Why Marylebone High Street?

Marylebone is probably the only place that I can think of in the centre of London that has a village feel with markets, charity shops, churches and museums. It has a great foodie vibe with a handful of artisan food shops with authentic produce…no E numbers or factory produce here. What appeals to me is the sheer variety of sights and activities all with the feel of London a hundred years ago.

Moxton Street – a Foodie Heaven off Marylebone High Street

Moxton Street is the epicentre of foodie heaven with some surprising budget finds. At the weekends there is a food market at the end of the road where locals buy their produce and they then stop off at La Fromagerie to recover from their exertions and catch up with friends. Bill Nighy is often spotted in the restaurant Aubaine opposite.

Ginger Pig

The Ginger Pig is renowned for offering a roast lunch which is costed by weight…pork, stuffing, gravy…roasted vegetables with minty, lemony seasonings and gravy. There are also pies worthy of any Charles Dickens novel…hot sausage rolls, Cornish pasties etc. You can easily pick up allow cost takeaway lunch here for £5-£8.
The Butchery section of Marylebone's famous Ginger Pig.
The Butchery section of Marylebone’s famous Ginger Pig.
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
A good selection of high quality low priced cold meat pies
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Great value sausage rolls. Choose the hot ones.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.
Roast pork with vegetables and salad priced by weight. Infinitely more delicious than the photograph.

La Fromagerie

And then head next door to La Fromagerie which prides itself on sourcing its ingredients directly from top artisanal producers in the UK and Europe.Their food is fresh and beautifully presented. At the rear of the shop are tables dedicated to people sampling cheese boards and wine and there is a cafe with a small kitchen menu that includes the very popular Portuguese Sardines on toasted sough dough with caper berries and Amalfi lemon at £11.50…but as we are on a shoestring budget, I recommend sticking with the picnic idea from the Ginger Pig. Or to hell with it…blow your budget on a Yorkshire Salt Beef Sandwich with homemade slaw at £12 and focus on free activities for the rest of the day!
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Whole Cheeses in the Window of La Fromagerie in Marylebone.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Beautiful Food Displays at La Fromagerie.
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
Go for the Carrot Cake a bargain at £3.20
You can return to La Fromagerie for afternoon tea. They have home made cakes with deep buttery icing that they serve in gargantuan slices…enough for two people. Their cakes are are really good value at £3-£4 a slice, approximately.

If you are enjoying this post on shopping and sightseeing in Marylebone on a budget you may also like to read  20 Free Things to do in London (or Nearly Free) That You’ll Love.

Marylebone High Street

Pret

After that culinary overload you need to rest, so off to Pret. For frequent low budget adventurers I recommend the Pret Subscription as it allows you to have a free drink every 30 minutes, up to 5 times a day, for £30 a month and 10% off the food menu. Get a free barista coffee, or a cup of British Breakfast tea and leave the tea bag in to steep to get the full malty caffeine hit. I usually park myself on one of their outside tables and eat my picnic there. I know that this is frowned on but no one has said anything yet!

Charity Shops

The adjacent residential houses in Marylebone are all worth millions. They are where the super rich live. So it should come as no surprise that the charity shops on Marylebone High Street are choc full of discarded designer clothes, many unworn and still tagged from Harrods and Harvey Nichols.
Unlike the London suburbs. where you can pick up a piece of bargain second hand clothing for a couple of quid, these charity shop managers know how to price but you’d still be paying a fraction of the cost new.
Even if you don’t buy anything in the charity shops it is fun to look.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.
Found in a Marylebone charity shop. Is this a bargain? A £150 Pucci silk scarf.

Daunt Books

Welcome to Daunt Books which is probably the most photographed book store in London – an independent bookseller with an original Edwardian interior featuring a two storey gallery which contributes to its olde world charms.
This is the place where celebrities come to do their book signings, so be sure to check out their Events page. Boris Johnson was photographed here recently.
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street
Daunt Books exterior on Marylebone High Street.
Gallery at Daunt Books
Gallery at Daunt Books
There is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.
There is a huge selection of London books including this one on London for free.

St James’s Church a Marylebone Church with a Beautiful Gothic Interior

St James’s Church in Spanish Place is not on the tourist circuit but it has an interior that would rival that of many a famous European cathedral. It’s in an early Gothic style. There has been a church in this site for centuries and the current church opened in 1890. There are beautiful paintings, statues and brasses. The church does a lot of work for the homeless. There is a daily mass. The church is free to visit and is a must for your Marylebone on a budget day out – you can make a small donation in the boxes provided.
St James's church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
St James’s church exterior in Marylebone with its flying buttress
Gothic revival interior.
Gothic revival interior.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Polished brass tomb covering.
Altar frieze.
Altar frieze.

Wallace Collection is Marylebone’s Glitzy Glamorous Free Museum

The Wallace Collection is the jewel of Marylebone – a gilded, glitzy, glamorous museum in Manchester Square. It is stuffed with objet d’art, hand carved furniture, armoury and marble statues. And best of all it is free to visit but a small donation is encouraged.
Visit Marylebone's free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Visit Marylebone’s free museum and see this amazing ornate fireplace offset by red flock wallpaper.
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
Frans Hals The Laughing Cavalier
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.
The grand marble staircase with gilded balustrade and burgundy carpet.

Are you thinking of a day out away from London? We have a fabulous post on a day trip to Lewes (East Sussex) and its surrounding villages.


Wallace Collection Museum Shop

The Wallace Collection museum shop has things that you might actually want in your home which makes it a rare find in the world of souvenir type shops and it is not too pricy.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
Stylish dressing gowns many with London maps or typography.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
For those looking for a tasteful apron depicting a naked man.
Entry to exhibitions is currently £14 but you can buy annual membership for the Wallace Collection that would give you free entry to exhibitions for a year for £45 (single adult membership 2023). If you have a National Arts Club Fund membership you can gain admission at a 50% discount for £7. And of course, if you are on a tight budget and without the necessary memberships, there’s plenty to see in the free permanent galleries.

Harley Street and Selfridges

I ended my day with a walk down Harley Street gazing at the practitioners’ plaques and window boxes and did a bit of browsing in Selfridges.

Instead of heading south towards Oxford Street you could extend your day by going north towards Baker’s Street and visiting the free Queen Mary’s Rose Garden in Regents Park. We have a blog post entitled Queen Mary’s Rose Garden – A Sublime Floral Display.


Total Spend for my Marylebone on a Budget Day Out

My low cost day in Marylebone was only £3.20! I only spent money on the cake in La Fromagerie. I was gifted a few food samples as part of my blog research which kept me going.
If you had a picnic lunch from the Ginger Pig or one of the many cafes in Marylebone High Street, used your Pret subscription and focussed on free entry to the church and the Wallace Collection you could have a fab day out for well under £15.
There’s far more to see in Marylebone on a budget, so please subscribe so you don’t miss another London for £15 blog post in the area.

ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour Review

ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour Review
ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour Review

As soon as I set eyes on the ENO’s Gilbert and Sullivan walking tour I pounced. There was everything to like about it…free tickets, curated by my favourite bass baritone John Savournin and an opportunity to hear great opera sung outside of a traditional auditorium.

ENO’s Gilbert and Sullivan Walking Tour

The ENO’s Gilbert and Sullivan walking tour started at the entrance to the Savoy Hotel. This was my very first surprise. I have been basking in the misapprehension that the Savoy entrance was on the Strand next to the Savoy Theatre. Who would have thought that an even grander hotel entrance with floral gardens existed behind the other grand hotel entrance?

In the midst of the flora and foliage are monuments paying homage to the combined talents of Gilbert and Sullivan.

 

Monuments and statues to Gilbert and Sullivan grace Victoria Embankment.
Monuments and statues to Gilbert and Sullivan grace Victoria Embankment.

John Savournin kicked things off wearing a black topper and giving an equally stylish rendition.

John Savournin kicked the opera tour off in style.
John Savournin kicked the opera tour off in style.

We were then whisked away to meet a handcuffed Ruairi Bowen singing a sad lament while dolefully awaiting his execution.

A doleful performance from a singer about to be executed.
A doleful performance from a singer about to be executed.

Zoe Drummond convinced us of her prim and ladylike virtues with melodic voice, all the while dancing demurely with a parasol. She wasn’t even fazed when an elderly old crock like myself tripped on the grass in front of her. Next time I hope she chooses a younger and more agile audience participant.

Prim ladylike and ultimately unfazed vocal performance.
Prim ladylike and ultimately unfazed vocal performance.

Trevor Eliot Bowes made a fine copper with his menacing Victorian gestures and his cartoonish antics. His truncheon holding and silly walk was straight out of a silent movie accompanied by a lively yet stern vocal performance.  He was a proper “job’s worth”.

A comically stern vocal performance from a Victorian policeman.
A comically stern vocal performance from a Victorian policeman.

On our travels down Whitehall we came across an overheating Ossian Huskian in full bear skinned hat regalia who entertained us royally. He caused much consternation to bemused strolling tourists.

A Royal opera treat from a singing soldier.
A Royal opera treat from a singing soldier.

We met Sir Joseph (Richard Suart), “The Ruler of the Queen’s Navee” outside Admiralty Arch. It was a perfect moment, the magnificence of Trafalgar Square and the Admiralty buildings, an eccentric and exquisitely attired admiral in his embroidery and feathers singing the most famous of Gilbert and Sullivan Songs “When I was a Lad”.

The spendors of Admiralty Arch and Trafalgar Square contributed to the tour.
The spendors of Admiralty Arch and Trafalgar Square contributed to the tour.
Meeting the Ruler of the Queen's Navee was the highlight of ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour
Meeting the Ruler of the Queen’s Navee was the highlight of ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour

We ended the tour back at the London Coliseum where we were met by two dancing and singing faeries, so sweet they looked as if they had been plucked from the pages of Hans Christian Andersen’s Fairy Tales.

Sweet natured dancing faeries conclude ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour
Sweet natured dancing faeries conclude ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour

The creative and office team who had masterminded this wonderful tour were there to wave us off and we were each presented with a beautifully illustrated book of Jonathan Miller’s production of The Mikado.

It was a perfect day…perfect opera, perfect weather and perfect logistics. It is productions like this that make the ENO such an important cultural asset to London.


If you are a fan of Gilbert and Sullivan you may enjoy our review of the ENO’s HMS Pinafore. 


The ENO’s Gilbert & Sullivan Walking Tour is now sold out but keep an eye open for similar ENO initiatives and of course, book Iolanthe which is on from the 5-25 October.

Opera Holland Park La Boheme (2023). We laughed! We cried!

Opera Holland Park’s La bohème has memorable staging and standout vocals.

Opera Holland Park, La bohème (c) Craig Fuller
Opera Holland Park, La bohème (c) Craig Fuller

La bohème is a Scintillating New Production for Opera Holland Park

Giacomo Puccini’s La bohème may be the most famous opera of all time: the spartan, gloomy scenes of impoverished Bohemian life are balanced by colourful street scenes and punctuated by dramatic arias. I always look forward to the warm, convivial meal in Café Momus in Act II which takes my mind off these freezing living conditions, lack of food and a dying heroine.

The popularity of La bohème lies in its pathos. Audiences are often moved to tears. For me, the acid test is plausibility. Do I feel that I am freezing in Paris? Am I convinced by the camaraderie of the flat sharers?  Do I feel that Rodolfo is in love with Mimi and is Musetta sufficiently exasperating?

La Boheme is Set in a 1950s Film Studio

Director, Natascha Metherill makes her Holland Park debut with an unusual twist on this 1896 classic setting it in a 1950s Italian film studio where our Bohemians are filming La Vie Parisienne.

In Act I, Adam Gilbert as Rodolfo, warmed gently to Mimì (Katie Bird), a wardrobe girl, who knocks on his attic door asking for a light for her candle. Rodolfo moves from awkward suitor to a star struck lover, all in the space of a short duet. Their sumptuous voices intensify as they become increasingly more enamoured and besotted.

The Italian film studio staging is not entirely successful and you are left puzzled why Rodolfo is wearing smart trousers, a red tie and a business shirt. It also seems unlikely that he would burn his film script in frustration at not being paid.  However, this concept does effectively resolve an issue which is how to make use of  the extra wide stage and additional stage in front of the audience pit. The back of the stage is the wardrobe department and scene cloth back drops while the protruding front stage is the preserve of the cameraman who is pushed along as if on a dolly.

Commendable Set and Costume Designs

Designer, Madeleine Boyd’s evocative street scenes are straight out of a Belle Époque poster; women in black, ruched dresses and feathered hats and men equally resplendent in tail coats and top hats were all carefully accentuated in a deep Parisian red.  The staging was enhanced by some memorable choreography of children chanting, dancing and clapping. In the midst of this, the toy seller, Papaginoli (Philip Costovski), clambers on his box and does his Greatest Show Man routine. A perfect slice of French life.

Opera Holland Park La bohème  Comic Elements

The arrival of Benoît (Henry Grant Kerswell) is always a treat; the landlord who comes to collect his rent but becomes entrapped by over sharing with his tenants who then taunt him over his womanising and throw him out. Kerswell did not disappoint, dressed in a baggy suit with a splendid voice and comical moves. Later, he plays Alcindor at the Café Momus, an elderly suitor who is perfect prey for the women of the night. Much hilarity ensues from his oafish gestures and nauseating table manners.

Musetta, a Femme Fatale with Strong Vocals

There was a standout performance from Musetta (Elizabeth Karani) with her big voice and equally large repertoire of femme fatale poses…a scary wench if there ever was one. In her duet with Marcello (Ross Ramgobin) there’s no need to read the surtitles, or speak fluent Italian, to realise that he was singing something on the lines of “Wimmen! Can’t live with them and can’t live without them”.

Directing and Conducting Triumphed Over the Usual La bohème Pitfalls

One of the tricky issues in directing La bohème concerns the Act IV attic scene with its macho camaraderie between Rodolfo, Schaunard, Colline and Marcello. If played towards the audience, it looks awkward and unconvincing and if acted more naturally facing each other, it is difficult to distinguish the voices. Natascha Metherill manages to get this just right.

The British bass, Barnaby Rea, in the role of Colline, decides to pawn his beloved jacket to pay for Mimi’s medicines. He sings “Vecchia zimarra” with deep, powerful vocals and laddish, gallic gestures. The conductor is to be commended for ensuring that this aria is nice and slow as befitting a funeral dirge.

The City of London Sinfonia Orchestra Capably Led by George Jackson

The City of London Sinfonia was capably conducted by George Jackson. He produced an almost cinematic, musical backdrop to the action leaving plenty of space for occasional pieces which were sung a capella. The music in the street scenes was bright and lively. Violins exquisitely played some befitting, sadder notes when the lovers decide to separate and on Mimì’s death scene.

Opera Holland Park’s La bohème Ticks Most of My Boxes

While the 1950s fit set staging was not entirely plausible, Opera Holland Park ensures that its La bohème is a knockout with a poignant capture of love, forceful arias, warm street vignettes, cosy café scenes and joyful camaraderie set against a backdrop of poverty, parting and death.  There were many wet eyes in the house as the lights went up.

 


If you enjoy opera you may like to read our other opera reviews. We have previously reviewed ENO’s La bohème. If you are new to opera you may also enjoy our blog post on tips for a perfect night at the London opera.


 

Performances until 5 August 2023. A few tickets remain and they can be purchased from the Opera Holland Park La Boheme website.

Lewes – An Artisan Hub with Woodstock Vibes

Lewes
Lewes

Lewes in East Sussex is the perfect day trip from London. Just an hour away by train, you’ll find a town which is infinitely more picturesque than neighbouring Brighton and more accessible than the Cotswolds but with green rolling countryside and historic buildings.  Moreover, Lewes is a stone’s throw from the sea at Seaford and near many interesting villages with a Bloomsbury Set connection.

Lewes – A Memorable Day Trip

Lewes, a few decades ago,  used to be a pretty but dull, small town with a decidedly lefty vibe. It was home to bearded Sussex University academics who couldn’t face bumping into their Brighton based students while drinking at their local.

Lewes High Street with pretty period houses
Lewes High Street with pretty period houses

However, in recent years Lewes has started to develop a Woodstock buzz with pavement cafes, craft galleries and artisan food shops with its beating heart in the south of the town around the picturesque Harvey’s Brewery.

Lewes Antique Emporiums

Lewes is jam packed with antique emporiums where numerous dealers trade out of a single outlet. Here you will find a genuine English souvenirs like Victorian embroidered English napkins, table cloths, cut glassware, bone handled cutlery, perfume bottles, vases and Sixties toys. Best of all there is no London, or posh store, mark up.

Lewes Antique Shops
Lewes Antique Shops

 

The Flint Owl Bakery Artisan Bakery 

Enter the Flint Owl Bakery and you will be dazzled by dozens of freshly baked cakes; each one is a delectable work of art. Popular choices are the fruit and cream meringues and carrot cake. Their selections change daily. At lunchtime you will find quiches and rustic bean salads, artisan toasted sandwiches, home-made lasagne and meaty sausage rolls. On a sunny day, there is nothing more perfect than having lunch in the rear garden, sipping wine and chatting to friends.

 

The Needlemakers Craft Hub

The Needlemakers is an artistic hub just behind the high street housing dozens of craft shops. You’ll find quirky pottery, vintage finds, books, unique clothing, hand-made jewellery, speciality foods and a vegan café.

Lewes Aerial View
Lewes Aerial View

Thrifting in Lewes Charity Shops 

Thrifting in the half a dozen charity shops is also a great sport…you’ll have a fun few hours rifling through clothes, books and knick-knacks.

 

Oxfam has the best books and the worst clothes!

 

Lewes Castle –  A Norman Ruin

If schlepping up Castle Hill wasn’t enough exercise, you could climb yet further to the top of Lewes Castle. This Norman castle was built after the Battle of Hastings by William the Conqueror’s supporters.

As you’d expect the castle is now a crumbing ruin but you can enjoy its beautiful gardens which are the perfect place for a picnic.

Lewes Castle
Lewes Castle

 

The Bull House – Home to Thomas Paine 

Thomas Paine famed for writing the Rights of Man lived at Bull House at the top of Lewes High Street from 1768 – 1774 and he married the landlord’s daughter. It seems that Lewes had an anarchist and alternative vibe even those days.

The Bull House, Lewes
The Bull House Lewes

The Rights of Man Pub

The Rights of Man pub is named after Thomas Paine’s famous book and almost opposite the Bull’s Head in the High Street  is this atmospheric pub. It comes into its own in the evening with several rooms dedicated to dining with dark wood panelling and a small but perfectly executed menu.

“This stylish pub, whose name reflects the fact that Thomas Paine once called Lewes home, is one of the best places to pair local Harvey’s ale with well executed food, albeit with a definite Continental lean. Wood panelling, art deco lighting and a summer terrace makes things feel a long way from the average British boozer”

Lonely Planet

 

Balmy, Beachy Seaford

The sea with a pebble beach is within a short drive from Lewes. Seaford is a traditional seaside resort with a beach shack café serving drinks and snacks. More energetic types can walk along its pretty white cliffs. The rest of us can breathe in the sea air and marvel at the waves and seagulls while sipping strong English breakfast tea.

Sitting on the beach trestle tables is particularly enjoyable early in the morning on a Summer’s day where locals gather and chat before the holidaymakers arrive.

The Beach at Seaford
The Beach at Seaford

Artistic Decadence at Charleston House

Charleston was the rented home of the Bloomsbury Set a group of artists, historians, writers and thinkers who used the house as their wartime refuge.

Charleston House
Charleston House

It is where the homosexual Duncan Grant had an affair with the artist Vanessa Bell. Her husband the art historian Clive Bell would visit frequently from London and the economist (and Duncan Grant’s lover) John Maynard Keynes had his own room.

 

“They lived in squares, painted in circles and loved in triangles”

Dorothy Parker

 

Inside the house you can marvel at their unique naive pottery and wall decorations.

 

The garden at the rear of the house is exquisitely planted in its original style – a riot of clashing colours with plants tightly amassed and offset by Vanessa Bell’s mosaics.

Garden at Charleston House near Lewes
Garden at Charleston House near Lewes

There is a café serving huge slabs of home-made cake and a Summer arts festival.

Their volunteer tour guides are particularly fun to talk to – they are as an eclectic bunch of Bohemians as the original inhabitants.

Cake and coffee at the Charleston House Cafe
Cake and coffee at the Charleston House Cafe

Village Pubs and Bloomsbury Graves in Firle

Firle village is the final resting place of the Bloomsbury Set…the graves of Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant and her husband, Clive Bell can be found in the local church.

St Peter's Church with the Bloomsbury graves
St Peter’s Church with the Bloomsbury graves

When Clive Bell used to visit his wife at Charleston he used to stay here the Ram Inn.

The Ram Inn  is still plying a vigorous trade and is a popular dinner spot for Lewes locals. You may also enjoy their breakfast menu which is served until 11am. You’ll find everything from yoghurt, berries and granola to poached eggs with avocado on toast and of course the full English.

Avocado and poached eggs on toast with smoked salmon at the Ram Inn near Lewes
Avocado and poached eggs on toast with smoked salmon at the Ram Inn near Lewes

On a rainy day, you can park yourself inside its black painted interior with a crackling fire

Interior of the Ram Inn at Firle near Lewes
Interior of the Ram Inn at Firle near Lewes

And in the summer months you can enjoy the outside terrace which overlooks its picturesque high street.

 

Before you leave take a stroll through the village to marvel at the quaint cottages many of which have garden produce being sold on trestle tables outside accompanied by an honesty box to leave some change.

Fire near Lewes Village Post Office and General Store
Fire near Lewes Village Post Office and General Store
Garden grown produce outside houses in Fire
Garden grown produce outside houses in Fire

If you miss breakfast at the Ram Inn there is an amazing mobile cafe on the main road before the turn off that does bacon and egg sandwiches and cappuccino. You can sit on a faux sheepskin covered stool at the side of the van and tuck into your butty while enjoying the country views.

The perfect bacon and egg butty.
The perfect bacon and egg butty.

Bloomsbury War Murals at Berwick Church

Berwick Church is home to the original war murals painted by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant making this is a perfect next stop if you are on a Bloomsbury Set pilgrimage. These paintings were commissioned by Bishop Bell in 1941 and are the only example of a traditional village church being decorated by renowned contemporary artists. The murals are now showing signs of flaking and a restoration appeal is currently underway.

 

Chocolate Box Alfriston with its British Winery

Alfriston is the quintessential Sussex Village. Its high street has beautiful period houses bedecked with plants and interlaced with small private shops…a book shop, cards, a vintage clothes shop with delightful period costume jewellery and the 15th century The Star Inn. This has recently been acquired by the Polizzi family (Alex Polizzi of the TV Hotel Inspector fame) with its legendary fastidious standards.

A picture perfect house in Alfriston
A picture perfect house in Alfriston
The General Store in Alfriston
The General Store in Alfriston

If you are planning a romantic weekend there is no finer village to take your beloved to.

 

The Alfriston car parks start filling up as the hour of afternoon tea approaches. The Singing Kettle which overlooks the village square, has  sweet and savoury scones and delicious home-made cakes. Try and grab one their outside tables and you can watch the world go by.

The Singing Kettle in Alfriston
The Singing Kettle in Alfriston

Or if you are into fine dining and wine tasting, you can visit the local Rathfinny Wine Estate and sample their world class sparkling wines while taking in the views out over the vineyards.

The Tasting Room is open for two and three course lunches from Wednesday to Sunday. Their menu changes weekly according the produce in season.

Rathfinny Wine Estate
Rathfinny Wine Estate

 

Beddingham – A Walkers and Cyclists Paradise

If you are a hiker, walker or cyclist there is no better base to explore Lewes and the  South Downs way than the YHA at Beddingham.  Converted from farm buildings, YHA hostel had a multi-million pound restoration before opened by the Queen. The café is idyllic with views of the rolling South Downs. And it is convivial. In the evening grab a bottle of modestly priced wine from the cafe and go to the farm house lounge where you will make new friends with the most fascinating people.

The YHA at Beddingham
The YHA at Beddingham

Trains to Lewes

Trains run from London Victoria to Lewes and take approximately an hour.

There is a train from Lewes to Beddingham (for the YHA) and Seaford. Check the timetables.

You can purchase tickets in advance from the Trainline.

 

Driving to Lewes

If you are driving it will take 1.45 mins to 2.15 mins to drive from London and Seaford, Firle, Berwick Alfriston  and Charleston are all within a 15-20 minute drive. There’s free parking in Firle, Charleston and on Seaford seafront with paid parking in Alfriston and Lewes.

If you enjoy green and wooded areas you may want to visit Richmond Park in London.