Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch Review

The Les 110 Taillevent lunch menu

Les 110 de Taillevent has one of the most exclusive lunch menus in London. Treat yourself to exquisite food accompanied by one of 110 wines served by the glass in a luxe gentleman’s club style setting. 

As one of a stout and portly disposition, I find myself visiting a Wimpole Street nutritionist on the regular. We spend an hour discussing the perils of eating French fries, bread and other evil carbs all the while taking measurements, body composition and blood pressure. At the end of my appointment, I find a nice restaurant to while away a few hours as I then have a full month before I subject myself to the same medical ordeal.

Les 110 de Taillevent

 

 

The Les 110 Taillevent lunch menu displayed outside on its iron railings.
The Les 110 Taillevent lunch menu displayed outside on its iron railings.

 

History

To be fully armed you need to have some understanding of Les 110 Taillevent history. It is the sister restaurant of the iconic Michelin starred restaurant Le Taillevent in Paris  which serves classical gastronomic French food. Les 110 Taillevent is famous for its wines and has won a procession of awards for fine wine, young sommelier and best restaurant. It is the very  antithesis of showy, gaudy and fashionista dining…it exudes classical and refined elegance in everything from decor to the froth on the coffee.

 

Location

So it was with some delight that I found Les 110 de Taillevent conveniently positioned nearby on the corner of Harley Street and overlooking Cavendish Square – a mere stone’s throw from the rear of John Lewis, Oxford Street and a convenient five-minute walk from the Elizabeth Line Hanover Square exit.

Entrance to Les 110 Taillevent
Entrance to Les 110 Taillevent

Ambiance

Les 110 de Taillevent has a reassuringly subdued stone exterior with gilded signage and neat outdoor seating under calico umbrellas.  The interior is a classy moss green reminiscent of a gentleman’s club.

Moss green gentleman's club interior of Les 110 Taillevant.
Moss green gentleman’s club interior of Les 110 Taillevant.

 

On this occasion, I enticed my nutritionist to lunch where we imbibed and munched through the very dishes and beverages that she had just spent an hour advising me not to eat.

 

 

The Legendary Wine List

 

110 wines are available by the glass at lunch.
110 wines are available by the glass at lunch.

Les 110 Taillevent is noted for its cellar with 110 wines served by the glass. I left my doctor friend to ponder this extensive selection and she chose well. We had a leggy, full-bodied Côtes du Rhône, Le Clos du Caillou, 2016 which had smooth, smoke and pepper notes.

Lunch Hours

The Les 110 Taillevent Lunch Menu is served from 12.00 to 14.30  Monday to Friday and contains a la carte menu plates.

Service

The first thing that strikes you about Les 110 Taillevent is the service which is suited in monochrome, discreet and friendly. Despite arriving without a reservation, the manager was  keen to offer us his best available table with a view over Harley Street.

Bread

Crusty bread and salted whipped butter
Crusty bread and salted whipped butter

My doctor friend and I looked longingly at the hot bread and whipped salted butter which is on the diet verboten list. The waiter gave us a little nudge and told us it was amazing and we were like runners off a starting block. The bread was chewy and flavoursome and the sweet butter had a mousse consistency and which was offset by flaked sea salt.

 

Complimentary Canapes

Complimentary canapés of cheese gougere and smoked salmon and avocado mousse tart.
Complimentary canapés of cheese gougere and smoked salmon and avocado mousse tart.

The complimentary canapes of salmon and avocado and cheese puffs, precision arranged on a grey slate, were a tasty portend of things to come.

 

Starters

Squid in broth a jewelled work of art.
Squid in broth a jewelled work of art.

On the day that we visited Les 110 Taillevent there was a choice of a Cashew Nut Soup with marcona almonds, kohlrabi and seasonal fruits or Squid with bell pepper, chorizo, courgette in a butter sauce to start.

 

Our starter arrived in huge black rimmed saucers. There was nothing visually resembling squid on the plate. It looked like a bowl of gem stones garnished with black lace. The creamy broth was liberally spattered with red onion, courgette and flat parsley and garnished with delicate sheet seaweed. It was as delicious as it was visually stunning.

 

Mains

The Les 110 Taillevent lunch mains include Welsh cuts of lamb individually and perfectly cooked.
The Les 110 Taillevent lunch mains include Welsh cuts of lamb individually and perfectly cooked.

The menu choices were Welsh Lamb Saddle with aubergine, yoghurt, blackcurrant and a lamb jus or Cod with heritage tomatoes, basil in a tomato broth.

 

Our lamb was cooked to tender perfection- various lamb cuts were individually cooked some caramelised with slivers of fat, others stewed and rolled or pan fried to a perfect pink with a floral garnish and accompanied by a jug of hot jus.

 

If I am to criticise anything in this otherwise perfect meal, I would suggest that the mains could be served with a vegetable garnish.

 

We shared a side dish of glazed tenderstem broccoli with sesame seeds which was extra to the set lunch menu. This was neither chewy or al dente and the glaze and sesame seeds provided an interesting oriental flavour.

 

 

Desserts

The signature 70% chocolate mousse was the perfect ending to our Les 110 Taillevent lunch.
The signature 70% chocolate mousse was the perfect ending to our Les 110 Taillevent lunch.

I was delighted to see their signature chocolate mousse with a 70% hot chocolate sauce on the Les 110 Taillevant lunch menu. The other choice was their Cox apple terrine flavoured with cinnamon and a Granny Smith sorbet.

 

Recalling my doctor’s earlier advice, we discussed for a nano second sharing a dessert. Fortunately, we came quickly to our senses. Our waiter was most reassuring and agreed that when out at lunch we should eat exactly what we fancy.

 

When the plate of chocolate pudding topped with a quenelle of chocolate mousse and hot chocolate sauce arrived we knew we had made the right call. The distinct but complimentary chocolate textures were a tastebud operetta.

 

Coffee

Les 110 Taillevent prepare a black Americano with a perfect crema and smooth taste
Les 110 Taillevent prepare a black Americano with a perfect crema and smooth taste

Black Americanos were a final and ineffectual nod to our diets. These were smooth with a pleasing crema.

 

Complimentary Petit Fours

We were presented with delicate brioches topped with a piping of chocolate mousse and juicy jellies garnished with gold leaf…perfect mouthfuls.

 

 

Bill

The bill was in the region of £190 and included service. While it is not the cheapest lunch in the vicinity it is doubtless the most elegant.

 


Have you enjoyed our Les 110 Taillevent lunch review? You may also like our review of the Brasserie Zedel Set Menus. Brasserie Zedel is a beautiful Art Deco restaurant in the heart of Piccadilly.  It is at the other end of the lunch budget spectrum.


Walking Off the Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch

I parted company from my doctor who needed to get back to work. The Wallace Collections is a gentle stroll from here and houses delightful paintings. Browsing in Daunt Books may also be a fun post prandial activity.

 


We have more suggestions on how to spend a pleasant few hours in the nearby vicinity of Marylebone.  See our post on Marylebone on a Budget.


 

Our Verdict on the Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch

 

We had a lovely, un-rushed afternoon with all the attention that you would expect in private dining room.  While the set lunch is not cheap, it represents good value for such an elegant venue. The food presentation is exquisite. Delicate garnishes were tweezered and arranged into a veritable Monet work of art.

 

Contact Details for Les 110 de Taillevent lunch

Address

Les 110 de Taillevent
16 Cavendish Square
London W1G 9DD

Telephone

+44 20 3141 6016

Website

Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch Menu

The Les 110 de Taillevent Lunch Menu is served from Monday to Saturday: 12pm to 2:30pm

 

 

 

 

 

 

Where to have coffee and cake in London? – Ask a Londoner

Coffee and cake in London.
Coffee and cake in London.

Having coffee and cake in London is one of life’s greatest pleasures. You look forward to it all morning and commence your prowl through London streets hoping to stumble upon the perfect place with the most enticing of selections.

 

Coffee and Cake in London

Your chosen spot for coffee and cake in London needs to have just the right mix of patisserie, fruit selections, chocolate concoctions and iced sponge cakes. Now before you get excited, I have never found such an establishment and I know London quite well. The cake situation is divided pretty much into cafes which sell old fashioned English cakes  e.g. Victoria sponge, carrot cake, coffee and walnut cake and Bakewell tart. And more predominantly, there are French style patisseries that serve croissants, fruit tarts and mille feuille.

 

Choose London Cafes with Great Ambience Near Interesting Locations

Good cakes are never the only consideration when hunting down coffee and cake in London; we also need to factor in  location and ambience…there’s no point in hounding the most exquisite cakes if they are served in a dingy, greasy spoon cafe in the back of beyond.

In the summer, there is nothing more delightful than sitting outside with a great London street view and watching people walk past casting admiring glances at your thoughtfully chosen cake.

 

Select Quality Coffee in Porcelain cups and Tea Served in Teapots

Honestly, I am not the sort of person who can tell a good coffee from a bad one. However, tea is a different story. Most cafes serving coffee and cake in London worth their salt will at least offer an English Breakfast tea and an Earl Grey. But I like to go for a pot of tea…none of those paper cups for me, thank you.


If your preferred tipple is tea instead of coffee why not check out our posts on where to buy tea in London and this particularly delicious London Roast tea blend from Postcard Teas.


So let’s get into it

 

The Connaught Patisserie in Mount Street, Mayfair

Very expensive, exquisite looking London cake concoctions

An embossed napkin at The Connaught Patisserie.
An embossed napkin at The Connaught Patisserie.
The cherry cake at The Connaught Patisserie.
The cherry cake at The Connaught Patisserie.

I had to try the Connaught Patisserie’s coffee and cake, having watched various YouTubers sample the jaw dropping selection and reporting on their equally astonishing prices.

The cakes are works of art category. Many are garnished in gold leaf. And at £16 plus service you’d expect them to be encrusted with gem stones.

I ordered a diminutive decaffeinated cappuccino coffee and the cherry cake with a cherry marmalade, pastry cream and topped with half a dozen perfectly sliced fresh cherries all atop a crunchy biscuit base.

Knowing the bill would be horrific, I just tapped my card without looking. I have just checked my bank account and I paid nearly £27.

Their clientele is mostly Middle Eastern. I got chatting to a lady next to me who was enjoying her strawberry cake. I asked her why there were so many Arabs in this area and she explained that the temperatures in Saudia Arabia were averaging 50c per day and many Saudis came over to London for the summer to escape the heat. They either stayed in their Mayfair holiday home or one of the local hotels. I love the diversity of London.

I asked her about paying these extortionate prices. She sounded surprised. Was this really expensive for coffee and cake in London? This establishment definitely caters for those where money is no object.

The cafe itself is small and modern in a Barbie pink and with great service.

I would say to get the full experience you need to get there in the morning when the cakes are looking their best and there is a full selection. You won’t want to pay £16-£20 for a cake with a dried out topping and then be rushed out of the door at closing time.

The Connaught Patisserie, Carlos Place Mayfair London W1K 2AL

La Fromagerie in Moxon Street, Marylebone

Surprisingly good value coffee and homemade cakes in a friendly atmosphere

The carrot cake at La Fromagerie.
The carrot cake at La Fromagerie.
My slice of carrot cake and coffee served in the La Fromagerie cafe
My slice of carrot cake and coffee served in the La Fromagerie cafe

I have featured the cafe at La Fromagerie on my blog previously. It is an artisanal grocer which specialises in expertly sourced produce. They have a small bakery selection in the back of the shop where you can choose your cake and then sit in the cafe and ask to be brought a slice and a coffee.

The cakes are hand made and use top quality ingredients. The prices are reasonable at approx £4.50 for a generous slice of crumbly, carrot cake with a buttery icing. I spotted some nice looking fresh fruit cakes and chocolate tortes: making a decision was difficult.

There are a few outside tables but I prefer to sit at the back chatting to the staff and customers…everyone I have met exudes bonhomie. This is one of the best places for a coffee and a cake in London.


While you are having your coffee and cake, why not take our quiz on Cockney Rhyming Slang?


La Fromagerie, 2 – 4 Moxon Street, London, W1U 4EW

Wa Japanese Patisserie in Covent Garden and Ealing Broadway

Moderately priced for fantastic quality, stylish coffee and cakes in London

White sesame cheesecake at Wa Patisserie. This is divine.
White sesame cheesecake at Wa Patisserie. This is divine.

Wa produces the most exquisite French style patisserie with a Japanese twist.

Over the years, I have probably had all of their creations…my favourites are their white sesame cheese cake with its black sesame seed base and the Mont Blanc (chestnut cream). If you are one of those peculiar matcha lovers you will delight in their matcha tiramisu and matcha roll.

Chocolate and Praline Cake at Wa Patisserie. One of the most delicious cakes in London.
Chocolate and Praline Cake at Wa Patisserie.One of the most delicious cakes in London.

I have found Londoners grumbling about the prices here but honestly for such expertly created, stylish and photographable cakes, I will happily pay £5-7 a slice.

If you are interested in living dangerously they have a few unique and delicious sweet breads. While not stricty a cake, their An Pan is a soft white bread filled with a sweet, red Azuki bean filling. Bizarre but delicious. Are you brave enough to try their Yakisoba pan with its home cooked noodle filling topped with seaweed and dried fish flakes? At £3.20 it could be worth the risk.

The service in this coffee and cake spot is charming in a uniquely Japanese way. I love their pottery crockery and the zen-clean, white space flecked with gold lights and wood tables.

Wa – Ealing Broadway 32 Haven Green Ealing, London, W5 2NX

Wa – Covent Garden 5 New Row London, WC2N 4LH

Paul in Piccadilly and Paternoster Square

Very reasonable prices and reliable high quality coffee and cake in London with some great locations

Paul for good value, high quality pastries.
Paul for good value, high quality pastries.

Paul may be an odd choice for the best coffee and cake in London as it is a chain bakery and cafe. However, their cakes are reliably good and rival those of the best hotels

Paul’s overlooking St Pauls Cathedral is a great find with outside tables in the historic courtyard. You get that London vibe with delicious cake at favourable prices.

Paul’s on Piccadilly is another marvellous location. If there are no outside tables, I take my cake as a takeaway and buy coffee next door at Pret.  Sandwiched between the glories of the Royal Academy and the Ritz and  just a short stroll to Fortnum and Mason and the Hatchards book shop…what more could any one want?

PAUL St. Paul’s, 2 Paternoster Square, London EC4M 7DX

PAUL Piccadilly Unit 6 Piccadilly Arcade & 173 Piccadilly,  London
SW1Y 6NH

 

 


If you have enjoyed this piece on coffee and cake in London, why not look at our post on London’s best dessert. You may also want to explore our traditional puddings and the history behind them.


 

 

As usual, I have personally tried each of these recommendations. I hope that I have given you some inspiration of where to sample some of the best coffee and cakes in London.

Queen Mary’s Rose Garden – A Sublime Floral Display

 

Queen Mary's Rose Garden
Queen Mary’s Rose Garden

The Queen Mary’s Rose Garden is living proof that anyone can have an experience of a lifetime in London free of charge. These historic gardens containing thousands of roses are an area of peace and tranquility that feed the soul. Come here on a warm Spring day in late May or early June to see the roses when they are at their best.

 

 

I often visit after a trip to the nearby Regents Park Open Air Theatre but there is nothing to stop you bringing a book and a picnic and lying in the sun surrounded by beauty.  Copy the Victorians and make Queen Mary’s Rose Garden it a place to see and be seen.

 

 

What is Queen Mary’s Rose Garden Famous for?

In a single word, roses…to be precise, 12,000 of them, contained in 85 single variety beds. Each year 3 of these beds are replaced with a new variety.

Queen Mary's Rose Garden contains 12,000 roses in 85 single variety beds.
Queen Mary’s Rose Garden contains 12,000 roses in 85 single variety beds.

What is the History of Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

The garden is named after the wife of King George V and was first planted in 1832. In the same way that we might dress up to meet our friends in a pub, club or restaurant the affluent middle classes of the day would wear their best clothes and promenade in their top hats and tea gowns in the rose garden. Fetes and music would be organised in the summer months. It was a place to see and be seen,

Today the Queen Mary’s Rose Garden attracts all sorts of people…newly-weds looking for a back drop for their wedding photographs, professional photographers bearing tripods, local residents taking a stroll, families having picnics, young lovers (it’s the ideal backdrop for a proposal) and of course tourists who have heard about the legendary blooms.

It is a stroke of luck that we have this magnificent garden to enjoy today as there were historic proposals to use the land as a palace for the Prince Regent, the bloated and debauched son of an earlier monarch. Fortunately, he preferred the Buckingham Palace location.

The Four Areas of Queen Mary’s Rose Garden

There are several distinct areas that make up Queen Mary’s Gardens.

The Queen Mary's Rose garden is made up of four distinct areas.
The Queen Mary’s Rose garden is made up of four distinct areas.

The Circular Rose Garden

The original garden was the circular rose garden with its rose-festooned border of white and pink roses that provide a colourful living wall.

The Triton Borders

The Victorian jungle beds known as the Triton Borders have flamboyant jewel like colours with contrasting begonias, huge palms and ferns. These are linked to the famous garden designer William Robinson who worked for the Royal Botanical Society. He was a big fan of subtropical bedding containing hardy plants placed in natural arrangements.

Don’t be mystified if you see plastic buckets in the borders. These are place holders for plants that are on order and waiting to be delivered.

The Sausage Border

There is also a herbaceous border called the Sausage Border because of its shape. This has a planting scheme of deep red peonies and ornamental rhubarb spikes

The Mediterranean Garden

The Mediterranean Garden has been made possible by improving the water-logged London clay soil with plenty of sand to allow acacias, palm trees and purple alliums to thrive.

When Should I Visit Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

Very late May and early June is the best time for seeing the roses in full bloom. Most roses have a second showing in August and September but your photos maybe spoiled by the faded blooms of earlier flowerings. The delphinium border is at its best in June.

Can you find the plant sculpture of an elephant which is hidden in one of the borders?

How Do I Research Roses Before my Visit?

Before you visit, familiarise yourself with the different types of English roses. The varieties that you will see in the garden are:

  • Hybrid tea
  • Polyantha
  • Climbing
  • Rambling
  • Damask
  • Gallica
  • Alba
  • Centifolia
  • Floribunda
  • Patio
  • Ground Cover

As a general rule, the older varieties are less magnificent looking but have a stronger smell and the newer hybrids are amazing to look at but with less scent.

You can find out more about the different types of roses at the Gardener’s World website.

If you see a rose that you like you can almost certainly buy it online from one of our many rose firms, so don’t forget to photograph the plant label.

Tips for Photographing Roses Using a Smart phone

Any amateur can get very successful results using these tips;

  • Use natural light to photograph flowers as overcast days give a softer look
  • Mornings are the best time as the roses are fresh and often have dew drops
  • Crouch or kneel to get to the same level as the flowers
  • Use the close up/flower function on your phone’s photograph menu
  • Take a lot of photographs at different angles and closeness
  • Fill the frame and block out as much of the background as possible for rose close ups.
  • Check for unwanted things in your picture e.g. people, litter bins, insects
  • Use the crop facility on your camera to edit your photos and make the flowers bigger.

 

How Do I Get to Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

There is an 8-10 minute walk which ever tube you take as the rose garden is in the centre of Regent’s Park. The nearest underground stations are Great Portland Street, Bakers Street and Regents Park.

 

How Much Does it Cost to Visit Queen Mary’s Rose Garden?

The entry to Queen Mary’s Gardens is free of charge.

 

If you like gardens, be sure to see out post on Kew Gardens in Winter.

 

 

 

Is this the Best London Dessert?

We weren’t in search of the best London dessert. It found us as we were dining at The Wolseley, Piccadilly. Who would have thought that this marbled, monochrome London establishment, famed for its European cuisine, could be home to the most enormously exquisite banana split?

London Dessert at The Wolseley, Piccadilly
London Dessert at The Wolseley, Piccadilly

We Spotted this London Dessert on an Adjacent Table

Frankly we’d already stuffed our faces. My companion had partaken of the Hungarian Goulash with spaetzl noodles and I had indulged in a medium rare flat iron steak with a buttery bernaise sauce flecked with tarragon, pommes frites and a green salad. We were about to call it a day and finish with a modest macchiato coffee.  Then the waiter brought flamboyant ice cream coupes to the next table.

We stopped in our tracks. We put our gossip on hold. We turned to question these young men.

Their faces were beaming as you only do when you know that you have made the perfect menu choice. And no one was beaming more than the man who had ordered the best London dessert, The Wolseley banana split!

So caution was thrown to the wind. Fortunately, The Wolseley menu that we were given did not contain the calories of this banana split dessert confection (which I have since discovered online to be a whopping 1004).

The Wolseley Pared Down London Pudding Menu

Banana split has a bad rap. It seems like a strange choice for a London pudding pared down Wolseley menu.

It conjures up images of synthetic flavoured strawberry, chocolate and vanilla ice creams doused in a sauce that has never seen a chocolate bean and gaudy maraschino cherries sitting on a plainly split slightly un ripe banana…and woolfed down by college students in a kitsch 1950s diner.

The banana split was invented by an optometrist in 1904, David “Doc” Strickler from Pennsylvania who bought a drugstore and charged 10 cents for the creation,  twice the price of every other dessert on the menu.

Clearly this snippet of history has obviously given the The Wolseley in Piccadilly the courage to charge £11.95 for this dessert delicacy).

Memorable Chef Inspired Elements

There were many many things that make the Wolseley’s banana split the best  London dessert…

It is served in bespoke boat shaped pressed glassware on The Wolseley’s monogrammed china. The starched pristine table cloths and genuine electroplated cutlery look as if they have been in service since the turn of the century.

This London dessert delicacy is carried to the table like a religious icon in a church service and placed on the table with greatest of reverence.

And on to the components of this London dessert…
The perfect banana is crisply caramelised in butter and sugar.

Raspberry sauce nestles in folds of whipped cream in London's most sumptuous dessert finale.
Raspberry sauce nestles in folds of whipped cream in London’s most sumptuous dessert finale.

The finest London ice cream, tastes of nothing but egg yolks, cream and vanilla.

Double cream is whipped, aerosoled and perfectly dispensed in a precise, lacy frill.

Someone in the kitchen has taken fresh raspberries. Then combined them with sugar and strained the resulting syrup to remove the seeds before delicately dribbling it over the cream. Notice how the raspberry puree nestles in the folds of the cream with none of it dripping on to the ice cream below.

Crushed nuts, browned to a perfect pale shade of toastiness are scattered on top of this exquisite creation.

And let us not forget the chocolate sauce…bitter, rich with a just-melted-from-a-bar-of-70%-cocoa-solids taste is served in a small silver plated jug.

A rich chocolate sauce in a silver plated jug accompanies London's best dessert.
A rich chocolate sauce in a silver plated jug accompanies London’s best dessert.

My Suggestion for London Dessert Superlativeness

Such perfection is difficult to improve on.  My modest suggestion (if I dare) would be to include a small jug of caramel for those that prefer this to chocolate. It would add a level of Americaness, but why not? Fusion can only be a good thing when it comes to dessert heaven in London.

You may also enjoy our piece about great British puddings.

You can make a reservation at The Wolseley and sample their other delectable desserts by visiting their website here. Or you may want to peruse The Wolseley menu. But whatever you do make sure that you sample this spectacular London dessert.

 

Photographing Saint Paul’s Cathedral Using a Smart Phone

Saint Paul’s Cathedral can be tricky to photograph due to its soaring height and sprawling mass. Here are my tips for using the rabbit warren of streets and buildings around the cathedral to obtain an interesting range of photographic angles and back drops.

Photographing Saint Paul's Cathedral.
Photographing Saint Paul’s Cathedral.

 

Saint Paul’s Cathedral Photographic Walking Tours

I went on a guided walk with Alistair Hilton, a professional photographer and used an iPhone 11 with the Snapseed App for filters and special effects.

Saint Paul’s is one of London’s most famous landmarks. It was built by Christopher Wren in 1666 after the Great Fire of London destroyed the previous church. At 366 feet high, it has one of the largest domes in the world. Winston Churchill had a State Funeral here in 1965 and it was the stage for the wedding of Lady Diana Spencer to Prince Charles in 1981.

Saint Paul's Cathedral sandwiched between two high rise buildings makes an interesting photograph.
Saint Paul’s Cathedral sandwiched between two high rise buildings makes an interesting photograph.

This image was taken using the panoramic setting on my phone. Start taking the photograph from the top and bring the camera slowly down.

Use the Adjacent Pillars in Paternoster Square to Add Depth to your Photograph of Saint Paul’s Dome

 

St Paul's Cathedral framed by an historic arch.
St Paul’s Cathedral framed by an historic arch.

Here, I made use of an arch in Paternoster Square to act as a frame for the dome of Saint Paul’sCcathedral.

Using depth and monochrome photographic features to add drama to Saint Paul's Cathedral.
Using depth and monochrome photographic features to add drama to Saint Paul’s Cathedral.

The pillars in the foreground of the photo add depth to the photograph and the black and white setting adds drama.

Photograph People on the West Facade Cathedral Steps

Using the panorama function on the iPhone camera to give scale to the West Facade.
Using the panorama function on the iPhone camera to give scale to the West Facade.

This is the west facade of St Paul’s and I used the panaoramic function. By photographing people on the steps, I was able to give a sense of scale.

Foreground the Many Statues Around Saint Paul’s Cathedral

Statues in the foreground of Saint Paul's Cathedral and trees make for a romantic setting.
Statues in the foreground of Saint Paul’s Cathedral and trees make for a romantic setting.

There are plenty of statues around the building that can show the cathedral in a more romantic context. I think that this photograph looks a bit French like a view of Paris!

Dusk and Christmas lights from the adjacent shopping centre give this photograph of St Paul's Cathedral a Christmassy feel.
Dusk and Christmas lights from the adjacent shopping centre give this photograph of St Paul’s Cathedral a Christmassy feel.

Use the Plate Glass Shop Windows for Interesting Photographic Reflections of Saint Paul’s Cathedral

Opposite, the East Facade of the cathedral there is a new shopping centre with plate glass that provides interesting reflections aided by dusk and twinkling Christmas decorations.

A skyline shot of the cathedral at dusk.
A skyline shot of the cathedral at dusk.

If you are interested in photographing a stunning gold mosaic chapel at the opposite end of the size scale to St Paul’s cathedral check out our post on the Fitzrovia Chapel.


Photograph Saint Paul’s Cathedral at Dusk From the Shopping Centre Rooftop

As the light continued to fall, I took the elevator to the roof of the shopping centre to take some panoramic shots that encapsulated the sky and the church dome.

The spire employing the one third photographic rule.
The spire employing the one third photographic rule.

A shot using interesting cloud formations.
A shot using interesting cloud formations.

St Paul's at dusk.
St Paul’s at dusk.

Using the top of wall to ground the shot.
Using the top of wall to ground the shot.

A panoramic shot of St Pauls and the London skyline at dusk.
A panoramic shot of St Pauls and the London skyline at dusk.

If you are interested in photography you may want to try your hand at photographing nature at Richmond Park, Kew or Queen Mary’s Rose Garden.

More About London Smart Phone Photography Tours

If you are lucky enough to find a smart phone walking tour, take it!

These courses are nicely paced and a great way of improving your photographic skills while getting some gentle exercise in the company of interesting people.

Look for photographic walks with Alistair Hilton at London Guided Walks, Going Digital and Benson Spiers. You may also see London photography tours advertised on Time Out or Meet Up.

Have fun photographing Saint Pauls Cathedral and we would love it if you showed your results on our Londonology Facebook Page.

ENO La traviata – Minimal Staging Showcases Powerful Performances

ENO La traviata

ENO La traviata Review – 28 October 2023 by Maxine Morse

The ENO’s La traviata has the feel of a Parisian 1920’s nightclub, enveloped in blacks and reds, with a cast in tuxedos and bob haircuts. The pared down staging puts the focus firmly on stand-out vocals, intense dramatic sequences and beautifully controlled conducting.

We are invited on a two-hour rollercoaster, taking a stomach-churning lurch to the highs of Violetta’s parties, where her inebriated frenemies are willing her downfall.  Then there is a slow dip into her life in the country while she pursues true love before our carriage goes through a dark tunnel when she rejects her lover before we reach a slithering halt in her failing health and death.

If you are accustomed to the many fin de siècle productions of La Traviata, with their stately homes and tulle ballgowns, you may find Johannes Leiacker’s set a challenge. Almost devoid of props and scenery, layers of red velvet curtains are tugged, drawn and pulled to create the various scene changes.

Minimalist staging in ENO La Traviata © Belinda Jiao
Minimalist staging in ENO La Traviata © Belinda Jiao

The delicious period feel is largely down to the chorus direction with its joyful goading and clenching of wine glasses at the party to the casino where the chorus purposefully stride across the stage and toss playing cards – minimalist but immensely effective.

Exquisite Chorus Direction in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao
Exquisite Chorus Direction in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao

The revival director, Ruth Knight gets to the heart of Verdi’s preoccupation with realism in her characterisation of the principal part. Violetta is not the archetypical fallen woman but an embodiment of mystique, power and angst brought down by her relationships with inferior, impotent men and seen through the narrow prism of societal constraints.

Nicole Chevalier brings strength to the role of Violetta with her glorious tsunami of raw emotions. By her final aria Addio del passato (‘It’s over, all those memories full of laughter’) she has lost her wig and her soulful lament is one that will haunt the audience long after the opera is over.

The antithesis of Violetta is her lover, Alfredo Germont (Jose Simerilla Romero). This beige-cardiganed, socially-awkward bookworm conveys all the personality of damp cardboard. Romero rises perfectly to this challenge by first seducing us with his febrile veneration of love and then blasting us with forceful vocals as he blames Violetta for shaming him.

Completing this dark triad is Alfredo Germont’s father. Giorgio Germont performed by Roland Wood is convincing in his display of oily, bourgeois respectability as he coaxes and cajoles Violetta to leave his son in order to protect the family’s reputation.

Nicole Chevalier as Violetta in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao
Nicole Chevalier as Violetta in ENO La Traviata at the London Coliseum © Belinda Jiao

In the final scene, the supporting performers enter from the rear of the stalls and approach the stage to look on Violetta’s demise as if from the audience perspective – each one exuding a powerful  and almost frozen  presence.

Verdi’s score sparkles under the baton of Richard Farnes from the energy of brindisi with its insistent rhythms to the slower and perfectly controlled movements of the final death scene.

Richard Barnes conductor sparkles in ENO la traviata © Belinda Jiao
Richard Barnes conductor sparkles in ENO la traviata © Belinda Jiao

The director’s decision to forego an interval has the effect of asking the audience to drink a triple shot of absinthe…performing La traviata without a pause adds not only to the psychological intensity but also to the audience’s physiological discomfort. And when it ended no one leapt for the doors; instead, thundering applause and foot stamping brought the house down.

 


Maxine Morse

Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.

Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.


UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON
La traviata at the English National Opera.
Nicole Chevalier as Violetta, Jose Simerilla Romero as Alfredo and Roland Wood as Giorgio Germont in the Peter Konwitschny production of Verdi’s La traviata continuing the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the London Colosseum. The opening night for ENO’s La traviata is on the 23 October with performances up until the 12th November.

 

ENO Iolanthe – Superb Spectacle, Slapstick, Satire and Staging

ENO Iolanthe 2023

ENO Iolanthe Review – 10 October 2023 by Maxine Morse

 

If ENO’s Iolanthe were a cake it would be a Unicorn cake with a deep buttercream icing and liberally covered with edible glitter and hundreds and thousands with a surprising layer of tongue tingling popping candy.

 

The director Cal McCrystal’s hallmarks are retro spectacle and masterly comic timing with splashes of whimsy and political satire. When combined with the unique talents of conductor Chris Hopkins, who takes a precision aim at delivering musical oomph, and Paul Brown, the Dior of costume and set design, the overall effect is nothing but a full-on sugar rush.

 

I am not a big fan of Gilbert and Sullivan’s prologues but Clive Mantle as Captain Shaw fluffed the audience with a good poking of fun at the opera going classes and a portent of fire-fighting silliness.

Clive Mantle, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Clive Mantle, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

The late Paul Brown’s set resembles a 1950’s children’s book with its die cut wing and backdrops. The opera’s pièce de resistance is a life size steam locomotive which bursts through as if straight out of the comic golden age, unloading its cargo of crown and gown clad peers. Such was the stunning effect that I was sitting next to a world-weary television personality who broke the Coliseum’s strict ‘no photography’ rule and whipped his phone out to take a sneaky snap. Do not try this yourself!

Ruairi Bowen, Ben McAteer, ENO Chrous, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Ruairi Bowen, Ben McAteer, ENO Chrous, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

Iolanthe has been banished from the fairy world for getting married to a mortal. Her son, a lowly Arcadian shepherd, falls in love with the equally vacuous, toile costumed Arcadian shepherdess, Phyllis. As ward of the chancery, she needs the permission of the Lord Chancellor to wed. Unfortunately, every dull, titled, money and status obsessed peer of the realm, including her guardian, is keen to wed her. Will she be allowed to marry her heart’s desire, or is she condemned to wed one of her less suited suitors? And what about those cute fairies who are besotted with those same dullards? Will they be allowed to live a life of wedded bliss or be condemned to death? We shall see…

Marcus Farnsworth, Ellie Laugharne, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Marcus Farnsworth, Ellie Laugharne, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

 

Strephon (Marcus Farnsworth) the Arcadian shepherd has a touch of David Walliams about him, slightly obtuse and ditzy, a personality twin to the all-too-perfect Phyllis (Ellie Laugharne). Both carry the audience with their charming comical antics and deliberations.

John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor is a Gilbert and Sullivan stalwart. He excelled as Captain Corcoran in the ENO’s 2021/22 HMS Pinafore and is hot off the Opera Holland Park stage as Ruddigore’s Sir Despard Murgatroyd. Savournin, a confident performer with a conversational singing style, made a fast paced word salad of his tongue twisting Chancellor’s Nightmare.

John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor © Craig Fuller
John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor 2023 © Craig Fuller

 

Ruairi Bowen  as Earl Tolloller is a delight to watch as he delivers the crispest vocals of the night with masterly Victorian mannerisms.

Ruairi Bowen, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Ruairi Bowen, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

The off libretto popping candy involved pooping horses, sheep ferried about by stage hands blinded by their camouflage and a shaggy-haired, partying Boris accompanied by a permanently surprised and gormless Michael Gove. A pot shot is taken at Nadine Dorries, who is responsible for the ENO’s current funding crisis, as she hilariously tries to break back in to the Houses of Parliament. And we loved the analogy of the Lord Chancellor having a terrifying nightmare that he had to move the Palace of Westminster to the frozen north as part of the government’s levelling up agenda. Perfect!

 

Did the Lord Chancellor’s page make it out of the performance physically unscathed?  He is bounced from place to place – falling, being clobbered and then dropped from a great height.  Give the marvellous Adam Bown his own one-man comedy show.

 


Please check out our other reviews and if you are new to opera you may find these tips useful for your first visit.


 

The ENO’s Iolanthe fairy world is a colourful pot pourri. Each fairy costume has been painstakingly designed to match the fairy’s unique personality – be that sexy and sultry, rotund and matronly or fun and impish. And the fairies stole our hearts. Petra Massey’s zip wire punching aerial antics have the charm of a Renaissance cherub. Bethan Langford as Leila exudes demure dimple-poking sweetness. The metal-clad, Wagneresque Queen of the Fairies, Catherine Wyn-Rogers, electrifies with a powerful performance embodying matriarchal warmth and strength. Samantha Price as Iolanthe brings her distinctive mezzo soprano and balletic moves to the titular role.

Catherine Wyn-Rogers, ENO Chorus, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller
Catherine Wyn-Rogers, ENO Chorus, ENO Iolanthe 2023 © Craig Fuller

 

Samantha Price in title role 2023 © Craig Fuller
Samantha Price in title role 2023 © Craig Fuller

All in all, Iolanthe is a splendid frothy confection that will be voraciously devoured by both adults and children alike.


Maxine Morse

Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.

Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.


UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON
Iolanthe at the English National Opera.
Samantha Price as Iolanthe and John Savournin as the Lord Chancellor in  Iolanthe in the  Cal McCrystal production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s operetta Iolanthe continuing the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the London Colosseum. The opening night for ENO Iolanthe is on the 5 of October  and then 12 performances up until the 25th of October.

 

 

ENO Peter Grimes Review – A Harrowing Thriller

Gwyn Hughes Jones as ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

 

The ENO’s Peter Grimes is not going to be a cosy night at the opera. You can see that in the sparse cantilevered set – dark and gloomy. This will be harrowing viewing.

In a small gossipy fishing village on the English East Coast we find the brow-beaten Peter Grimes (Gwyn Hughes Jones) standing trial for the death of his apprentice. Grimes protests it was an unfortunate accident and Swallow (Clive Bayley), the prosecuting lawyer, forcefully disputes his account much to the delight of the baying crowd. Reluctantly acquitted, Grimes is clearly guilty in the court of public opinion.

Peter Grimes, the impoverished fisherman, is the Borough’s scapegoat. Neither likeable or dislikeable, he melds into his grimy and grey surroundings. But he has dreams. Conventional, keeping up with the Joneses dreams, of a wife, a house, a happy life and money. This will buy him status and an escape from exclusion.

 

Unable to work alone or pay for adult labour, he must fly in the face of Swallow’s advice by finding another apprentice to repair nets and help haul fish.

 

Ellen Orford (Elizabeth Llewellyn) longs to marry Grimes. He is not a catch but probably the best that a lonely widow can do. She convinces the Borough that she will nurture and safeguard any child procured for Grimes from the workhouse.

Elizabeth Llewellyn makes a stunning debut as Ellen Orford in ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles
Elizabeth Llewellyn makes a stunning debut as Ellen Orford in ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

Grimes has spied a shoal of fish.  But a deadly storm is brewing. Grimes sees his chance as no other fishermen will be brave enough to net it. The boy is tired and terrified.

 

We can see this is not going to end well…

 

Elizabeth Llewellyn starts out scratchy and screechy, singing in the upper range of her register, mirroring her inner desperation. Her voice mellows into a powerful angst-ridden performance that propels us into her inner world of hopes and dreams that are constantly dashed like waves crashing on the shoreline.

 

Peter Grimes’s apprentice, Rudy Williams, with his animalistic hiding behaviours and mute writhing, perfectly conveys the sheer fright of being apprenticed to a potential murderer.

William Biletsky captures pure terror in his role as Peter Grimes's apprentice ©2023 Tom Bowles
Rudy Williams captures pure terror in his role as Peter Grimes’s apprentice ©2023 Tom Bowles

Set against the theme of social alienation is a Dickensian exploration into small town bigoted bloody mindedness. The hypocrisy of the village is laid bare.  The apothecary Ned Keene (Alex Otterburne) is not above supplying laudanum to the elderly Mrs Sedley (Anne-Marie Owens), a sleuthing Miss Marple who in turn, gleefully spreads unfounded gossip about Grimes in her drug fuelled haze.

 

Two pre-pubescent nieces (Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd) who hopscotch dance and carry their dolls are sexual fodder for the sleazy fisherman and Methodist preacher Bob Boles (John Findon).

Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd put on a magnetising performance with their robotic acting and crazed demeanour. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles
Cleo Lee-McGowan and Ava Dodd put on a magnetising performance with their robotic acting and crazed demeanour. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

Their Auntie, a pub landlord (Christine Rice) prowls round the stage in her fur coat and walking stick. Rice’s forceful vocals make her the embodiment of female power in this male centric society.  She is after all the purveyor of sex and alcohol.

Christine Rice with her manly attire is the embodiment of female power in this male dominated community. ©2023 Tom Bowles
Christine Rice with her manly attire is the embodiment of female power in this male dominated community. ©2023 Tom Bowles

The chorus scenes shine bright. Mob rule at its best. The movement director, Maxine Braham, does a fine job of creating spectacle after spectacle…the crowd clench fists, clasp hands and punch the air…or dance a surreal country jig reinforcing the notion that this tightly knit community will be seeking their next victim when they have dispensed with Grimes.

Director David Alden creates a thrilling psychological spectacle. On occasions, he takes things too far. Would even the most despicable drunk sexually intimidate an elderly woman?


Please check out our other reviews and if you are new to opera you may find these tips useful for your fist visit.


It is rare to find an opera where the lighting plays such a pivotal role in evoking a menacing atmosphere. Lighting revival designer, Gary James, takes us from bleak seashore to dim workhouse, to cosy pub, to evening street party and then to Grimes’s solo dramatic soliloquy with its strong, almost incandescent, light and black shadows.

 

Gwyn Hughes Jones role is challenging. It calls for a socially inept man who yearns to rise to life’s challenges but is held back by lack of self belief. Hughes Jones slips into this role with apparent ease, neither singing too forcefully or too timidly. His voice convincingly conveys the twists and turns of his enigmatic situation.

The ebullient crowd scenes are a special treat. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles
The ebullient crowd scenes are a special treat. ENO Peter Grimes ©2023 Tom Bowles

Martyn Brabbins is a master of orchestral control.  He sweeps the audience up in the stormy, frothing sea, harbour bustle, misery and hopelessness. The orchestra came on stage for much-deserved applause during the curtain call. Their performance was the tour de force of the night.

 

We prayed hard and fervently for Grimes to reappear with his workhouse apprentice…simply a misunderstanding. Or for him to heed Ellen Orford’s plea to “Come home out of this dreadful night”.  Engulfed by his feelings of unworthiness and hopelessness, he is swayed by the devilish suggestion from Captain Balstrode (Simon Bailey) to take his boat out far from shore and sink it.

 

Who will be the Borough’s next victim?


Maxine Morse

Maxine trained as an opera critic on ENO Response the opera critics training scheme sponsored by the English National Opera and mentored by Critics’ Circle. She is currently taking live performance reviewing courses at the City Lit and Harvard University.

Please get in touch if you would like her to review opera for your publication.


UNITED KINGDOM, LONDON, 18th September 2023
ENO Peter Grimes at the English National Opera.
Gwen Hughes Jones as Peter Grimes in the David Alden production of Benjamin Britten’s opera Peter Grimes opening the 2023 to 2024 season of the English National Opera at the Colosseum. The opening night is on the 21st of September and then 8 performances up until the 11th of October.

Budget London Red Bus Tour using Public Transport

London Red Bus Tour

Looking for a London Red Bus Tour and don’t want to pay through the nose for an overpriced tour? Have you thought of seeing London on a public bus? 

A one day bus pass for an adult costs £5.25 and you can hop on and hop off all day long. Some bus routes are better than others for touring London. I recommend numbers 9, 11 and 75.

Let’s start our series of budget London red bus tours with the number 9 route which passes iconic London sights like Kensington Palace, the Royal Albert Hall, Harrods, Hyde Park, Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square and Covent Garden. 

Photo credit: It’s No Game

Itinerary for the Number 9 London Red Bus Tour

The number 9 bus route can be seen on the Transport for London website. We are going to concentrate on the section from Kensington Palace to Covent Garden

London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route
London Red Bus Tour Number 9 Route

Buses in central London leave every few minutes so there’s no need to get hung up on bus arrival and departure times.

You can get off the bus whenever you want and then simply go back to the same bus stop when you are ready to resume your journey.

The best seats for this London Red Bus Tour are the top of the double decker at the front…otherwise choose a window seat with uninterrupted views.

1. Kensington Palace

Kensington Palace

Obviously, you’d be mad to miss Kensington Palace .  It was the birthplace of Queen Victoria and continues to be home to Royalty including Prince William and Princess Catherine. When Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were courting they had a cottage in the grounds.

The state rooms are open to the general public.  Kensington Palace’s forte lies in its display of court jewellery and costumes. There are beautiful clothing displays including Princess Diana’s much photographed dresses.

The controversial Princess Diana sculpture is the Sunken Garden which you can visit free of charge. You decide…does it do her justice?

The scones and cream in the cafe are particularly good and there is a nice outside courtyard area in which to enjoy them.

Kensington Palace: The King's Staircase
Kensington Palace: The King’s Staircase

 

Now its time to begin your budget London red bus tour adventure…board the Number 9 bus at Kensington Palace.

 

2. The Royal Albert Hall

 

The Royal Albert Hall

Our London Red Bus Tour goes past the Royal Albert Hall which is a famous concert space known for the annual classical music festival the Proms.

The Royal Albert Hall. Photo by Greg Fot
The Royal Albert Hall. Photo by Greg Fot

 

The Prince Albert Memorial

The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe 
The Royal Albert Memorial. Photo by Karen Roe

 

Facing the Royal Albert Hall, is the Prince Albert Memorial which Queen Victoria commissioned in memory of her husband Prince Albert with whom she had nine children.  It’s our equivalent of the Taj Mahal; a tribute to enduring love.

The Royal Music College

Behind the Royal Albert Hall you will find the Royal Music College with its exciting programme of low cost music recitals. You can find out about their current programme here.

3. Knightsbridge Station

Harrods

Our third stop is Knightsbridge where you will find the ultra exclusive Harrods department store. Nestled inside is a  shopping arcade of high-end brands, luxury designer handbags and a jaw dropping food hall.

Harrods food hall is just the place to pick up a sandwich, sausage roll, pork pie, quiche or any other portable delight to enjoy on your London red bus tour.

 

Harvey Nichols

Equally luxurious is the nearby Harvey Nichols department store with its focus on fashion and premium makeup.

Return to the bus stop to continue your budget London red bus tour as we are now going to chill out in London’s best known park.

 

4. Hyde Park Corner Station

Hyde Park

Hyde Park is the largest London Royal park.  It has two outdoor cafes overlooking a man-made lake and is dotted with hire by the hour deckchairs.

The more energetic may enjoy a boating trip or an outdoor swim.

Hyde Park is just the place to decompress. Take a stroll through the Rose Garden or have an ice cream in the Italianate garden.

The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations
The Rose Garden at Hyde Park Corner. Photo by Kotomi Creations
Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming
Relaxing in Hyde Park. Photo by Duncan Cumming

Get back on the bus as our next stop will involve art, more royal palaces and afternoon teas.

5. Green Park

 

Park Lane

The bus crosses the end of Park Lane, home to luxury 5 star hotels including the Dorchester, the Four Seasons and the London Hilton. Which has the most luxurious foyer? You decide.

 

The Wellington Arch and Green Park

On the right, you will see the Wellington Arch, Green Park and the walls of Buckingham Palace.

 

Buckingham Palace

You can get off the bus here for Buckingham Palace which is a 10 minute walk through Green Park.

The exterior of Buckingham Palace
The exterior of Buckingham Palace

 

The Ritz

Look out for the world famous Ritz Hotel which has hosted celebrities and royalty for decades. Afternoon Tea is a spectacular affair but it will be necessary to book well in advance and adhere to their strict dress code.

The Ritz
The Ritz

 


We have a useful blog post on how to have a day out at Buckingham Palace and the Ritz. We include exploring the St James’s area.


 

The Wolseley

You are now on my favourite street, Piccadilly. It  has the Wolseley with its beautiful monochrome interior and one of the best afternoon teas in London (a bargain compared with the adjacent Ritz).

Banana Split at the Wolseley - probably the best dessert in London.
Banana Split at the Wolseley – probably the best dessert in London.

It is almost worth visiting the Wolseley just to eat their banana split.

The Royal Academy

 

The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition
The Royal Academy famous for its Summer Exhibition

On the left you will see the Royal Academy which is home to the celebrated Summer Exhibition. Any artist can submit a piece of work for consideration…you will see the most bizarre ideas.

We reviewed Loneliness of the Soul  by the controversial Royal Academician, Tracy Emin. This will give you a taste of what to expect.

The Royal Academy has free galleries and loos…the outdoor cafe with its tables and umbrellas is a nice place to sip cappuccino away from the bustle of Piccadilly.

 

The Burlington Arcade

Next door to the Royal Academy is the Burlington Arcade an indoor shopping street with luxury brands and a distinctive period feel.

 

Fortnum & Mason

Opposite the Royal Academy is Fortnum & Mason, the Queen’s Grocer. Pay a visit to see its beautiful food displays. Tourists beat a path here for its legendary loose tea and quality preserves.

No need to buy groceries, some say that afternoon tea at Fortnum’s is the best in London.

Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.
Fortnum & Mason with its fabulous window displays and artistically arranged food.

You may enjoy our post on Where to buy tea in London and you can get an idea of what they sell from our post on a Fortnum and Mason Hamper for for a Londoner.


 

Hatchards

If you walk up Piccadilly, past Fortnums,  you will see the Royal book seller Hatchards. It has an old fashioned, very British  style and service making it a fascinating place to browse.

Hatchard's book store which supplies Royalty
Hatchard’s book store which supplies Royalty

There are a couple of notable book sellers in Piccadilly including Waterstone’s which is the biggest book store in Europe with 8 miles of books.


St James’s Palace

St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer
St James’s Palace the London home of the King and Queen. Photo by James Stringer

 

Behind Fortnums and Hatchards you will find Jermyn Street with its small artisan shops selling everything from cheese to toiletries, men’s clothing and chocolates.

From here you can walk to St James’s Palace and Clarence House, the London Residence of King Charles III and Queen Camilla.

 

5. Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.
Piccadilly Circus and the Statue of Eros.

 

Piccadilly Circus

Piccadilly Circus  is London’s equivalent of New York’s Times Square.

If I am honest, it’s not my thing not least because it is crowded with young people enjoying raucous street entertainment.

Visit to take souvenir photos of the Eros Statue, Piccadilly Circus and the LED advertising which is especially spectacular at dusk.

If you are one of the gilded youth,  you maybe able to pick up the man or woman of your dreams by sitting on the steps of the Eros Statue.

 

The Criterion Theatre and the Criterion Restaurant

The charming Criterion Theatre  with its distinctive 20’s vibe faces the Eros statue.

Next door, you’ll find the preserved gold mosaic interior of the former  Criterion Restaurant .  Lately, it has gone downmarket and is now a chain Indian restaurant.  Not all progress is improvement.

Brasserie Zedel

If you are hungry, I can recommend a hidden gem.  Brasserie Zedel  with its well priced set menus is a basement restaurant on the Regent’s Street Side of Piccadilly Circus. It looks like a small cafe above ground and nothing alerts you to its gleaming Gallic interior and crystal chandelier.

The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie Zedel
The basement restaurant foyer of Brasserie Zedel
The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel
The plush French brasserie styled interior of Brasserie Zedel

We have produced a detailed review of the Brasserie Zedel set menus.


At Brasserie Zedel you will also find the Art Deco American Bar which serves classic cocktails and the vibrant red and black Crazy Coqs night club.

The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel
The Crazy Coqs night club at Brasserie Zedel

 

Regent’s Street

Regent’s Street is less crowded than Oxford Circus with more style and class. It contains many mid priced stores like Zara and H&M alongside luxury brands.

At the top of Regent’s Street, you will find Liberty with its Revival Tudor frontage constructed from the timbers of three ancient battle ships.

Now return to Piccadilly Circus and get comfy on the bus as we are heading to a famous sight…one that screams London.

 

6. Trafagar Square

The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light
The famous bronze lions at Trafalgar Square Photo by Alan Light

 

Trafalgar Square

This historic square was designed by John Nash to commemorate the Battle of  Trafalgar. It is now a popular meeting point and site for political demonstrations. Look out for the fourth plinth which is a showcase contemporary art.

The National Gallery

At the north end of the square you will see the National Gallery with its free public exhibitions containing the works of almost every painter of any note from Rembrandt  to the Impressionists.

 

The National Gallery home to important works of art.
The National Gallery home to important works of art.

The National Portrait Gallery

Around the corner from the National Gallery is the newly refurbished National Portrait Gallery. This used to be a dusty mausoleum of an art gallery until they hired Sir Roy Strong as its flamboyant and creative director. He breathed a new life into its exhibitions and you will see all sorts of work that push the boundaries of what’s possible in portrait painting.

 

The London Coliseum

Opposite the National Portrait Gallery in Saint Martin’s Lane, you will find the London Coliseum which is home to the English National Opera.

The ENO is famed for its inclusivity with seats starting at £10.  There are some fantastic offers for new opera goers,  school children and the under 35s.

All of its operas are sung in English. Note the the opera season here is from Autumn to Spring.

7. Southampton Street/Covent Garden

Covent Garden Market

Now you are probably on your knees with exhaustion, so I would recommend making Covent Garden your final stop. This used to be a fruit and vegetable market but now it has a lively street market selling art, crafts and London souvenirs.

Covent Garden Street Performers

A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.
A Covent Garden Street Performer on her lunch break.

Covent Garden is just the place for a coffee, drink or ice cream while watching street performers. Last time I was in Covent Garden I stumbled upon the ice cream bar Milk Train. Their sundaes looked amazing. There were queues round the block so clearly they tasted amazing too.

Covent Garden Restaurants

Notable restaurants here are the historic Rules which specialises in British cuisine like pies and puddings and Balthazar – a stylish French restaurant.

Regular opera goers also recommend Le Garrick and Frenchie for their reasonably priced pre opera menus.

The Royal Opera House

The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House

A grand finale for your could be a trip to the opera. You can have the experience of a lifetime by visiting the Royal Opera House where you will hear world class performers singing opera in glorious burgundy velvet surroundings.

Concluding our London Red Bus Tour

Don’t you think that it is amazing what you can see for the cost of a £5.25 one day bus pass?  If you take this tour as a single journey without leaving the bus it will cost £1.75. You can pay by Oystercard or credit card.  If you have travelled in by tube, your budget London red bus tour will be part of your capped daily spend, therefore it may cost you no extra.

 

Attending Opera for the First Time- Top Tips for a Perfect Night

Attending opera for the first time

There’s nothing quite like attending the opera for the first time in London.  I often take my friends who are opera virgins who invariably ask the same questions about how to prepare, what to expect, what to wear and how to behave…let’s see if I can answer them.

London Opera Houses

In London we have two opera houses, the London Coliseum and the Royal Opera House.

The London Coliseum

The Coliseum is a  beautiful Frank Matcham designed theatre. It is swathed in red velvet with ornate stucco ceilings and statues at every turn. You will find it in St Martin’s Lane near Trafalgar Square. It is home to the English National Opera. As the name may suggest, all of its performances are sung in English so no need to lose the plot. The ticket prices are friendly.  Many are priced at under £20 and there are fabulous deals for young people and new opera goers. Recently, I had one of the cheapest seats in the house which was £10 in the balcony and I had a very good view of the stage and subtitles.

The Royal Opera House

The Royal Opera House is one of the most chic and glamorous venues in town.  It is famous for its multimillion pound productions, world class singers and fabulous sets. Each opera is sung in its original language. A seat at the front of the stalls will set you back about £200. Many performances are booked up months in advance. In the amphitheatre, on the fifth floor, there are more affordable seats.  The cheapest seats are dotted about on the upper floors and are standing only You may also be able to find a cheap seat in the amphitheatre side slips.

The Royal Opera House
The Royal Opera House

Dress Elegantly for a Night at the London Opera

Going to the London opera is one the most memorable experiences you will have. People go to be seen. So make an occasion of it and put on your most glamorous outfit.

I see women visiting the London opera wearing sequins, gold and silver embellished knitwear, silk scarves, costume jewellery, Chanel jackets, cocktail dresses, velvet, diamante, diamante and diamante.

People make correspondingly more effort with their attire in the stalls and boxes which are the more expensive seats. Arguably the opera goers at the Royal Opera House make more effort (but this is controversial!).

London is an inclusive place and you will see a lot of young people in ripped jeans and street wear. But if you dress down for the London opera you may feel a bit out of place.

Prepare for cold, drizzly London weather when you leave the venue in winter. Bring hats, scarves and thick coats. Most people take public transport home.

Dress elegantly when attending opera for the first time.
Dress elegantly when attending opera for the first time.

Read the Plot Synopsis

Read the plot synopsis on the London opera house website before you arrive. You will get much more from the opera if you know in advance what happens. Specifically, make a mental note of how many acts there are and when and how long each interval is. Some operas are five hours long! If there are several short acts, the director may ask the audience to remain seated for a 5 minute set change.

If you would like to know more details about the production, including the careers of individual artists, buy a programme. This is also a good way to support London opera.

If time and enthusiasm permit, use You Tube to research any famous arias or pieces in your opera like Brindisi in Verdi’s La Traviata. Then you will instantly recognise these special moments and the raucous applause following them.

Research the opera in advance.
Research the opera in advance.

Get to the London Opera Early

Part of the fun of a night at the London opera is to soak up the atmosphere. I get there shortly after the doors open which means that I can collect my ticket before the queues form. I then go to the bar.

Getting there early means you will have time to photograph the stunning interiors before people arrive.

This is a wonderful opportunity for people watching…you will see politicians, celebrities and swathes of London society especially on press night.

The Royal Opera House is magnificent. It has been enhanced by a recent restoration.  You could spend your pre-show time taking the escalators between the different floors and checking out the modern bars, sumptuous restaurants and costume displays exhibited in glass cases which line the walls.

Soak up the atmosphere by having a coffee or a drink before the performance
Soak up the atmosphere by having a coffee or a drink before the performance

Use the Cloakroom

Like almost all London theatres, there isn’t much leg room in either of our main opera houses. If you leave your coat and extra bags on the floor, latecomers will be clambering over both you and your prized possessions. Park your belongings in the cloakroom before the opera starts. It’s considered polite to stand as people pass you in the row. Don’t be the rude person who stays seated and expects people to clamber over them.

Use the cloakroom or put your coat under your seat.
Use the cloakroom or put your coat under your seat.

Be on Time for your First Opera

The curtain goes up exactly on schedule. If you are late, you may not be allowed to gain entry until a suitable break in the performance. The ushers may also move you to a different and inferior seat to that shown on your ticket until there is an interval. You will hear a bell ringing at intervals warning you of the need to get to your seats. It is better to have a meal or a sandwich at the venue than risk being late by eating in a local restaurant and rushing.

Turn off Your Phone

Double check and triple check that you have turned off your mobile phone…and then check again. Operas are sung without any amplification, with the orchestra playing under the singer’s voice. This means that the slightest noise can be heard even the vibrations of a phone set to silent

If a phone rings the whole audience will as one, irately mutter under their breath.

Don’t think you can take a sneeky peak at your phone while burying it in your handbag. Lighted screen glow like a beacon in the darkened auditorium and you’ll be seen by everyone, both behind and above you! A lighted phone will not only risk the ire of those around you but it will command the attention of an usher who will whisper in your ear to turn it off…very embarrassing.

Turn your phone completely off before the opera starts
Turn your phone completely off before the opera starts

Exchange Pleasantries

You will be sitting in close quarters with people on either side, so acknowledge your neighbour and exchange a few pleasantries, this way they will be helpful and patient when you need support leaving your seat, cough involuntarily, or require them to stand as you arrive after the interval. These conversations are usually quite dull, along the lines of “Have you seen this opera before?”, “I love this building!”, “I am keen to hear the soprano.”

Acknowledge your neighbours
Acknowledge your neighbours

Numbered Opera Seats
Numbered Opera Seats

This year I attended a brilliant Gilbert and Sullivan  Opera Guided Walking Tour put on by the ENO which you may enjoy reading about.


Carry Opera Glasses and Cough Sweets

Opera glasses are a must if you are in the back of the dress circle, upper circle or amphitheatre (Royal Opera House) and balcony (London Coliseum). This will allow you to see facial expressions, costumes and set details.

A few cough sweets, paracetamol and tissues are useful emergency items. If you find yourself in the middle of a row, you are not going to be able to leave your seat if you have a coughing fit or a headache. This has happened to me on a few occasions when I have had coughing fits that have come from nowhere and lasted agonising minutes,

Operas are a lesson in sitting still in a sphinx like pose.

 

 

Check the Surtitles Every Few Seconds

As a novice opera goer you will be reliant on the subtitles so make sure that you have purchased a ticket with a clear view of the surtitle screen (these are like film subtitles but are on a screen above the stage).  During the opera, get into a rhythm of quickly glancing up at the surtitles. They give you the English translation of the performance and are shown even for performances that are sung in English. Then move your eyes down to focus on the stage. That way you will know what is being sung without missing any of the action.

Understand the plot by reading the surtitles
Understand the plot by reading the surtitles


If you are enjoying this post on the attending opera for the first time you may want to read our opera reviews.


Move Fast at the Interval

If you need to use the rest room at the interval, leave your seat as soon as the safety curtain goes down, as within minutes a large queue will form.

The same is true if you are buying interval drinks, be the first at the bar, or better still order your drinks before the performance and they will be waiting for you.

Pre-order your interval drinks
Pre-order your interval drinks

Stay for the Curtain Call

The curtain call is a choreographed spectacle. It is the only occasion at the London opera when you can photograph or video the performers. As the last scene ends, switch your phone on, so that it is ready for action and zoom in. Stand up for the ovation and hold the camera above the heads of those in front of you.

You are encouraged to share the curtain call on social media.

The curtain call is a lot of fun. The leading ladies are given extravagant bouquets, the crowd always booes the villain which he (and it usually is a he) finds amusing, each singer takes a bow, or a curtesy, in keeping with their on-stage character and at times you will see not only the orchestra conductor, but the director and choreographer. This is especially true on Press Night which is usually the opening night of any performance. I was thrilled when Jonathan Miller appeared after a performance of the Barber of Seville at the Coliseum.

Photograph, or video, the curtain call and share on social media
Photograph, or video, the curtain call and share on social media

Read our latest opera review on Peter Grimes which started the ENO 2023 opera season in style,


To Get the most out of your First Visit to the Opera Read your Programme

Make use of your tube journey home to read your programme or plot synopsis – research the careers of the cast, the conductor and the director.

And the next morning, do one of two things, check the opera reviews to see if you agreed with the critics, or better still, book your next London opera.